Skateboard Applique: Applique Quilt Tutorial for Beginners with Rob Appell of Mansewing


Hey everybody. It’s Rob over at Man Sewing.
And I know you’ve already checked out the awesome pieced skateboard quilt I was able
to do with Jenny Doan from MSQC. And I was showing off when I was there. And I made these
really cool little applique skateboards and I’m going to teach you today how to make
these. Now these ones are three dimensional so I could play with them. So you can see
the grip tape on the top side and actually the design and the hardware on the bottom
side. But I’m going to teach you how to do these as actually appliques today. Now let me slide these just slightly out of
the way because I want to run you through some of the supplies you’re going to need.
Let’s start with the shiny objects today. Shiny objects: I’m using an 18 millimeter
rotary cutter. I’m going to show you how to cut your appliques with that. I’m using
some shiny little applique scissors, possibly for the small pieces. I’ve got a shiny stiletto.
This is good for moving things around. Shiny tweezers. Those are good for moving and picking
up those small pieces. Not so shiny sharpie. We’re going to probably use a big rotary
cutter. And then the other thing we’ve got for you is the art department over at Man
Sewing, thank you again guys, you’re awesome. Have made all of you free download templates.
And so today as I’m designing this we’re going to start with a 15 inch board, but we
also have a 12 inch board also. So I want to talk a little bit about the boards
and the grip tape before we roll into the hardware. Yes, pun intended. Ok, so with that,
like I said, I’m going to use the 15 inch so I’m just going to set this on my light
table. And then I’m going to show you the grip tape are two individual pieces. And these
holes will be cut out. That’s what looks like where the screws came through the top
of the board. Ok? And then we’ve got this hardware page and we’re going to come back
to the hardware page and just talk about what we’re using each piece for. But I want to
let you know that you can do this with all of your scraps and basically this is just
a little stash burner. So I don’t have a supply list for fabric other than a pile of
cool stuff. But I’m going to tell you what colors to be using as we work through the
hardware page, ok? So I’m just going to set this aside for
a moment as well. As we get ready, all skaters look at the top of the deck first. Of course
we buy our boards based on the design on the bottom but we’ve got to get our grip tape
on first so that we can actually put the hardware through it. We’ve got to make the board
before we can make the tape though. So join me over here at my cool light table
if you will. And what I’m going to do, the boards are made in two pieces so they fit
on an 8 ½ by 11 printer sheet for you. Ok? So the first part I’m going to do is I’m
going to make sure that I have at least 15 inches across my paper. And it’s 17 inch
paper so I know that I do. And then I’m just going to simply trace the first portion,
and what’s so funny here is you’re going to see how caffeinated the creativity is around
here as my little hand get so shaky with these little markers. As I come up and around. Now
there’s a dotted line that runs across. This is kind of the joining section. So I’m
just going to do this but I’m going to remember that I’ve got to kind of put an X through
it so I remind my, my brain that I don’t want to cut that line. Ok? That line is going
to be where I join the second half. And I’m going to try to push this paper down a little
bit so you can see through the light table. But if not I’m show you as it finishes off
here. And now I’m just going to come up and do the rest of that board. Ooop. Do, do,
daa, doo. Maybe I better lay off on the coffee before I keep trying to trace this stuff.
My goodness. I love that, I love the coffee though. Ok, so now that I’ve got that cut
out, I’m going to get ready to apply it to the back side of my fabric. The fusible
I love to use is called Heat ‘N Bond feather light. Feather light is incredibly easy to
quilt through because it’s so light weight. Very similar to the Wonder Under but it’s
a solid layer of fuse instead of a spun bond fuse. And so what we’re going to look at is two
to three seconds with a dry iron. We’re not going to have any steam in our iron for
this. And what I’m going to do is I’ve chosen a really cool piece of fabric that
looks just like wood. So the top of the boards, often the wood or the lumber shows through
that the board is made from. So I’m going to take that and I’m going to flip it over
because fusible web. And I’m sorry I forgot to point this out too, didn’t I? When we’re
tracing on fusible web, in case this is your first time, you trace on the paper side. The
shiny glue sticky side is what’s going to be the bond for us. So we don’t to draw
on that, that glue side. Now I’m going to go ahead and just set this here. And when
I’m bonding my fuse for applique I kind of do a sliding motion, trying to get it,
like I said, about two seconds of a dry iron. And each section as I go. One of the things
I’ve learned is if you over-iron it, the paper will start to release early, and the
paper is what makes it so easy to cut. Ok? And now, like I said, I cut all, a lot, I
was going to say all the time, but I cut most of the time with my 18 millimeter cutter.
