Watch how to create the Gilded Patchwork Bracelet by Fusion Beads

[Lindsay] – Hi, welcome to Fusion Beads. I’m Lindsay Burke. Today we’re gonna be making
the Gilded Patchwork Bracelet. This bracelet is made using one of my favorite techniques, bead looming. It’s created in little sections,
like a patchwork quilt, and then finished with some
chain and a lobster claw, making it a great, easy gift to give. Okay, let’s take a look at the products used to make this bracelet. (cheerful music) To make this bracelet, I’m gonna be using size 11 Delica seed beads. I’m using one of our exclusive
Fusion Beads mini palettes in the Heritage colorway. The palette includes five colors, in Transparent Pale Aqua
Mist, Luminous Warm Almond, Luminous Dusky Blue,
Matte Opaque Glaze Gray, Matte Opaque Glaze Rainbow Pistachio. Then I’m also using size 11
Semi Matte Galvanized Honey Gold and size 11 Matte 24 Karat
Gold Plated Delica beads. These two gold beads will add
a metallic pop to my design. To finish it, I’m going to be using three inches of the 4.5
millimeter cable chain, a lobster claw clasp, two base metal side end tubes by Miyuki, two gold plated jump rings, clear FireLine, in six pound, and I’ve already wound it on a bobbin. And then for my tools I’ll
be using size 11 needle, my Xuron thread and fiber scissors, and of course my beading loom. I’m using the Ricks beading loom today, but you can use any loom that
you feel comfortable with. You can find all of the
links for these products in the description below. Okay, let’s get started
making the bracelet. I’ve got my loom all set up. I’ve gone ahead and done 12 warp threads. I’m gonna have 11 rows of beads in here, so I’m gonna need one more warp
thread than I need my beads, so I’ve got 12 warp threads, and I’m using the Ricks beading loom here. You can use any loom that
you’ve got, that you prefer, and you wanna check your
manufacturer’s instructions for setting it up. For the Ricks loom, we have another video that you can refer to on how to set it up. Here I’ve got a warp separator. This is just the way
the Ricks loom starts. If you lose your warp separator
that comes with the loom, you can go ahead and use
your standard business card. And I’ve got that started here. I’ve also got my needle,
already threaded with my thread, and attached and ready to go. As you can see I’ve got
my pattern over here, and this piece, being it’s
the Gilded Patchwork Bracelet, the way I designed it is I’ve made little squares or rectangles
of different patterns, as you can see, kinda
going through the pattern. I’m gonna work from the bottom up. I’ve also, at the very
end, if you can see, just have several rows with no pattern. This is because the loom can be set up for the correct length, but if you need to add
extra rows in my pattern, I’ve got it here so we
can just add a whole row of the blue if we need to. So I’m gonna start, I’ve
started by setting up the loom to make a 5 1/2 inch piece of loomwork. We’re gonna start at the
bottom of our graph paper. And what I like to do is either cross off the line that I’m working on, or I’m gonna use a Post-it note to mark which line I’m working on next, so I don’t lose my place. Here, okay? So, since I’ve got 11 beads going across, it looks like to pick up
11 of the gray beads first. Okay, and then, with the loom, you’re gonna come up
underneath your warp threads, and you’re gonna make sure to place one bead in between each
of the warp threads. And I like to use my
finger underneath here, on my left hand, to support them, keeping them in place in between
each of those warp threads. And then I use my thumb to
kinda pinch that thread down, so the beads really pop up. To do loomwork, you wanna
make sure that you’re trapping your beads with the weft thread, the thread going back and forth, in between your warp threads. So I’ve got my needle here. I’m gonna go ahead and pull, and I’m gonna turn right
back around with my needle, my beads are all popped
up at the end here, and I’m gonna go back through my beads, making sure to go over my warp threads. So again, I’m trapping the beads
in between the warp threads with my weft thread. And then I just go ahead and pull my beads, or my thread,
all the way through. And pull tight. And butt it down to your
warp thread separator, or business card. You can see that they all stay on. Looming is a great technique,
because it goes fast. You’re adding 11 beads at
a time, which is great, so not one bead at a time,
you’re doing all 11 across. So now that I’m done with that last row, I went ahead and moved my Post-it note up. Again, if the Post-it
note doesn’t work for you, you can cross it off, a lot of people like to use a pen and just mark off their
