Sew a Cropped Retro Jacket (Gertie’s World, Episode 1)


hi everyone I’m Gertie and welcome to my
new YouTube show Gertie’s World on this very first episode I am so excited to be
showing you how to make a cropped 50 style jacket the pattern we’re using is
my charm patterns princess coat pattern which has a ton of options including a
cropped version like this so on the red version here you will see I did a very
simple tailored sleeve it’s a two-piece sleeve so it gives you a nice fitted
look and then the shawl collar with the optional notch here on the version to my
left totally different looks same pattern this is a contrast collar in
this most amazing fabric which is a faux Persian lamb bound buttonholes and these
really amazing rhinestone buttons but my favorite thing about this version is the
Lantern sleeve so this has a beautiful shape to it very very vintage with a
seam here so if you want something more dramatic definitely go for the Lantern
sleeve today what I’m going to be showing you is this style and we’re
going to be going over everything from bound buttonholes to how to sew this
princess seam so it just sits beautifully and sews together
beautifully we’re going to be talking about sleeves
which I know can be a huge challenge we’re going to be sewing the two-piece
tailored sleeve and I’m gonna show you my favorite method for setting in a
tailored sleeve with a bias strip of fabric and it gives you this beautiful
pucker free sleeve cap and then on top of all that we are going to be using
faux fur today for the collar because I really want to show you that contrast
collar and I have this fabulous aqua faux fur and I’ve been wanting to use it
forever and today is the day so let’s get started let’s talk about fabric and
supplies for your jacket fabric I would recommend for your first one using a
sort of standard tailoring fabric so for that I mean anything like a wool would
be nice wool flannel of what this is a wool boucle, boiled wool is lovely
wools are surprisingly easy to work with they mold really well so I would
recommend starting there you can get more adventurous later with silk and
cotton and like wait sort of fabrics but for your first
one I would recommend something that’s going to be a really easy to mold wool
I’m using a cashmere because I’m very fancy and I found this amazing aqua
colored cashmere at mood fabrics in New York and it just has a beautiful hand
and I’ve been wanting to make one of these jackets out of cashmere so let’s
do it I also found a coordinating faux fur so
I’m gonna be doing my collar just like you see the Persian lamb one over here
I’m going to be doing that in the faux fur and we’re gonna talk a little bit
about a change you’re gonna need to make to the pattern to make it in faux fur
finally in terms of fashion fabrics you’re going to need a lining fabric
this is a fully lined jacket so you’re gonna want something that is nice and
slippery against the skin because I had such luxurious outer fabrics I went with
a silk crepe de Chine for my lining fabric but you don’t need to do anything
that fancy if this is your first one you’re just experimenting with tailor
tailoring try something like an acetate lining fabric or poly or something like
that something that has a little bit of slipperiness to it it’s going to help
you get your jacket on and off easily and of course you want something that I
mean I personally like to sort of open my jacket and show off my lining so you
can do something that’s a contrast or a polkadot or a plaid or just something
really fun okay so those are your fashion fabrics you’re also going to
need a few utility fabrics so by that I mean fabrics that you’re not going to
see but that are very useful to the inner structure of a tailored jacket
tailoring is all about structure and building in shape so the first thing in
that category would be your interfacing this jacket uses all fusible tailoring
methods okay they’re all are some old-school methods of tailoring and I’ve
done some videos on this before doing pad stitching and stuff like that that’s
not what we’re doing today but we’re still going to get a beautiful shape you
are going to need a high-quality interfacing I recommend this interfacing
called weft sometimes it’s called weft insertion I have a great source for
interfacing called fashion sewing supply.com
I really recommend that site if not you can usually find a weft interface
at your fabric store what I wouldn’t do is just ask them for interfacing or
fusible interfacing because you’ll probably get something that’s not going
to be great for this type of tape soft tailored project so that’s your
interfacing the next thing you’re going to need is a little bit of organza if
you’re doing bound buttonholes you’re gonna want to have some organza to
finish off the inside of the bound buttonhole on the facing so that your
button can pass through just a little scrap about this big I actually ran out
today of organza so I cut off a little bit of my press cloth which I use so if
you’re in an emergency your press cloth will work the last thing you’re gonna
need is a little bit of muslin okay so this is just a medium weight cotton
muslin undyed fabric and this is for your back stay which goes on the back of
your jacket and gives it structure and also keeps it from stretching out over
years of wear okay so those are all your fabrics the next thing I want to talk
about since I just hit on the idea of muslin is making a muslin so I really
meant recommend making a test version of this first to see if you want to make
any fitting changes to this there’s an entire chapter on fitting in the
princess code booklet which I have a copy of here um if you want to do that I
would recommend looking at the length of the jacket I lengthen mine just a little
bit so it would hit my natural waist and come down a little bit and cover sort of
my waistline seam if I was wearing a dress so you might want to do any
changes like that so just you know for your peace of mind make a muslin first
and then you can dive into cutting you’re going to be following the cutting
layouts for the cropped jacket so you’ll need to cut the bodice the tailored
sleeve and you will also need any faces so follow the yardage layouts on pages
12 to 14 or 15 pages 12 to 15 so just keep an eye on those and anything that
applies to the cropped jacket you will want to follow there okay the next thing
I want to talk about is tailoring supplies the most important thing for
this I feel like is pressing pressing is so important when it comes to tailoring
you’re really steaming and build shape into your project so you’re going
to need some specialty tailoring tools a tailor’s ham is something that anyone
who sews for herself should have on hand this is great for pressing darts
pressing since princess seams anything with a little bit of curve or shape to
it and then this is great for pressing any bulky fabrics also putting inside
your sleeve and pressing your seams open finally I mentioned a little earlier
your press cloth alright you’re gonna want a silk organza or even just a
muslin scrap of muslin will work to protect your wool from your iron because
you can get shiny spots on your wool when you press directly on it so you
want to have a barrier there before we get into sewing let’s talk about one
little change you’re gonna want to make to your pattern if you’re using a faux
fur like I am on your bodice slash collar facing which is piece thirteen
that’s the piece that goes inside the collar here you can see it a little bit
better on this one so the outside jacket is going to be would be in your main
fabric but then the facing is where you see that contrast fabric okay but the
thing is with a faux fur you don’t necessarily want it extending all the
way down to the bottom like this like you have with this persian land
personally I was fine as it’s very thin but if you have something with a very
thick pile like this faux fur I’m using you’re not going to want to have to put
your buttonholes through that faux fur so there is a alteration line on this
piece number thirteen it says fur collar cutting line so what you’re gonna do is
cut right along there cut those pieces apart and then add a seam allowance to
each side so you can see where I’ve taped five eighths of an inch a little
bit of paper to either side so that now you have a seam there so when we go to
sew our collar now this will be cut in our main fashion fabric the upper side
will be cut in your faux fur okay so that’s the make it much easier to deal
with your bound buttonholes alright so that’s it for cutting and fabric as I
said refer to the booklet at all times the first thing we’re going to get
into is sewing bound buttonholes I know that’s something that everyone wants to
learn when it comes to vintage sewing so you’re gonna grab your piece number one
and we are going to go over to the Machine and start sewing and marking and
making these beautiful bound metals alright here we are in my sewing room
this used to be my diner but now it’s my sewing room I’m so glad you’re here we
are doing bound buttonholes today so a lot of people really want to learn bound
buttonholes when they first learn about vintage sewing because they have that
like iconic vintage look to them and they’re a beautiful part of a tailored
garments so they are well worth learning I will say be very patient with these
don’t do these when you’re tired or you’ve been drinking by the way just do
when you’re feeling very relaxed and fresh to maybe first thing in the
morning the other thing I always say is always make a sample don’t start making
your bound buttonholes on your jacket front because you are literally cutting
holes in your jacket so you want to make sure that you’ve tried out the technique
first so what I recommend is you are going to need a scrap of your fabric
we’re gonna pretend that this is your jacket front so it should be interfaced