Now we’ve been taught a rotary cutter works this way, right? It’s an extension of our
arm. Our wrist is locked. And we cut kind of out of our holster, right? We cut this
way. But this small cutter is for applique is designed to be held like a pen, just like
this. And so what I’m going to do is really stop looking at the camera. And I’m going
to focus on what I am doing. I want to keep all my fingers on my left hand. I’m going
to retract the cutter and I’m going to walk this bad boy in here and just start to go
around. Now the benefits of cutting this way with a rotary cutter is you might be shaky
when you trace, but you can get a beautifully clean line when you cut. Oop, it looks like
I…you do want to apply a little more pressure. It takes a little extra work or you’re going
to get threads that are left behind. And of course the sharper the blade on any cutting
tool, the better it’s going to work for you. These are so fun to do. And at the end
I’ve got a couple of sample layouts I can show you as well. And of course I want you
to be thinking right now while I’m teaching you how to put these all together, what you’re
going to put yours on because I’m thinking hoodies would be cool. Maybe you’ve got
a, a skateboard bag or a gear bag that you’d like to keep all your toys in. So you can
make a gear bag with your skateboard on it. Anything like that would be really fun. Ok? This is now cooled also while I was tracing
that out. So the next step when you’re working with fusible web, doesn’t that look great?
Is I’m just going to go ahead and peel the paper. And generally speaking the Heat ‘N
Bond feather light peels really nicely. And I wanted to show you what would happen if
it didn’t peel nicely and it looks like I’m going to get that opportunity. Ok, so
here’s a trick. If you have a problem peeling the paper, you can always take a pin and do
a score line with your straight pin. And that will fold and crease and break it open. Ok
now that works with a lot of fusible web products. Don’t want to let go, though, as you come
around. Keep ahold of that paper. You can also stick your tweezer on the end as well.
You just don’t want to pick at the edge of the fabric too much because if you do,
you’re going to kind of make it look frayed or ratty a little bit. And actually as I’m
done doing all the cutting, I don’t think you need to see me cut all of the pieces with
the rotary cutter. I’m going to rotate my board real quick so it makes it easier for
us to all work, how’s that sound? Ok, now we’ve got all set up for the assembly
of our skateboard. And so I’m going to do the hardware here in a second. I’ve got
that one all sewn on. Let’s just do the top one first. Now I am not going to press
this down right this second. If I were to press it down and then press on the other
parts, I might find that this starts to release. It’s such a fine glue that you really only
get about one chance at pressing. And I have already prepared a bunch of the hardware pieces
and the grip tape pieces and things so that you don’t have to watch me cut those and
trace those all afternoon. Now, with the grip tape, there are four holes
in it. That’s where the hardware comes through. We talked about that a moment ago. So we’re
going to need to cut that. And this is the tape for the nose. So I just, I’ve already
cut that. And I’m going to set that down nice like that for you. And I mentioned that
when I’m cutting my, or excuse me, when I’m picking my fabrics, I picked a wood
looking fabric for the board. Look at that, that cool texture right there. That texture
looks just like grip tape. Grip tape is often gray although it does come in other colors.
And it’s got kind of that rough, it’s like sand paper if you actually haven’t
been on a skateboard. And if you haven’t been on a skateboard, I apologize. We need
to spend some more time together. Now as you’re getting ready to cut those holes, this is
one of the things, I know it sounds silly, you really want them to be as round as possible.
So I fold them in half and I’m going to cut all the way around the outside. And I’m
really rolling the whole fabric through so that I get a nice hole as I cut that. All
the way around. Let’s do the other two. Ok, and the fourth one there. See how nice
and round those look. That’s exactly what I want you to have, please. Ok. Now let’s
get that grip on there. Usually the paper peels off that easy. Ta dah, ta dah, ta dah!