rows so they know exactly which row they’re on. Okay, so adding another 11 gray. Make sure that I have enough here. All 11. Okay, come up, again going
underneath the warp threads, coming up in between,
they pop right in there. Use my left finger for support, my thumb is pushing down
on those warp threads to help pop those beads up
in between the warp threads. Bring my needle through, and
bring it back towards the left, again trapping those beads right in between the warp threads. And then go ahead and pull
my thread nice and tight. All the way through. Okay. Now, for the Ricks beading loom, the way you wanna use
your warp separator is, now that I’ve got a couple rows on, I can go ahead and remove this and slide my beads down to the bottom, and this is gonna be
a little bit different for every loom so again, make sure that you check
how your manufacturer suggests setting up your loom. So I’ve got the first two rows done here. And again, moving it up on my graph. I’m gonna go ahead and do one gray, four of the dark blue, one gray, and then four of the almond, and one more gray. And then again come up underneath. Put all those beads right in between each of the warp threads. Use my thumb to make
sure that those threads are nice pushed in there. Come back through with my needle. And back through. Okay, a couple things I wanna point out is that I am using a
size 11 beading needle. They do make, and we do carry, loom needles, that are quite
a bit longer than mine. I prefer working with a shorter needle for this width of beadwork here. If I’m working with something wider, I’m gonna wanna use the loom needle that probably is about three inches long. The other thing that I wanted to point out is that this graph paper
is available for you in our instructions online, and you can go ahead and
print this out at home. Okay. So now I’ve done that row, the third row. And again move my Post-it note up. And I know I need to
work on this row next. So, one gray, one blue, two of this green pistachio color, one more blue, another gray, again the almond, and then two of the light blue, almond, and gray. And then I come up
underneath the warp threads, bring my needle through,
pass it back through, over the warp threads, making
sure to trap them in there, and then pull my thread through. And you can see this pattern is coming together really nicely. And pull that nice and tight. See how fast that’s coming? We’re following the pattern. What I wanna is go ahead and
keep following my pattern, and then I’ll show you
how to end this off. (peaceful music) (lively music) Okay, as you can see I’ve gone this far, I’ve done several rows. And now, working with a Ricks loom, I wanted to give you a tip. Your loom might be a little bit different, but for the Ricks loom, the
genius, the beauty of this is that there’s two warp threads that you need to work in at the end versus all 12 warp threads. So in order to make this happen, the magic at the end, it is recommended that you actually pull all of these rows down, so as you saw before,
they were nice and even, and now I’m just bringing
’em down as tight as I can, so bringing my beads down, as you can see. Let me show you a little gap that I got. You see how much gap there is? I’m bringing it down quite
a bit, nice and tight, and that’s going to help us at the end when we pull it off of the loom. I’ll show you that magic in a little bit. So now I’ve got all of
this nice and tight. And you’ll see me do this throughout. I’ll do a few more rows,
and I’ll pull down again, few more rows, and pull down again. Okay? All right. Now that I’ve done that, I can go ahead and continue beading. (lively music) (cheerful music) – Okay, I’m getting close to
the end of my beadwork here. You can see that I am about two, four, seven rows away from the end, according to my pattern. I don’t know if I’ll make it all the way and be able to fit all of the rows here, but I’ll try. This is why I like to
end a lot of my patterns with stripes like this that don’t really have a strong pattern that I need to follow. That way that I can eliminate a row or add rows if I need to. Okay, at this point, I’ve only got a little bit of thread left, which is not going to finish my beadwork. So I’m gonna go ahead and show you how to work in a new thread and end this one off. First off I wanna again
make sure all my beads are brought down and tight, so I’m gonna do that one more time here, all the way through. They’re lookin’ pretty tight to me. Okay. All right, and then I’m gonna
go ahead and take my needle, and all I’m gonna do is pass back through the last one, two, maybe three rows. With my thread. Going all the way through, trying to stay on top of the