okay your entire jacket front is interfaced so you’ll want to interface
this as well you’re also going to want a little scrap of fabric to use as your
buttonhole patch the pattern does have a specific patch pattern piece which you
will be cutting out in your coat fabric but for now just use a little square
patch and what we are going to be making are these beautiful bound buttonholes
that look like tiny little mouths okay so you even can see that the main parts
of the buttonholes these are called the lips right here so what we’re gonna be
doing is forming these little mouths and these weird little lips okay so let’s
get started I’m gonna put that to the side and I’m gonna show you how I have
already marked in my buttonhole on this sample here you’re going to want to just
transfer the mark from the pattern piece to your sample scrap right here so just
so you know your buttonhole should be a quarter
longer than your button okay so this pattern calls for an inch and an eighth
long buttons so your button hall would be an inch and three-eighths but you can
tweak it depending on if you’re using a shorter bigger or smaller button
feel free to tweak but just know that the guideline is that your buttonhole
should be about a quarter inch longer so that you have a room to get it the
button the tree with the hole okay so I’ve marked in my hole it looks like a
long rectangle with a line down the center the next thing I’m going to do is
take my scrap and the scrap goes right sides together with the jacket front
where you’re gonna be sewing the buttonhole so you want to make sure it’s
a little weird because you have to kind of go by feel you want to make sure that
the scrap is covering your buttonhole mark and then you’re going to be putting
pins right here to hold it in place not a bad idea
to baste this in place by hand after you’ve pinned so that you can get rid of
those pins but I find this just as easy to just pin it and then go from there
alright so now that we’ve pinned it we are going to sew around the outer
rectangle of the machine so let’s go on over to the machine and
I’m gonna start on one long end of the buttonhole in the middle of that long
end find my petal here okay so you’re gonna start in the middle of that long
end and your stitch length should be short so – or even as short as one point
eight millimeters would be fine too so start sewing on that long and and
just sew right along your marks long line you make the outer line when you
get to the short end you’re gonna stop with your needle down and then you’re
gonna pivot okay very important part here is that you are going to want to
count your stitches on this short end because we’re gonna want to do the same
amount of stitches on the other short end so that the little rectangle does
not become distorted looking so one two three four five this is where I start
using my hand wheel because I think I’m going to miscount six okay so a good idea to
use your hand wheel once you get started going there because you can kind of
overshoot okay now we’re gonna pave it again to our other long end just so
right along there and when you get to your pivot point
stop your needle down pivot again and now I’m gonna count out those same six
stitches that’s really hard to say six stitches on the short end one two three
four five and six so now I know that both my short ends are the same weight
okay now I’m gonna finish pitching on this end instead of back stitching just
overlap your stitching you don’t want the bulk of back stitches there so just
overlap and then you can remove this from the Machine and we’re going to trim
our threads and one thing I want to mention is that I used contrast thread
for this you will obviously want to use thread to match your fabric the other
thing I should mention is that I used a clear presser foot which can be really
handy when you need to see underneath your presser foot in an instance like
this when you’re doing really fine detail work a clear presser foot can
come in handy okay so let’s take this over to a nice flat surface here and we
are going to cut into our buttonhole now this is what’s a little scary for people
and why I always recommend sewing a sample first cuz imagine doing this on
your coat front it’s a little scary but after you’ve practiced you’ll feel very
confident I’m sure to cut right in like that so I just folded it in half
and now I made a little cut line down the center I’m going to cut to about an
eighth of an inch away from the end and then snip diagonally into each corner
pivot point like that and I’ll do the same thing on the other side I’m going
to mention as well that you should be follow
along in your princess coat booklet because the bound buttonhole
instructions in there are very comprehensive and if you’re the type of
person who responds well to illustrations you will find them very
helpful okay so you can see I’ve already started to make my funny little mouth
here I’ve cut into each corner diagonally and now I’m going to take my
patch that I’ve sewn on this side and I’m going to flip it through to the
wrong side so we’ve created like this weird little window kind of thing here
I’m going to give this a nice steam you don’t have to like go crazy with this
but it is a good idea to just kind of steam it to open up that window nicely but don’t smush it flat okay you’re not
pressing here you’re just kind of hovering above with the iron and giving
it a little bit of a steam you do a little bit more but resist the urge to
go crazy because what we’re gonna do now is use using my fingers behind the
window I’m going to start to form the lips of the buttonhole so essentially
I’m just taking like these two these two sets of fingers and I am just forming
behind my sample this upper lip okay and I like to generally just start hand
sewing it in place now so I’ll form the upper lip hand sew it and then once I
get around to the other side then I will form the lower lip and secure it every
fabric is different so you might you might find that you want to like pin in
place you might want to baste in place but for me I’m just gonna form and
stitch all right I have a needle that is threaded so again I’m using a contrast
thread here and the type of stitch I’m going to be doing is called a pick
stitch so if you have ever done a Couture hand pick zipper or anything
like that you will recognize this stitch because it’s exactly the same I’m gonna
come up through that seam so we’re gonna be working in the ditch alright so this
is a thick stitch in the ditch it’s technically what we’re doing here so
coming up through the seam I’m gonna exit behind where my thread is coming
from now and take another stitch all in one kind of fell swoop here so now I’m
coming out again about a quarter inch away and I’m gonna keep going down the length
of this little lip and it’s tricky it’s you know it this is not a super easy
thing to do in sewing but once you get the hang of it you’ll understand the
mechanics of it I think what’s kind of difficult about it is that you are
forming the lip at the same time you’re stitching it and there are lots of
different methods for doing bound buttonholes this is mine I borrowed it
from a vintage sewing book and I just find it the easiest I find it the most
intuitive but there are a ton of different ways to do about buttonholes
so if this one isn’t speaking to you please explore other ways there are a
lot out there and I’ve tried a bunch ok so I have now finished forming one lip
and I’m going to stitch down the short end of the buttonhole with the pick
stitch and I’m gonna flip it around so that I
always like to work with whatever lip I’m forming should be on the top here okay so now I’m going to finish the
button hole the same way I’m just doing this same lip on the I’m doing the same
method on the opposite side so let me just keep stitching here of course I
just lost my head so let me reread my needle and we can come back when I have
stitched all the way around this okay I’ve sewn around the entire buttonhole
by hand so you can see that now the lips are formed looking very cute and so once
you’re happy with them the final thing to do is to stitch down these little
triangles right here it’s a weird nitpicky little thing to do we’re gonna
do it on the machine almost every bound buttonhole
instruction has you do this because it just gives a nice finished look to the
bound buttonhole and also holds this flat behind here okay so we are taking
this over to the machine we are going to expose that little triangle behind the
fabric and you’re just gonna fold it out of the way and you don’t have the back
stitch here you’re going to start just like an eighth of an inch away from the
little triangle start stitching don’t stitch on the fold and you’re gonna
stitch that little triangle down to the flap behind it and that’s it and same
thing on the other side you need to flip this away expose your little triangle
and start stitching a little bit away from the end of the triangle and stitch
the triangle down to the little pleat underneath it and it’s a small thing but
it really just holds your bound buttonhole nice and flat it’s gonna make
it look really beautiful so practice your bound buttonholes when you’re
feeling confident with your technique you’re gonna make three of those on your
jack fronts and next I’m going to do is we’re
going to sew that under collared art and the princess seam we’re moving on to the bodice front this
is on page 29 of the instruction booklet by the way so we are going to be sewing
this little pivot point right here this is a shawl collar so it’s a really
interesting construction and that the shawl collar is for its cutting in one
with the bodice front and then you have to do some maneuvering around this
corner right here so there is a pivot point that’s marked with a circle and a
reinforcement stitching line on the pattern you’re gonna want to transfer
