Sewing Jeans Part 13, Sewing Jeans, Topstitching the Waistband


Sewing Authentic Jeans Part 13, Sewing Jeans, Top Stitching the Waistband I’m using my jeans foot again There are several layers to stitch through
so you need all the help you can get I like to start at the underlap end of the
waistband so that there are no visible joins in the
topstitching This makes it a little tricky on the first
run as you have to deal with your garment gathered
up on the right of the sewing rather than spread out on the left You will have tested your topstitching again Hold your fabric firmly but don’t try to pull
it through Let the feed dogs do the work Keep the work as straight as you can The bulk of the denim is inclined to take
you off course Turn at the end don’t forget to turn with the needle down
in the fabric My stitch compensation tool has been essential
with this project If you haven’t got one, fabric folded works
pretty well I often use a spare piece of belt loop If possible this line of stitching at the
end should line up with the front fly topstitching Looking forward to the next stage you may like to combine securing the top end of the belt loops here during
the topstitching You will soon develop your favourite methods The return run is much easier as there are
no lumps to machine over If the stitch isn’t perfect, don’t worry at
all Jeans rarely have a perfect finish I’m pleased with this topstitching My domestic machine handles the thick layers pretty well as long as I take my time A quick press of the waistband before we move
on to the loops I always start with the least visible with all things like belt loops, buttonholes all the things that may not be perfect first
time All our loops should be the same length at
this stage Decide on the sort of belt you are going to
wear to get the loop size correct You want to allow a little bit extra for the
reinforcing stitches that fix the belt loops into position Doing the belt loops this way gives us some
space to invisibly stitch the loop into position Pin carefully in position Double check our belt has a little bit of ease So position them all in the same way This is the method I describe in my Jeans PDF But I am always thinking of better ways to do things and next time I may try making the loops much longer and securing them at the lower edge of the waistband on the inside Let’s get those stitched So holding the loop out of the way, just do a
few stitches backwards and forwards If you are finding this difficult It may be easier to hand stitch the loops on the inside Remove the pins Then pull the loop down to stitch across the
top of the loop Again a few stitches backwards and forwards You may feel you want to use the yellow topstitching
thread here but it isn’t easy to make these stitches look
neat You don’t want to draw attention to them I prefer to use matching thread Then secure the other end Again, get the loop into position lower the needle and secure with straight
stitching as before You may find it easy to stitch with the loops
behind the foot My foot is rather large so you may find this
process easier So that is all the loops done Take a little time to admire your work Make sure that all loose ends are trimmed
as you go along I’m keen to see how this will look with the
belt I have had this belt since the 60’s and I still love it with jeans Right, now we can move on to the hems Trim the raw edge. It’s getting a little frayed Turn to the inside to do the hems Turn up about ½” and press It is a good habit to reduce bulk when you
can so snip the inside seam at the fold and press the allowance in the opposite direction The fold up another ⅝” or so and press There is no need to pin, it will stay put
while stitching Then topstitch about ½ ” from the fold all
round, starting at the inside seam My machine has a free arm If yours is a flat bed, you will find it easier
to turn your jeans inside out That’s looking great Part 14 coming next, Sewing Jeans – The Finishing