warp threads if possible. Okay. So move on through the second row back, and then I’m gonna go back through the next row down. And maybe one more. Okay, and that’s it. And I can, when it’s all done, warp the rest of this thread in in a figure eight pattern, looping back over other threads so that you are really cinching
and reinforcing this thread, tying it off. Okay, now I’m gonna go ahead
and take my needle off. And I’ve got a new thread, again, my needle is on a new thread, and I’m gonna start where
we ended coming out, so I’m gonna go, again,
follow it back this way on the fourth row, to
the right on the third, to the left on my second. Okay, so now I’ve got my
needle with my thread on it, and I’m gonna start coming in one back, one row back from where I came out of. So I’m just gonna start right here, go in, go into the left, make sure I have a little bit of tail, skip up to the next row, so working towards the
end where I need to start adding my rows again, and then back through that
last row, one more time, again trying to keep the needle above the warp threads if possible. Okay, and now I’ll continue
on with my pattern. Got 11, so these are my solid stripes. And, as you get to the
end of your pattern, with the Ricks, it’s a
little bit more difficult to get into this tight space because of the warp rod here, so you just need to be patient, and make sure that you’ve got
all of your beads popping up on the top of the warp threads. Pull through. One more of that pistachio color, 11 of ’em. Again, this is probably the
most difficult part because those warp threads want to come apart, so, be patient, make sure that your beads are all coming up in
between the warp threads there. I’m passing that needle
over the warp threads. And be patient, like I said, going through each bead
carefully, one at a time, making sure they’re all in there. Whoops, it looks like I have
one too many beads here. Yep, one too many beads. Okay, we’ll try that again. So this pattern is kind of fun, ’cause when I build it, when I create it, I really think of it as
little squares or rectangles, so, as you saw, I had an arrow, I had some stripes, I
had some little boxes. So I’m really creating by
section when I design it. Okay. 11 of the gray. And making sure to pull those beads down. Go under. And again, taking your time
to push all of those beads up in between those warp threads. Going over the warp
threads with your needle. There we go. Okay, I don’t think I’m gonna get any more beads in this one. Think I might be able to, let me see if I can pull it down just a little bit more and see if we can fit one more in there. If not, we might need to call it good. Yup, we might need to call that one good, I think we are as close to that rod as we’re gonna get. It’s gonna be too difficult
to get those beads in there. Okay. So let me show you how
to end off this thread, and the magic of the Ricks beading loom>I’m gonna move my pattern aside. Okay, so when we’re done, like I said, we’ve got all of our beads kind of wobbly and wrinkly from
us pulling it down, and we are gonna take the beadwork off of our warp rod, just by pulling off the little stoppers and pulling the warp rod off. Gonna set that aside. You can see these loops right here are still there from the warp rod. So, what I need to do is roll in between my
fingers the beadwork, to kinda cinch up the
loops that are there. Now normally I would
also take off this side, and show you that, but all the
threads would get in the way, so I’m just gonna show you
the one side right now. So I just kind of roll
and massage the beadwork, and you can see how those loops are starting to disappear already. Kinda cool, huh? All right, and I’m just
working from the center out ’cause we have to do the
same on the other side. And you can see right now, my beadwork’s starting to lay flat. My beads are side by side, instead of down here you can see that they’re all wobbly and not laying flat, and my loops are disappearing. Isn’t that cool? Okay. So I’m gonna take this off the
loom completely on this side, massage this side, and I’ll be right back to show you how to finish up the rest. Okay, as you can see, I’ve
gone ahead and massaged out the whole bracelet. All the loops on this
side have disappeared, and same with this side. I’ve still got my little
pegs attached on this side, so my threads don’t get tangled. I’ll be working those in at the end. Right now, this was our last thread, our working thread that
we were working with, so we’re gonna want to weave
this thread in and down through the beadwork to tie it off. So let me show you that. So it’s coming out of this row. I’m gonna wanna go in the next row down. Try to go all the way across. Pull tight. And then I’m gonna go one