those to your pattern piece and then there’s also a dart which helps create
the role of the shawl shawl collar so we are going to sew that next and then the
next thing we’re do after that is the princess seams so I love demonstrating
princess seams they’re so beautiful and there are some trick tricks and tips I
can show you to make it really easy and beautiful to set okay so let’s look this
side is done already and I have a side over here that I have not sown yet but
this is the side with the buttonholes so you’ll see my buttonhole patches down
here that little thread out of the way alright so what you’re seeing here is
this reinforcement stitching line here a dart line and then a roll line right
here and that is where the collar rolls out so that’s gonna come in handy later
for some interfacing pieces we’re going to be using first thing we need to do is
to do some reinforcement stitching along this L shape right here so let’s take
this over the machine I’m going to start stitching just right along that L shape
you can use your usual stitch length but two and a half is fine and then you’re
going to pivot at that circle foot up and then I’m gonna finish
stitching there now I’m going to just clip right into my stitching here so I’m
gonna take my Sigma C scissors I lost that word for a second
when take my scissors and I’m going to clip diagonally into the pivot point but
not cutting through my stitches obviously okay next thing I’m gonna do
is sew my dart so you can fold your dart legs together put a pin at the very end
and then I like to put pins down each dart leg and check on both sides that
they are matching and now I’m going to stitch down that dart dart leg you can
start at the pivot point you don’t have to start at the edge of the fabric so by
the pivot point I mean that circle that’s marker on your pattern a back
stitch there but not on the other end so sew along your marked dart line okay and then when you get to the end
just very gradually taper off the fabric and don’t back stitch at this side
instead just leave a few inches of thread tails and then tie these in a
knot next thing we’re going to do is press
our dart so this is where your tailor’s ham is going to come in handy if you
remember from our supplies intro you’re gonna grab your ham and we’re gonna
place it right here and you’re gonna press your dart out towards the shoulder
so not toward the center front more towards the side seam so press your dart
to one side and just get it nice and flat there
because I’m pressing from the wrong side I’m not worrying about using a press
cloth here so that is what your dart should look like next thing that we’re
gonna do is sell our princess seam so before so in your princess seam you’re
gonna want to do some stay stitching along that inner curve of the princess
seam I’m going to do Prince I’m sorry I’m gonna do stay stitching from this
edge down to the lower notch on the princess seam so I’m gonna start here
I’m using a half inch seam allowance not the back stitch for this it’s just a
stitching and when you get to the lower notch you
can stop and what we’re going to do is we’re going to clip into the curve here
your reason for all of this is that princess seams can be difficult to sew
because they are two curves that go in the same direction and when you put them
together to sew they oppose each other so it can be really difficult to get the
curves to match so what I’m going to do is just make little Clips about every
half inch here up to my stay stitching but not through it and this does this
really cool thing which it will now allow us to bend this open and shape it
so what we’re going to do is put this right sides together with the bodice
side front okay so you can see once I start pinning these right sides together
that it’s gonna get really weird up here because these need to fit together like
this so this is where people get really confused about princess seams how do I
fit these two curves together what we’re gonna do is I recommend working from the
side with the clips is you’re now gonna spread your clips to match that opposing
curve and it really is very easy once you do it this way I’ve seen people
really struggle with princess seams and especially once you get into the larger
cup sizes because charm patterns we do go up to an H cup in the H cup you’re
gonna have a bigger curve of course than you would in the a cup for instance so
the bigger the curve is the more difficult a princess seam can be to sew
but using this method it really does make it easy so just remember to stay
stitch and then clip and then match those curves together and now it will be
super easy to sew those two use pins liberally alright now we’re
going to go to the Machine and I’m going to be stitching at my usual five-eighths
of an inch seam allowance okay my pedal here we go so you want to come on a back
stitch here just as you would with any seen you’ll see my stay stitching is not
going to show on the outside of the garment because I did it at half an inch
it’s going to be within the seam allowance and just keep kind of making
sure as you’re sewing that your edges your raw edges are flush with each other and you’ll see that the clips are
spreading so that they can match the other curve and now easy peasy we’re just finishing
off the bottom of the seam which is nice and straight no more weird opposing
curve thing going on okay so pressing is super important for
princess seams and before we can press this at all we are also going to need to
not the side bodice because what you can see here is that the the bodice front is
clipped so when we press it open those clips are going to spread open this side
the side bodice is creating these ruffles right here that’s because you
need to clip it so the rule of thumb and you look in the glossary in the booklet
the rule of thumb is that you always clip now of course I’m reading you clip
inner curves and you notch outer curves okay so this side bodice would be
considered an outer curve which means it needs to be notched which means you’re
going to make little triangles okay clips are just little snips in so
because with the princess seam you have an outer curve being sewn into an inner
curve one side of these seam allowances are going to be need to be notched and
the other will need to be clipped now I recommend staggering your notches and
Clips so that the cut points aren’t meeting each other that just will help
it that seam remain a little more stable you might notice that we’re like
creating a lot of like flappy bits for lack of a better term here this is all
gonna get pressed down and it’s gonna be fully lined so this is all going to be
fully concealed so don’t worry about how it looks too much on the inside now
because we’re going to fully cover this with a lining okay to press this open
you’re gonna want to lay it over your tailor’s ham over the curve and then
make sure your iron is on and mine is hallelujah okay here we go we are
pressing this flat good idea to use some steam opening up the flabby bits I’m pressing that open I would say you
know really spend some time pressing this seam because the more you do the
more lovely and beautiful it’s going to look from the right side all right
before we do that let me show you just a couple things about interfacing so let
me finish pressing the seam and then we’ll talk about a couple interfaces before we go on to the back bodice I
want to show you one thing which is where you are going to place the
shoulder reinforcements which a special interfacing piece so this looks it just
follows the line of the shoulder right here
and you’re just gonna place it in the corner of this bodice here and press it
down okay so use lots of seam use your press cloth you do that on both sides
okay so I just want to make sure that you knew to to fuse that shoulder
reinforcement on both sides alright bodice back is next after you’ve sewn
your princess seam and pressed it open really nicely you want to remember to
put the shoulder reinforcement on each shoulder so that’s the little piece that
follows the curve of the shoulder it looks just like this you’re gonna put
one on each bodice back alright the bodice front rather so it goes here and
here alright so make sure that you fuse those on next thing we’re going to do is
sew the two bodice fronts together at the center back collar so let me grab
the other bodice front you’re gonna put your two bodice fronts together at the
back neckline okay so they should match at that notch right here this is going
to form the shawl collar and this will be the seam that goes down your the back
of your neck so you’re gonna pin these together at centre-back and that notch should be matching and
then this goes right into your roll line here so we’re going to sew this together
at five-eighths of an inch and then press it open okay so I’ve sewn that back collar seam
and now I’m going to press it open so use use some steam here if your
fabric responds well to it and this is cool because this is where you can
really see your color coming together that is pressed open the next thing
we’re going to do is apply the stand interfacing piece to the collar so this
is a cool tailoring trick where you apply an extra layer of interfacing to
the collar stand which is that portion that goes around your neck and needs to
stand up and then it falls out into the fall of the shawl collar so you are
going to take this weird boomerang shaped piece you’re going to put it at
center back here of the collar the top of it aligns with the roll line like
this and then it extends to the break point and the break point is the notch
and it’s marked on the pattern piece as well so normally I would recommend using
a press cloth for this anytime you use interfacing but I really want you guys
to be able to see where I’m applying this so hopefully if I move this over you can
see how I have applied that interfacing there I’m going to continue fusing on to