Now this is technically almost all you need for the top of the board. The only other thing
you’d see as you’re riding down the road is your wheels sticking out. And so I’ve got these half wheels. Let’s
bring you to the hardware. And like I said, we’re going to talk a little bit more about
this in a second. This here is the entire wheel, right? This is what’s going to go
on the bottom of the board. Like that. But I also make these half wheels because the
half wheels, that’s what the dotted line is there for. The half wheel is going to stick
out from underneath the board like yay. Those bolts hold on your trucks. The trucks are
the part we call the hardware or where the axles are. And so with that you are going
to want to line your wheels up in line with those holes. I’m just kind of rough placing
these or we’ll call that dry fitting these real quick. And then I’m going to kind of
eyeball down. The piece of fabric in the background is a 17 inch by 7 inch piece. And I’m going
to eventually build a quilt with all of these different rectangles I’m making with the
different skateboard designs, the different tops and the bottoms on them. So I’m also
making sure I’m respecting my quarter inch seam allowance all the way around. And if
you were really concerned, of course, you could always pull out your ruler and you could
lay your ruler here to make sure you’ve got your quarter inch. But I’m also looking
at my wheel set to make sure that my wheels look like they’re fairly lined up, right?
So one of these needs to come in a bit. And this one needs to come out a bit. And now
I’m really, really happy with my layout. Make sure you are happy with the layout and
once you are, take your iron, and remember we were gliding earlier. And now we’re going
to do the press and lift. Press and lift. Alright? I shouldn’t tell you but everytime
I teach that class, the press and lift, I think of that Reese Witherspoon teaching the
lady that, in the Legally Blonde movie, where she knocks out the UPS guy with the bend and
snap. You’re going to have to look that up if you don’t know about the bend and
snap. Ok. So the press and lift. The reason we do the press and lift is the press and
lift doesn’t make our pieces go missing. If you’re pieces ever go missing look on
the bottom of the iron. They’re probably hiding there, ok? How easy is that? The top of the board is totally ready to roll
down the road, right? Or head on over to the design wall. Let’s go ahead and do the bottoms
of the board. The bottom of the board is technically my favorite because I like playing with the
hardware. And I’m using three different colors of brown in the background. It’s
just so the quilt’s going to look terrific when we’re all finished, right? You can
do it however you like. But I am picking fabrics that look kind of like skateboard designs
would. And I’m also choosing some brighter fun colors for the bottom because they’re
going to have a lot of brown on the other squares, right? Now with this, we kind of want to think our
hardware was laying out about in these locations here. So let’s come back to the hardware
page for a moment and really talk about what you’re looking at here. Now, on a skateboard,
and this might even help us too. On the skateboard we have a couple of parts and pieces. Now
this was the very original so this bottom part here we called base plate. And that base
plate now, I think, is giving it a little more character. And we’ve rounded the edges.
Those round edges point to the center of the board. And they’re usually kind of a darker
gray, ok? This next part here is the axle that goes across and then you also have your
bushings. The bushing are generally like a bright blue, a bright orange. Actually the
different colors mean different hardnesses and the bushing is what allows the skateboard
to bend and, and move properly. In your bushings, you also have a second piece to trace. That
second piece to trace is going to look like that when it’s done. Also in a dark gray.
And it’s the washer that goes underneath the hardware. I didn’t point it out, but
you’ll notice that my axle looks a little rough. Well when we’re skateboarding we’re
doing a lot of tricks on our axle so the axles get beat up quick. So that’s intentional
that the base plate is a solid and the axle looks roughed up because it looks like I’ve
been riding this deck down the road, right? The other thing you’re going to look for
is you’re going to have these little shadows for your wheels. And then the wheels themselves
are where you get your color and your energy out of them. I chose these wild, green wheels
because when I was growing up as a skateboarder, the Kryptoes wheels were the cat’s meow.
And they were this weird limey green. So anyways that was kind of a throwback to my, my original
years as a skateboarder and doing the green Kryptoes. But your wheels can be any color.
But it’s a great place for you to add color if you’re thinking about an all over quilt
design. I mentioned the wheels. On the bottom of the
board we’re going to use our full wheel set or our full wheel here, there is looks
like that. So you will not be using the dotted lines. So if you’re building these you’ve
got what you need. You’ll have four of the shadows, you’ll have four of the wheels,
two of the hex nuts, two of the washers, two of the bushings, two of the bases and two
of the axles. Oh whew! That’s a breathful. Ok. I think you’ve got it. If not let me
know in the comment section. Ok, now with that, the first thing I’m going
to do is I’m going to go ahead and take my base plate and I’m going to drop it down.
