Sewing for Beginners, How to Sew a Shirt, Hand Sewing Part 6

How to Sew a Classic Shirt Sewing for Beginners Sewing tutorials supported by Membership Sewing Pattern Sales and Fan Funding Part 6 Sewing the Collar to the Shirt In this video we join the collar to the shirt body I will show you how to hand sew with silk and how to slip stitch seams together The next step is to attach the collar to the body of the shirt This is the underside of the collar and the outside of the collar band So we are joining right sides together, matching key points But before we do that, we need to stay-stitch the neck edge That is to say we will machine stitch just inside the stitching line, around the neckline This will allow us to clip the curve which will make attaching the collar much easier That’s done The stitching is ½” in, so just within the true seam line Then clip all the way around at regular intervals to allow the seam allowance to spread when it is attached to the straight edge of the collar band Trim away the excess at seams we don’t need this extra bulk inside out collar band So as usual, right sides together, matching the centre backs pin may be a couple of pins then match and pin at the neck opening carefully lining up the edges We want to be sure that this looks good, especially if the shirt is worn open at the front When pinning, concentrate on the most visually important areas first The collar is a good example Centres must always be correct and edges then ease the rest of the seam if necessary matching any points that are indicated on the pattern Say, shoulder seams In this case the seam lengths are the same and we will have no trouble matching the two seam lines Pin all the way along, use lots of pins at right-angles Baste if you prefer or just machine over the pins In many ways pins are preferable to basting They hold the fabric secure while you machine stitch Sewing Over Pins! Please visit my site for New Guidelines The shirt is slowly taking shape Once you have mastered this type of collar you can experiment with different collar shapes and by widening the collar band which gives a completely different look This is the under collar and this is the inside collar band which will be slip-stitched over the seam line to finish You may find it easier to pin from the shirt body side You can see your stay-stitching which you want to be contained within the seam But it is best to stitch from the collar band side so that you can see what you are doing at the start and finish and you need to ensure that the inside collar band is out of the way as you stitch Nearly done, that should be secure enough When you come to machine, be sure all pins are on top The feed dogs don’t cope well with pins under the fabric as you stitch That is our collar firmly switched in place Sewing Over Pins! Please visit my site for New Guidelines We need to trim this seam and turn it up into the collar band And then making sure the seam allowance is nicely tucked out of the way we will slip stitch the inside collar band in place Everything is nicely lined up because we have taken time to get it right A super classic collar As you trim, be wary of snipping into your garment by accident Keep your hand underneath When pressing this seam it is quite tricky avoiding pressing creases into the main part of your shirt Again, a sleeve board is a great asset here And use your iron to help perfect the finish Press all the way along the collar band with the tip of the iron That’s looking pretty good It’s nice to have the collar looking as good on the inside as the outside especially when worn open at the neck When you are happy with the result, you want to pin the seam in place Tuck in any loose threads as you go Then you can either slip stitch or machine from the right side depending on the look you have chosen I have chosen slip stitching as this shirt is not having any topstitching around the edges To Slip Stitch First anchor your thread Then you slip or slide the needle along the seam allowance below but making sure you don’t go through to the outside where it will be seen and where your needle emerges, you take a thread or two from the fold above That’s one stitch Repeat slipping your needle through the layer below where the last stitch ended and as it emerges taking a thread or two from the fold above as before This is the most common method for invisible stitching one layer to another That’s pretty good. Nothing showing on the right side You don’t have to be that skilled to get a good finish and I am not the best of hand sewers myself Once you know what you are doing you can pick up some speed but there is something very satisfying about hand finishing a garment A couple of stitches back on itself to secure and take your thread back inside the seam before snipping A great finish Now we can give the collar and band a final press before moving to the next stage One of the main reasons why garments look homemade is due to the lack of pressing Pressing is part of the construction and you should press at every stage That’s looking great Let’s move on to the next stage Sewing the sleeves is the topic of the next video This easy PDF Shirt Pattern can be purchased from my site and of course it is one of the many Sewing Patterns included with Membership Join for everything or Shop for individual patterns For news of up and coming videos please Subscribe to our Channel Thank you very much for watching