the other side it’s a little weird that you’re fusing this flat over a pressed
open seam which always feels a little funny to me that’s what you do okay so
here we’re going to continue fusing on the other side of the stand interfacing
piece and now that’s going to start to create that beautiful shape in our
collar the last thing you can do before we go on to the next step which is
working on the bodice back is to mold this in place a little bit by folding
the collar it’s starting to form the shawl collar and wrapping it around your
ham so this might be a good point where if you were like ready to take a break
for the night and come back to this tomorrow I always think this is really
cute because it’s like you’re dressing your ham up like a little person so what
you’re doing is just folding the collar along the roll line like that and
pretend the hams your baby here and you’re dressing it up and you’re going
to pin this in place and it’s great if you can prop something behind the ham
the seam roll is actually a great tool for this I don’t have mine handy right
now but that’s what I would do is prop it back here so that this is standing up
a bit and then you’re gonna fold this around here so it’s dressed up like a
little person and then you’re going to steam it in place so I’m just gonna
steam I’m not gonna press down on the roll line I’m just gonna lightly steam
it let it shape and really steam it like even get a little bit damp so that then
you can walk away leave this for the night let it dry and come back to it if
you’re ready to move on to the next step you could start working on the bodice
back but leave this for at least a couple of hours
okay let’s go work on the bodice back next next we’re gonna work on the bodice
back and this is just gonna be a quick little segment because I’ve already so
most of this because it’s super simple so you’re going to sew the center back
seam so the two backs together at centre-back next you’re going to sew
your back princess seams so you’re going to take each side back bodice and sew
that back princess seam you already know how to do princess seams because we just
did in the last segment so it’s the same idea clipping notching all of that
sewing those two curves together next thing you’ll want to do is stay stitch
around the neckline to stabilize it and finally you’re going to apply your back
stay so remember that’s the piece that’s cut out of muslin and again this is just
to stabilize your back so that your back doesn’t stretch out of where and start
to Sag from repeated Waring’s so what you’re going to do is just put the two
layers together and you’re going to baste the backstay to the bodice back
around the side seam armhole shoulder neckline and again all the way around
back to the side seam this stays open okay so you’re just matching those edges
and then stitching it together using a long stitch a long basting stitch and a
half inch seam allowance so you’re stitching within your seam allowance and
that’s it for the back so next we’re gonna work on putting the front and the
back together next thing we’re going to do is sew the front bodice to the back
bodice at the shoulder seams and neckline so before you start doing
anything I would recommend clipping into the stay stitching on the back neckline
so just about every half inch you hear a little jingling going by that’s my cat
Henry who I also call mr. jingles sometimes because he has a little bell
on his collar okay he’s just passing through all right so I have clipped into
the back neckline that will help us again just like the princess seam idea
that will help us straighten this out to sew it to a curve okay you’re gonna take
so you have your front you have your back bodice laid down then you’re gonna
take your front bodice you have pivot point circles on both the
front and the back so on the back bodice they’re right here on the front bodice
they are where the dart legs meet right there so there are circles marked on the
pattern pieces if you’re not sure what I’m talking about you can always refer
back to your pattern pieces so I would start by matching those so legs of the
dart to the circle and then your darts should match I’m sorry your darts your
notches should match on your shoulder seams I’m really happy to be able to
show you guys this part because I feel like it’s a little tricky but once you
see it in action it’ll make a lot of sense
okay so again same thing on the other side you’re gonna match your circle on
the back bodice to the circle on the front bodice and by the way this style
is really the way this is sewn is very typical of shawl collars okay matching
our notches again so hopefully if you encounter another shawl collar in the
wild you will know how to sew it okay so I’ve matched from my pivot points over
to the shoulder edges and now Henry is jumping on something so that’s what’s
going on back there all right so now we can match the necklines to each other so
you can spread the clips if you need to to match the curve of the front neckline
and just put some pins there you’re gonna want to match up these seams very
important you have a center back seam to match up from front to back so you’ll by
use a pin when I’m trying to match seams just go through both seams and then pin
like that once I’ve got them matching okay so hopefully you can see now how I
have pinned all the way across from one shoulder edge to the other matching the
pivot points and the back neckline and center back seams so next thing we’ll do
is go over to the Machine and sew it alright we’re gonna start from one
shoulder edge and so with the bodice front up towards you and the kind of
tricky thing about this scene is that you’re gonna need to break your
stitching at the dart so you’re gonna see what I mean when I get there all
right so see how I’m getting to the legs of my dart right here this is the fold
of my dart when you get to your dart stitching you’re going to backstitch and
then you are going to break your stitching pull this out
and then you’re going to restart on the other side of the dart so right at the
base of the dart of the stitching it’s a little bit funny but it’s much
better than if you tried to just loop there I found my pedal cause wearing heels
earlier and I couldn’t quite find it and now I’m in fuzzy socks which is much
better but I have to relocate my pedal okay here we go so you’re starting right
at that dart point again so anytime it’s a pattern says break your stitching
that’s what they mean you need to stop take it out of the machine cut your
stitching and then kind of reconfigure however they want to and put it back in
so we’re gonna do that again on the other side obviously because we have two
darts to under collar darts and again everything that I’m doing here is really
typical of a shawl collar the under collar darts the way they come together
with those pivot points all of that so if you’ve sewn a shawl collar before
you’ve probably seen all of this if you have it this might seem really strange
ok I’m at my second dark now and I’m going to backstitch break my stitching
again so I can start on the other side of this start so the the goal of course is to have
your stitching always meet so you don’t have any little holes in your jacket but
you can always fix that if you do so you’ll want to check after you’ve done
these lines of stitching to make sure everything looks good now we’re to the
other side of the shoulder okay so I’ve sewn from one side to the
other one shoulder to the other and if you look on the right side this is what
you should be seeing these little pivot points just looking like little corners
there all right so to press this seam open there’s one funny little step you
have to do and that is to clip away where my cases just say they are clip
away these corners right here see where your dart is right there on the back
neckline you’ll see that there is a little excess right here where you’re
going to want to clip away to the point like that so that’s the kind of thing
that is really hard to explain and instructions and relatively easy to show
you guys how to do so if I try to press this open you’ll see that a fold kind of
forms back here I’m just going to clip away that excess and that’s it and now
that we can press this seam open so I recommend having something like your
seam role or your tailor’s ham handy so that you can now press this open so we’re gonna press one shoulder open
and now you want to reposition so that your back neckline is now on the seam
roll and I’m kind of you know I’m going
through this quickly but this is a good time for you to take stock of what
you’ve done and I would normally be a little more critical of my work right
here making sure that your back center seam matches making sure that you don’t
have any gap where you broke your stitching so just take the moment to go
over it all make sure you’re happy with it this is the time to fix anything
that’s bothering you and that’s the other side of the
shoulder scene so we have one completed back seam from shoulder to shoulder and
at the center back neck the next thing you’re gonna do and I let you do this on
the on your own because it’s very simple and I know you’ve done this before
is that you’re going to sew the side seams so front to back I’m gonna put
these two together so top to bottom bottom top whichever you like better so
you’re now and have basically like a little best okay so that means that the
next step is going to be sweet okay we’re ready to sew our sleeves but first
I’m gonna show you that I have put the jacket as far as we’ve sewn it onto the
mannequin and look how amazing it’s looking so you can see your bowing
buttonholes princess seams you can see how the shawl collar is starting to take
shape and your side seams and that tricky shoulder slash neckline seam so
we’ve done a lot we’re about halfway there and I hope you are all loving how