more time through that last, very last row, just to reinforce it. This is where our Miyuki
end bar is going to be, so we wanna make sure that
that’s nice and strong. Okay. Now I’m just gonna go ahead and weave down through several rows. And back to the third row down. Again, down another, and you can see these
other ends that we had, this was our ending
and start of new thread that we had in there. We’ll also work those in. And keep going down. And I like to go up one
more time every so often, just so I’m making a loop with my thread, so it’s going over itself. Okay, and then back through. And that should be just fine. Okay, and then with my
Xuron thread scissors, and I go ahead and make sure
that I get a nice, close cut. Okay. Then I’m gonna do the same
with all of my other threads. So this was the threads that
were the beginning and end of the new piece of thread. So I’ll work those in. We’ve already worked ’em in a little bit, so it shouldn’t be too many rows. Then on the other side,
we’ll do the same thing. I’ve got my two warp threads,
and then my start thread, that I need to work in here as well. Okay, I’m gonna go ahead
and take care of that, and then I’ll be right
back to show you how to end and add the clasp. Okay, as you can see, I’ve
worked in all of my threads, and I’m left with just the beadwork here. I have about, let’s see
how much beadwork we have. Just about 5 1/4 inches
of beadwork right there. This will not fit around a wrist as is, unless you’ve got a really tiny wrist, so what I like to do is add chain and a lobster claw to the end of this, and that’s gonna make it adjustable and be great for gift giving or anything, so you don’t have to know
the wearer’s wrist size. Okay, so, we’re gonna be
using the Miyuki slide ends. These are the 15 millimeter,
and they fit perfectly with 11 size 11 Delicas. Right there, you can
see how it matches up. Okay, so let’s take a
look at this slide end. It’s got two tabs, one on each side, and then the loop. And then there’s also a slit right here where the beads slide in. So to use this, you want
to fold this tab down. So we’re gonna use our
chain nose pliers here. Just grab the tab, and go
ahead and bend it down. It moves pretty easily there. Just close it up. Okay. And then you’ve got one side open. I’m gonna go ahead and take
that last row of beadwork and slide it right in. So that last row gets hidden, so if it’s important to your pattern, you’re gonna wanna make sure
that you have an extra row in your pattern if you need, okay? You can see how nicely
that fits right there. And then we’re gonna go
ahead and close this tab the same way, using our chain nose pliers and just bending it down. I like to just push on it a little bit. I don’t wanna break any of my beads. And there we go, it’s on
there, nice and strong, you can see I can pull on
it, it’s not gonna come off. Okay? Okay. So, to attach the other side, you’re gonna do exactly the same thing. Fold that tab down, slide the other end in, and as you can see in this pattern, this was my start, and this
is a perfect little rectangle, and I added that extra row of
gray right at the beginning knowing that that one was gonna be hidden. So that’s what I’m talking about, when you’re designing your pattern, make sure you know that that
last row is gonna be hidden on both sides if you’re gonna
be using the Miyuki end bars. Okay, and then again, just
fold that other tab down. There’s no need for glue or anything. And that’s secure, there you go. Then we’re gonna need to add the chain and the lobster claw to both sides. Okay, to attach our jump rings, I’m gonna need two chain nose pliers. I’m gonna pick up the jump ring, grab one side of my jump ring with one pair of chain nose, and another chain nose
grabs the other side, and then I just rotate to open. Okay, grab the Miyuki end, the loop, put the jump ring in there. Then I’m gonna pick up my clasp, attach the clasp, and then
close the jump ring up, going back and forth. You can see that the edges are wiggling, and you kinda heard that click sound, that means those two
edges of the jump ring are rubbing up against each other and are nice and tight, no space there. Okay, we’re gonna do the
same for the other side. So again, picking up the jump ring. Your other pair of chain nose. Rotate the one side towards you. Attach to the Miyuki end, and
then the chain of your choice. And I cut this chain about three inches, so it’ll give me a good range for anybody with a six inch
to an eight inch wrist. Okay, and there you have
it, that’s attached. And there you have your
Gilded Patchwork Bracelet. You can find all the supplies for this at, as well as other inspiration
projects and techniques. (cheerful music)