Kind of thinking about where those wheels ended up on the other side. And remember the
base plate has the rounded edge towards the center. And then generally from the bottom
of the board, you have more tail than nose from behind your trucks. So let’s do it
about like yay. The next thing I’m going to do is I’m going to set in the axles.
And notice I’m just kind of using my tweezers for placement. The fine tuning I’ll use
with little stiletto in a moment if I need to. Now I can drop on the bushing, the washer,
the hex nut, which would be the top of the kingpin. Just while you’re learning parts
and pieces names, right? Ok? And now we’re going to put in the wheels and the final step
will be the shadow. Now funny enough, when I made these wheels, I made them to be fat
and bold like that. But you most certainly can rotate them however you like. So let’s
put these ones on as really big, long wheels. Oop, the fusible web is a little tacky, so
that’s why I use the tweezers an awful lot because it will keep me from sticking everything
to my hands here. But I looked at it and I go, oh that wheel, I didn’t cut it perfect
so I think it has more character and fits the deck design really nice that way. That’s
a personal opinion of course. Ok, shadow’s in next and we’re all but done. The shadows
actually go under the axle and on the wheel and that’s what makes it look like you’re
looking into the area where your bearings would be. See how much more dimension that
gives that little area. Do, dah doo. Coffee’s got me again. And voila! Voila, voila! Now at this moment, I’m going to be much
wiser to start using my stiletto to move things around because I can poke at it and move and
then use my tweezers here. And then I’m eyeballing it again. And I’m concerned,
look at that, I’ve got this wheel sitting in my seam allowance. So I can now shift my
whole deck. See how that kind of hung on together and just moved with me. Just moving it over.
I’m going to scoot those wheels in a little. I do not want them to SLOSS at all in my seam
allowance. Definitely good now. Ok, I’m going to adjust that one shadow. Adjust this
shadow up here. And it’s ready to roll. What do you think? Isn’t that great? Ok, now I’m pressing it down. Remember we’re
doing our bend and snap or our press and lift. And then I’m going to work the iron up the
middle. And then I’m going to hit all that hardware at the same time. And again. Just
like that, ok? And now while that’s cooling. I’m lifting that up and moving it out of
the way. While that’s cooling I have one thing I forgot to point out. And that is when
I’m tracing all of my shapes, what I’ll often do is group all of my pieces. So I have
that green fabric that I was using for my wheels and there’s the big wheels and there’s
the half wheels. So I’m maximizing my scraps. So of course you’ll be thinking if you’re
making a quilt, you’re going to be making lots and lots of boards so go ahead and make
lots and lots of wheels all at once and lots and lots of axles. That’s what I’m trying
to point out there. So we’ll set that aside. And the final step is to show you how the
quilt can come together. So I’ve got a couple other samples I’ve made for us. And here
they are. Now, oh this is a really cool deck, look at this one. Isn’t that fun? And that
also gives you a great place to bring in some more color as well with your quilt. So these
pieces are 13 ½ inches by 7 inches. These are 7 inches by 17. And if you do the math
with me, you’ll find out, once we do a quarter inch seam allowance, you will have, I’m
cheating, right? Two 7 ½ or two 13, what am I trying to say? Two sevens sewn together
make a 13 ½ so that’s the math I’m trying to teach you. And then what we’ll do is
the next layer would go kind of like a brick wall. The opposite direction. And you’re
going to make tops and bottoms of these boards on all different colors of fabric so that
as you move these around, you can start to build up your quilt, right? But while I was
playing with it, watch what happens if you put some crazy other sashing in between. I’m
thinking like inch wide black or dark grey. Wouldn’t that look radical? Get some sashing
in your blocks like that. You know, or this one would be over here kind of thing. So you
can see what all these awesome potential layouts just great quilts in your future. You know
but remember there’s hoodies, there’s bags, I could make an old retired skateboarder
like myself a new apron wouldn’t be terrible. You know what I’m saying. And let’s not
forget about the ladies. There are all kinds of radical chicks out there. I’m seeing
them in the skate parks, and out surfing and stuff. The ladies are killing it on boards
nowadays. So hats off to you, hey if I can sew, you can skate, right? And with that said,
when you’re not in the skate parks for the next couple of weeks, we’ll be seeing you
here at Man Sewing.