your jackets are coming together so the next thing we’re going to do is our
sleeves if you look through the instruction booklet you’ll see that
there are three styles of sleeves that you can do for this pattern I’ve
specifically chosen the long tailored sleeve because I feel like this was one
of the things that I got a lot of feedback on that people were confused by
how to sew this style of sleeve so I feel like it’s gonna help to show you
how it comes together a tailored sleeve is a little different from a usual
sentence sleeve because it has two seams rather than one so like for instance a
dress like I’m wearing will have one seam going down the under side of the
sleeve tailored sleeves are a little different because they have two seams so
the sleeve is broken up into two pieces and this is typical of tailored garments
like coats and jackets it lets you get a little bit more of a taper in the arm so
it doesn’t get too baggy when you’re working with a tailored garment so you
have two pieces and first let me show you I’ve already constructed one sleeve
here so this is what it’s going to look like so let’s just put this to the side
and I’m going to show you how to construct this
from the beginning okay so you have an upper sleeve and an under sleeve you are
gonna pin these together right sides together and match your notches so
you’re gonna have one seam on this side another seam on that side so make sure
that your matches your your notches are matching and you’re gonna pin all the
way down each side of the sleeve now what I do is that I generally will just
pin both sides both of these seams and sew them in one go so you can see now
the sleeve is starting to take shape on the table okay so I do want to show you I’m going
to take this flat onto the table over here so you can really see this seam
allowance when you start to pin these together at the top it’s going to look
really weird on this side because you have this long angle that extends past
the top of the piece and the reason for that is just the way that things are
graded and the way that seam allowances are added so what you want to be looking
for is that it’s going to match at the 5/8 of an inch line so don’t worry that
you’re seeing all this excess here as long as it matches at the notches you’re
good okay so you will see that excess is all I want to tell you so I pinned down
both sides of these seams now I’m going to go to the Machine and I’m going to
sew down both sides so these are super easy straight seams you just want to be
on your regular stitch length okay back secure bottom and same thing
on the other side okay we’re gonna press
these seams open so you definitely need a seam roll or some other sort of
pressing implement for this you are going to put it inside a sleeve board is
another thing you could use I’m gonna go from the top down so I’m going to place
the seam roll inside the sleeve and press both of these oops my iron turned
off there it’s back press these open sort of a love-hate relationship with
the auto off on my iron in one hand I appreciate that it doesn’t let me burn
down my house on the other hand it seems to go off a lot so I don’t know I’m
always kind of searching for a new iron but I really like these just simple
black & decker ones because I feel like they last the longest of any I’ve used
and they’re not expensive but I’m always happy to hear your iron recommendations
okay so you’re gonna press the other side open now and the next thing we’re
gonna do may seem out of order we are going to sew the hem on the sleeve it’s
much easier to do this hem now when you’re just working with a small piece
like this then when you have the jacket all constructed so I prefer to do this
at this point and we’ve already got seam roll inside the sleeve so we might as
well turn up that hem allowance and you can I put this right here no I can’t
okay there we go so we’re going to turn the sleeve up a full inch at the bottom
to the wrong side they have my clear ruler I use these
clear rulers for pretty much everything it’s a 2 by 18 inch clear gridded ruler
I usually order them online in bulk because I need to have one like at arm’s
reach all the time so I’m just measuring an inch all the way around I do have a favorite gridded ruler who
has a nickname I’m only telling this because Melisha is
here and she loves to tease me about this I have a clear gridded ruler that
we’ve nicknamed Chippy because he has a chip in him and for some reason every
time I’m looking for a ruler Chippy is the only one that I could find and he’s
so reliable and true that he’s just always there for me though this
unfortunately is not Chippy today so I can’t really show you what I’m talking
about but Chippyi lives at the studio but he’s old faithful but you
should have a lot of these rulers around I really recommend them okay now press
that up take your seen roll out and now I’m just going to do a little hand
stitching here hmm okay let me so we are going to do a
catch stitch here so that means we’re gonna come up through the hem like that
and then we’re gonna take we’re going to move left to right I’m going to keep
working from the hem and then up to the sleeve itself so take a little court you
hold your needle horizontally take a little stitch in the hem and then another stitch in the sleep
when you’re stitching the sleeve you are going to want to just grab the littlest
bit of fuzz on the inside of your fabric you don’t want to take a big stitch here
you’re just grabbing a thread or two now I know that my thread is probably
blending in a bit for you guys here so I will tell you that in the glossary and
the booklet there is a really good illustration of a catch stitch so please
check that out okay so I’m going to finish hand stitching this real quick
and then we will come back and set in the sleeve now that the sleeve hem is sewn the next
thing we can do is set it into the bodice I really want to show you this
alternative method for setting in a tailored sleeve I did not invent this I
read about it in a book called Tailoring: the Classic Guide to the Perfect Jacket
it’s an amazing book the name of it is in that booklet as well for the princess
coat if you want to learn more about tailoring and please check it out
I’m going to show it to you now because it really works wonderfully and it’s
kind of unusual so the first time you do it just practice it and you will get the
hang of it and you will love it I hope so
so the what it does is it uses a bias strip and you can just use your fashion
fabric for this and buy a strip of fabric you’re gonna cut this on the true
bias okay so you’re gonna want this to be two inches this way by 12 inches long
okay you’re going to take it and fold it in half this way and then make a little
notch at the center point because that is going to match the top of your
shoulder seam so the true bias as you may know is very stretchy okay so it’s
the least stable part of the leaf so it does have some stretch to it which is
exactly what we want so we are going to take this strip and
sew it to the inside of the sleeve pulling it so that it pull it stretches
and pulls up the sleeve cap so it will gather it without creating any actual
gathers it’s going to ease it up without you won’t see any pleats or puckers or
gathers so it’s a really cool method so what you’re going to do is you’re going
to match that notch that we just made on the strip onto the top of the sleeve cap
over here on the sleeve and put a pin there like that okay so you’ve got a
strip pin to the inside of your sleeve very important that you’re working on
the inside of your sleeve I have made the
mistake people were when I was first learning this I sewed the strip outside the sleeve don’t do that okay we’re going to take it to the Machine and as you’re
sewing this make sure that you’re using a half inch seam allowance we don’t want
to see this stitching you’re going to start at your center notch and what
you’re gonna do is just pull this bias strip so that it stretches and start
sewing you can be on a slightly longer stitch length for this for is good four
millimeters so with some fabrics if they resist easing up you can in addition to
pulling the strip you can also use your left hand to push the sleeve fabric
through because I’ve sewn one sleeve in this fabric I have the experience to
know that that will be too much gathering for this fabric so I am just
going to pull the strip like this and I’m just using my left hand to just
guide the fabric through of the sleeve that’s my little extra seam allowance
bit I can trim that off in a little bit but that’s all there is to it on this
side so as you can see we’ve started from the center point and moved outward
the end of the strip we’re gonna have to sew the other side now but hopefully you
can see that it already started to make this into a beautiful sleeve cap I love
this so you can see from the inside that it’s created this sort of ruffle on the
seam allowance and now we need to repeat that process on the other side so that
it’s curved into a nice shoulder shape on both sides this is the awkward side
because you have to sew from this direction so normally you would be used
to putting your the work to the left of the needle now we’re gonna have it to
the right which always feels weird but just go with it it’s like I said it’s
gonna take a little practice some people who have tried to talk into this method
have felt like it’s just too awkward but I really feel like it’s worth it okay so
you’re pulling now your left hand guiding with your right
hand hopefully your machine has marks on the left side like mine does so I can
still be checking my seam allowance but if it doesn’t you can put some washi
tape or something down and again just make sure that you’re pulling the bias
strip okay so look at that nicely eased sleeve cap so that’s what
you’re looking for is it to be formed into a shoulder shape like this so I
don’t know about you guys that stuff like this gets me really excited so I’m
going to put this on the ironing board now so you can just see it flat and then
we’re gonna actually set it into a jacket so as you can see it’s laid out
here you can see how it’s ruffling on the sleeve cap side you see your bias
strip in there and now I’m gonna trim away this annoying guy right there and
I’m gonna grab my jacket so that we can set a sleeve in okay setting in sleeves
so you are going to let your notches guide you you should have a notch on the bottom of
the sleeve here the lowest point of that curve that matches the underarm on the
bodice so again not like you’re used to probably with sleeves where you have a
seam matching the seam at the side seam so you let this seat let this notch
guide you first and then the one above it this is the shoulder knotch
okay so we are going to start by matching this is my jacket right side seam we’re
gonna start by matching underarm to underarm like this so underarm notch to
side seam on the jacket and then I’m going to pin on the inside next thing
I’m going to do is take that shoulder notch on the sleeve and I’m going to do
a fancy maneuver so that I can get these two right sides together and now I’m
working from the wrong side of the jacket there goes John’s foot and I’m
gonna match those to each other if your back princess seam on your bodice is not
matching up to a sleeve seam that means you’re probably putting the wrong sleeve
on the wrong side so check that out you should have a notch to match this front
princess seam and then a knotch
on the bodice to match the front sleeve seam so this is the reason that tailored
sleeves are so confusing they don’t just match up as intuitively
as a one-piece sleeve does but if you just go by the pattern and the notes on
the pattern I did include some some notes to tell you what not what notch
matches up to what seam hopefully that will help you okay now that I am all
pinned in we can set in the sleeve we are going to set the sleeve in so you
want to get to a free arm position like this use your regular stitch length and
we’re stitching at five-eighths of an inch so the cool thing about that bias
strip method I showed you was that I have never ever time I do it I can’t
believe how easily everything matches up you don’t have to distribute any gathers
it just seems like magic to me if you do find that your pieces aren’t matching up
then you can actually pull the basting the easing stitches ease it up a little
bit more before you can clip if one side is too
bit you can flip the side that’s too that’s smaller so you have options but
like I said I really feel like it’s amazing how it always matches on the
first try sleeve seam just like that we’re meeting up with our beginning
section so just meet your previous stitching at the underarm take that out
and then I always like to just check how my sleeve has gone in here and yeah look
for puckers anything like that and like I said I feel like I always get like a
really smooth pucker free sleeve with this method so
the next thing you would do is do another line of stitching around the
bottom of the sleeve and then just trim real close okay so I’m going to do that
I’m going to set in the other sleeve and then when we come back we’re going to be
putting on the facing we are on to the bodice facing if you’re following along
in the booklet which I hope you are this is page 43 okay so I wanted to talk a
little bit about faux fur and sewing faux fur there’s a lot I could say but
I’m just gonna try to condense this I have a faux fur sample here on the flat
surface and you can see faux fur always has an app just like regular fur or like
velvet like corduroy so you can stroke it one way and it feels nice and smooth
stroke it the other way and it feels like when you’re petting
a cat and you’re petting in the wrong way so you want to always cut with the nap
alright so whichever way the nap goes is the smooth way so you generally like the
nap to be going down on your body unless you want to do something kind of unusual
and have the nap going the wrong way then you get sort of a more sort of
ruffled look on the fur the next thing I want to tell you about
fur is that the cutting is a little unusual because it’s not recommended to
just like start hacking away at the yardage you want to trace your pattern
pieces onto the wrong side faux fur has a knit like backing that
you can just cut through so to just give you an example if I traced a pattern
piece like that with and you know you can use Sharpie like a small fine point
sharpie or felt it felt tip pen and then after you’ve traced your pattern piece
you can just cut with the point of your scissors and then just kind of wiggle
your scissors so that you’re just isolating that knit layer and not
cutting through the entire pile of fur okay so you’re just cutting that layer
and then you see the fur will start to come together it’s coming apart like
that in any case you’re gonna have fuzzies all over your sewing rooms so be
prepared for that and have a lint roller handy I have them all over me now Hattie
had them on her face earlier they are everywhere so that’s just part of sewing
with faux fur so those are a couple tips and tricks for faux fur we talked a
little bit earlier how you need to make that seam in the facing so
I’m going to show you right now how I’ve sewn these this will be my front face
saying you can see this is the shawl collar up here cut with a nap down and
then down here where the buttonholes are is cut in the cashmere so it’s not it’s
nice and smooth ok next thing we’re going to do is we are going to I’ve
already reinforced my pivot point so you remember this is this is really similar
these next steps are really similar to your bodice front okay lots of similar
steps so I already did that l-shaped stitching that we did on our bodice
front and I need to clip to the pivot point so I’m just going to get my
scissors underneath that layer of knit backing and clip diagonally there same
thing on my other facing side I already did my reinforcement stitching here too
and again we’re going to stitch that Center back neck seam on the shawl call
I have a little bit of fuzz up my nose okay so you’re going to put your two
faux fur facing pieces together and we’re going to we’re going to stitch
along that center back neckline seen so far is really weird too so because of
all of those fibers in there so you really just need to sew it like you
normally would and then it’s going to look a little funny and you just need to
pull any hairs that have gotten caught out of the scene with a pin or some
small tool so I’m sewing 5/8 of an inch just as usual okay that’s the center back neckline
seam and you can see how a lot of the the fibers are just sort of caught in
that seam so you can go back later and just pull things out pull those little
hairs out as needed to just kind of make it look pretty
yeah and you can press this seam open but I would be really really careful and
definitely be working with a very low heat and my iron isn’t again has turned
to auto off so be really careful these are not natural fibers obviously they
are faux fibers and they can melt and you could also get all those little
fibers on your iron so I have tended towards low or no ironing on faux fur
alright next thing we’re going to do is we need to set in the back neck facing
into this faux fur so this is going to belong kind of like right here and
finish off your back neck alright so again you’re gonna see some
skills repeated that we did with the outer coat I already did a line of stay
stitching along the back neck facing now we are going to be putting these right
sides together at the back neckline you’re going to want to match those
circles you should have circles on your back neck facing and on your front
facing where you clip two I’m going to match those and pin them together and
and these will be seamed together here and same thing on the other side so we’re actually just saying that we
feel like you know in every pattern that we do there’s a tricky a tricky spot
that you know people might struggle with or you haven’t seen before and I feel
like with this pattern this is a long involved pattern you know especially if
you do the full length code but the part that I feel like you know was confusing
for testers and has is confusing for people who haven’t sown a shawl collar
like this before is this part so go easy on yourself if you’re struggling with it
just keep remembering that you’re matching your pivot points first you
have to clip to those pivot points first otherwise you are not going to be able
to sew these together and all it is is that you’re sewing the shoulder seam and
the back neckline seam in one so from one side to the other so from this side
all the way over and you have to pivot at each of those pivot points we don’t
have the darts this time to mess us up so we don’t have to break our stitching
as we did on the first round so let’s go back over to the sewing machine you
always want to be sewing from the sides with the diagonal slashes to the pivot
points so I’m getting to my circle here and I’m
going to stop with the needle down and then you can pivot slightly if you need
to this back neckline also makes it a little more confusing that we’ve got
aqua fur going everywhere so now I’m stitching along the back neckline and
I’m just going to kind of finger press this seam open as I stitch over it
now you really can’t see anything here all this fur okay now into the pivot
point on the opposite sides I’m going to stop with my needle down okay and I’m
just going to finish off this other sort seen here okay all right so hopefully what you can
see is that we have now sewn the back neck facing to the front facing just the
shawl collar and now we’ll be able to sew it to the jacket so let’s take a
quick break and we’ll come back and do that step okay we are back I wanted to
show you this next step on the dress form I feel like once you take it off
and put it on the table it just looks like a big pile of fabric and I think
we’ll be able to make a little more sense of it if you can see it on the
dress form so as you can see looking very beautiful at this stage we’ve got
sleeves I want to tell you one thing that’s gonna be important to chew you’re
sewing in the next few steps and that is to remember where the break point is on
this jacket so if you remember from the intro the break point is where the shawl
collar starts to roll to the outside of the garment okay the break point is
marked by a notch on this pattern it also has a label on it
okay so just keep that in mind that this is your break point right here and you
have a notch on both sides for that okay have our outer coat and then we have the
facing that we just sewed which is now shedding all over me so I want to show
you how you’re gonna pin these two pieces together right sides together of
course you can start it I mean Center back would be I guess a logical place to
start with this match your Center back seams and then this is going to get pinned all
the way around gonna match your notches your breakpoint notches all of that so like that the start to come together
right sides together like this okay so we are going to now so from this bottom
edge and I’m looking at my booklet right now just make sure that I’m right from
the bottom edge here where I’m on page 50 all the way around the collar down to
this bottom edge okay so just the front opening and around the
collar so because it’s fairly simple sewing
just a straight seam I’m going to go ahead and do that step and you should go
ahead and do it and then we’ll come back to do the grading entrance okay so I
sewed around the entire facing and the collar edge and now you can grade your
seam allowances I’ve already done mine I’m just going to explain real quickly
how you’re gonna do yours you usually always trim the facing so
that it is the shorter seam allowance when you’re grading so you can trim that
one down to like between the Nathan a quarter of an inch and then the garment
itself would be about an eighth of an inch taller than that so you’re creating
two layers of seam allowance the thing about a tailored jacket like this is
that after the break point you need to switch that up because the collar now
flips to the opposite direction so it’s a little confusing but just remember
that the break point is your guide here so from break point to break point you
are going to reverse the grading rule so you are now going to trim the garment
shorter rather than the facing and the facing will be the longer one okay so
that’s just between the break points now we’re going to go to under stitching and
again because this is a tailored jacket a shawl collar and a break point we will
need to reverse which side the under stitching is on so I always like to
press after I understood okay so I understand
and then I use the under stitching as a tool to help me press so I’m going to
start at this waistline and I’m going to understood you’re gonna make sure your
facings are underneath your needle here so there we go alright I’m under
stitching and I just you know make sure that as you’re under stitching you’re
really like opening up these layers and holding that seam line nice and taut when you get to the break point which
conveniently is around where the faux fur point starts you’re going to break
your stitches and you are going to move to under stitching the other side of the
seam line so what I mean by that we’re going to trim our threads and now we’re
going to get back in there but this time we’re going to start under stitching on
this side of the seam okay and you’re making sure your seam allowances are
underneath dad I’m going to lengthen my stitch like just a little bit because I
feel like with all this bulk here sometimes the stitches get a little
short so again I’m just gonna keep holding
things taut jackets and coats can be difficult because you have a lot going
on there’s a lot of layers there’s a lot of fluff flying around if you’re working
the faux fur so just kind of try to keep everything on the table as much as
possible and then just keep opening up that seam line so I’m going to go all
the way around the collar and then when I get to the of the breakpoint on the
other side then I’m going to switch again to under stitching the other side
of the seam line and then we’ll come back and press we have understood around the entire
neckline now and the next thing you’re going to want to do is to press so I’m
at the ironing board and what you’re going to want to do is turn the under
stitching to the inside my iron has probably turned off again yes it has
what you’re gonna do well that heats up is you are just going
to slide that you’ll feel a hard edge along the under stitching and you’re
just going to roll that as far out towards the edge of the garment as you
can and that is what it’s going to give you a nice crisp edge on the outside
here with the pressing so one thing I always tell my students in workshops
people ask me a lot why I don’t press and then under stitch and my answer to
that is that I think of under stitching itself as a pressing tool so you need to
have it there in order to press it’s going to give you that nice crisp edge okay so my irons still kind of heating
up a little bit there but you get the idea
that’s my facing line it’s gonna be a little trickier with all this fur we are
going to just kind of press it as flat as possible but the real work I have to
do around this edge is pulling out all these little fibers that got caught in
the seam and I’m not going to do that now while you’re watching but that will
be something that I’m gonna need to work on so you can see that’s one thing with
faux fur that’s a little different than with any other sewing or any other type
of fabric so I can go to lightly press along that edge and then back to the
other side this facing and then just press there’s a steam okay so that’s understanding and
pressing the next thing we’re going to do is make the windows for our bound
buttonholes so we’re taking a quick break and I’m going to come back and
show you how to do that now that you’ve finished your under stitching the next
step is to create the windows in your facing so that your buttons can pass
through your bound buttonholes to the facing because as you can see now you
have bound buttonholes with these beautiful openings that you made but
they do not go anywhere so you need to create these little windows on the
facing so this is another reason why bound buttonholes are a little bit of
work because you now have another step where you need to create an opening on
the inside of the coat so I’m gonna use this method which is which I call the
organza window of method I don’t know if that’s the official term for it but
again it’s something that I’ve seen taught before and also seen some
articles about and I really like this it gives you a nice clean finish on the
inside but you’ll see I mean just like anything I’m teaching today there are
tons of methods to do this so if this one doesn’t resonate with you you there
are lots of other ways out there but what you’re going to do is you need to
get the facing nice and flat with okay so the facing is turned in you’re
understanding it’s all pressed and then you’re just going to put some pins
through the layers so through the outer jacket through to the facing just to
kind of hold all these layers in place so kind of like that I’m just kind of
created a little grid of pins right here okay the next thing you’re going to do
is you’re going to locate where the corners of each buttonhole are and mark
them on the facing so you can put a pin through this is probably the easiest way
you’re gonna take a pin and just make sure your pin is very straight up and
down and Pierce it all the way through all your layers and then when I turn
this over you’ll see I have four little spikes coming up like that and I’ll be
able to use a rule everyone I just check this one real quick let’s see so it’s a
little weird so if anything looks off you can go back and re place your pins okay so I’ve got these four little
spikes coming up and I’m going to use my ruler like clear ruler to connect those
lines like that and then to also connect the
shorter lines so you’ll see I have drawn a rectangle on the inside facing you’re
gonna do that with all three buttonholes but I’m just going to do one for the
purposes of this demonstration I’m gonna take these pins out now and the next
thing I’m going to do is take my organza patch that you have cut out with your
bound buttonhole patch pattern piece and this is going to go over your facing
like this right sides together you can put some pins around it to hold it in
place and if I were doing the entire facing I would this is why I have a long
piece right here because I would need it to cover all three buttonhole windows
but I’m just gonna do the one for now and I’ll come back and finish this on my
own later okay so I’m gonna go over to the machine and what I’m gonna do is sew
around my marked rectangle here and this is just like you did the bound
buttonhole you’re gonna start on you’re gonna use a short stitch length you’re
gonna start on the middle of one long end of the rectangle start stitching
when you get to your short end you’re going to count your stitches so that you
remember for the other short end and you can keep them even one two three four
five six and now I’m gonna pivot this is where
things get are you okay okay this is where things can get a little tricky
especially if you have a really big coat so it’s great for the crop jacket
because you don’t have to swing a lot of fabric around in here but if you’re
doing the princess coat with a full skirt this can be really difficult so
you can either keep your bodice and skirt in two separate pieces now see
this is where it gets tricky kinda have to maneuver this through the center of
the machine like this so that you can pivot all the way around and then so
this short side so as you can imagine if you had a full circular skirt on here
and that would be pretty difficult to sew so there like I said you can keep
the two elements and pieces the bodice and the skirt and then do this part and
then put them together or you can use another method there is one other method
suggested in there if this is going to be too difficult for your particular
project okay short side here one two three four five six okay and again I just overlapped my
stitching like I did on the bound buttonhole okay so I’m gonna take my pins out I’m
gonna trim down my patch because I’ve only done one buttonhole right now but
if you had done all three you would now make slits between each one so you had
three separate patches and now I’m going to do the slightly terrifying job of
cutting into my coat so again fold it in half just like when
you did your bound buttonholes and make a little snip it’s cut to the end or a
little about an eighth of an inch from the end then into each corner same thing
with the other side okay and now we have this cool organza
patch that you can turn through to the wrong side now I’m gonna wake up the
iron again and this is going to create a really clean window in the facing you
need to work from the wrong side here and pull the edges of the organza top so
that the window opens up completely like this and then you’re going to seam it you can really press it here you can put
some pressure down on the iron because you really want to create a nice clean
window like that so you can see on this side how it’s created that little window
and now when you put it and you know of course we’re gonna need to get rid of
some threads and stuff here but when you put it on the inside of your buttonhole
you will have a nice clean window on the inside as well so there is a final step
that you’re going to need to do which is hand stitching this in place and this
can actually wait until later in the process if you I would recommend
probably getting your lining on first you can come back and then you’re going
to want to just do a little hand stitch around the edges here so that this holds
in place beautifully okay so I have two more buttonholes to do but that shows
you how to do one and the next thing we’re going to do is we’re going to come
back into the lining we are at the point where we are ready to sew our lining you
can see how beautiful the jackets looking bound buttonholes and then the
little windows on the inside so the next step would be to assemble your lining
I’ve gone ahead and done mine already because it’s really similar to the steps
we did for the outer jacket the only thing that’s a little unusual is the
pleat in the center back so the bodice back lining is cut on the fold and then
you form this pleat so you’re gonna be sewing cleat lines at the top and bottom
forming this sort of deeply if this is traditional and tailored garments to
give you a little more room also be careful you know you’re using different
pattern pieces for almost all of the lining pieces in this pattern because
they are cut slightly differently just to give you the extra room on the inside
of the garment so once you had constructed your entire lining you’re
gonna sew it to your facing so again I wanted to go to the dress form I feel
like that’s one of the challenging things about this project is sort of
seeing the big picture here so what we’re going to do is kind of open up
these facings from the inside of the jacket and by the way we are now on page
three the nine of the booklets so this is “Sew
Lining to Cropped Jacket” so if you need to follow along in the booklet which I
definitely recommend that you do okay I got some pins in here as I was trying to
get it to stay in nicely and now of course I want to fold it out so let’s
let’s grab these so now you can take your facings so that they’re outside of
the jacket you’re going to take your lining and right sides together drape
this over here so I’m kind of like eyeballing Center about that Center
black pleat to the center of the back facing and then this is going to get
pinned to the facing edge here like this and you have notches to help you know
this is really awkward to do but to dress for
let’s see hopefully you’re getting the idea I’m gonna take this lining edge and
I’m going to be matching it to the edge of the facing and then the front facing
all the way down to the bottom here so I’m this is really way more awkward than
I anticipated so I’m going to take it off and pin it on the table but then you
can come follow along when I start to sell all right I have wrangled this
Muppet beast and I have pinned together the lining to the facing and I’m gonna
start sewing at the waistline on this side and again it’s kind of like how we
sewed the facing to the outer jacket just kind of around from the waistline
around the collar to the other ways so I’m going to get this started this is
obviously a kind of long scene so I’m just gonna get it started and then I’ll
finish up and come back and show you the hemming steps so we have sown the entire lining and
turned it right side out so the whole lining is now termed right side facing
you and I put the sleeves down inside the sleeves and it’s starting to look
really beautiful and finished and we actually only have a few steps left so
the next thing you’re going to do is take care of the hem so I do this whole
hem by hand I know there are methods out there where you can bag the whole lining
but this is a really nice traditional method and it doesn’t require any like
crazy gymnastics of turning the whole thing inside out and all of that so
we’re just going to hem I turned up the seam allowance on the bottom 5/8 of an
inch on just the jacket and I’m going to hand Stitch that so starting just at the
edge here I’m ignoring the facing I am going to use a catch stitch and I’m using a contrast color here so
you can see it and again just like when I did the sleeve hem I’m making sure
that I’m just grabbing the tiniest little bit of the jacket itself not
taking a big stitch there you can just especially if there’s interfacing there
like there is on the front of the jacket you can just grab a little bit of the
interfacing since it’s fused to the fabric so I’m gonna go along like this
along the entire bottom of the jacket here using a cut stitch like that so it
forms a little zigzag all along the bottom edge then you’re gonna come and
turn in the lining as well and the facing so that it covers that turn up
the seam allowance on the lining and you’re going to hand stitch that between
those layers with a slip stitch okay so the whole thing is hand-stitched it’s
gonna give it a really lovely finish down here okay and then the final thing
you need to do in terms of hand stitching linings and hems and all that
is the hem on the sleeve lining so let’s take a look at that you’re gonna want to
make sure that the sleeve is aligned inside the jacket and not twist it at
all and then once you’re happy with it
you’re going to turn in the hem allowance on the sleeve and you’re going
to match it to the hem allowance on the jacket so that those raw edges are
matching and then just shift it slightly up so that it forms like a little jump
pleat right here and then you’re going to slip stitch between those layers so
right in there you’re gonna slip stitch okay so that is the final step with that
and then the very final thing is sewing on your buttons so what I like to do is
just overlap like this make sure you have the correct amount of overlap and
then you’re going to make a mark through each of those buttonholes and then sew
your buttons on to the opposing side of the jacket and you’re done
okay everyone my jacket is totally finished I spent a lot of time hand
sewing it and getting the lining all beautifully finished and I’m so excited
about it and I hope you all have loved doing this project too so let’s just
take a look inside so here you can see the inside of the bound buttonholes and
that beautiful lining and here how it is how its finished with the faux fur on
the inside so I hope you loved this project it’s been really fun getting to
share it with you and just as a reminder we’ll be back every month with a
full-length episode of Gertie’s World so please subscribe and we will see you
next clip at the end of each Gertie’s World episode we want to show you what
is going on in Gertie’s world so this month it is something really exciting
and that is that we are launching our patreon for Gertie and charm patterns so
what we’re working on is really exciting you’ve just sewn the crop jacket
variation of the princess code this is the full length variation with the
lantern sleeve and the full skirt we’re working on a variation that’s exclusive
to patreon and it is right here in progress or it’d be sewing this next on
camera so it’s in pieces right now but you can see that this is the princess
coat variation and then it’s going to have this very exciting Vanna
this is very exciting element which is a hood so many of you have been asking
about rain wear and hoods and how to sew a raincoat version of the princess coat
and this is actually sewn in a Gortex type
work so it’s waterproof and windproof Hattie would you like to join the scene
hello Hattie’s first appearance so it is wind
proof weatherproof and then fully lined so you if you join the patreon at the
mid-level tier which is seven dollars you’ll be getting downloadable pattern
elements every month so this month it is the hooded jacket so it’s a different
jacket front it doesn’t have the shawl collar and then the hood and then also a
video showing you how to sew it so that is what’s going on this month it’s been
super exciting so thank you so much for watching