Quilt-As-You-Go Made Modern Book – Strip Quilt


(upbeat music) – Hey guys, it’s Kimberly
from the Fat Quarter Shop and we’re so excited
to have Jera Brandvig, a LECIEN designer, with us. Thanks for joining us. – I’m so excited to be here, thank you. – And she’s gonna show us something I’ve always wanted to learn,
a quilt-as-you-go technique. Her first book is called
Quilt As-You-Go Made Modern and it’s a best-selling C&T book. So the quilt she’s gonna
be showing you today is from the book, so grab the
book and sew along with us. So, Jera, where do we start? – Well, I think the best place to start is talking about batting. So when you quilt as you go,
you wanna make sure you use needle-punch batting, which we have here. The reason being, it also has to be, you wanna make sure
it’s at least 80% cotton because if you start using
battings of polyester, and I’ll show you later, when
you’re quilting as you go you iron your fabric onto the batting so you’ll get a little bit of crispifying. (laughing) For lack of a better word, so 80% cotton, I’ve tried it, it works. So do that and also the
needle punching works great, needle-punch batting is
basically, it’s literally batting that has been held together by being punched together with thousands of like little needles as opposed to being held
together by resins and glues. And it really helps,
since with quilt as you go you’re quilting your
blocks one block at a time and it helps with the natural warping you get when you quilt. – So our first step is to cut blocks– – Mm-hmm.
– Of batting. And so tell me a little bit about that. – [Jera] Yeah, so the rule
of thumb is bigger is better. And I usually do
approximately one inch bigger. And when you’re cutting your batting– – Than your finished block?
– Yeah, so say like your finished block is gonna be a
nine-and-a-half-inch square, cut your batting
approximately 10 and a half by 10 and a half.
– Okay. – And it doesn’t have to be perfect, you don’t have to make sure it’s exactly 10 and a half by 10 and a half. And I have some great
guidelines in this book on some batting cutting techniques as well as a whole section on page 15 where it tells you, you
know, if you want to do crib size, throw size, all the
way up to a king-sized quilt, how many batting blocks you’ll need and how many squares that would equate to and then how much yardage,
how much batting yardage you’d have to buy, or
prepackaged batting as well. – Yeah, I think page 14 and 15 of her book are gonna really help you
make that beautiful quilt. So let’s get to sewing. – So this is a jellyroll-friendly quilt. But for this particular quilt,
I didn’t use a jellyroll, instead I chose nine prints
from the La Conner Collection and they’re each half-yard prints, and then I cut them into
two-and-a-half inch strips. And you can find all of
the fabric requirements that you need in my book,
Quilt As-You-Go Made Modern, and the fabric requirements just depend on what size quilt you decide to make. – Yeah, so the book really
gives you a lot more options. – Yeah and this quilt, so this pattern is in the book but today I’m showing you how
we add lace to this quilt. So that wasn’t mentioned in the book. – [Kimberly] It’s just gonna
add a little bit of extra fun and it’s gonna give you another technique that the book doesn’t
have so we’re just adding a little bit more fun. – [Jera] Yeah, it adds a lot
of charm to your project, or if you’re making a baby quilt it’s a great sensory, sensory quilt. But yeah, it just adds
a lot to your project. – [Kimberly] So let’s cut our
two-and-a-half-inch strips and move to the next step. – So I’ve got my batting
block that we talked about and my two-and-a-half-inch
strips that we talked about and the first thing you
do is you basically just choose whatever strip that
you want for the center. And this is gonna become your guide for all the other strips. So you don’t have to
worry about snipping off the selvage just yet, but
what you do is you just line it up here in the center, take some scissors and then cut it, making
sure that you have, you know, at least a
quarter-inch of extra fabric hanging off the batting. And so what we’re gonna
want to do is sew this so that it’s perfectly
diagonal in the center of your batting block. And to do that, what I like to do is to mark the center of
each end of the strip by just ironing it. Take your strip over to the ironing board, and then I just fold one
end in half like that and then quickly press it. And then repeat with the other end. Like that. Press it. Okay and that gives you a nice
little marking on each end where your center is. And then what you’re going to do is align the center of each end with the corners of your batting block. So here you just kind of
have to, it’s hit or miss, you just have to take a little peek, that one lined up pretty well. And actually that lined up perfectly. And so then, you just pin it there. But, yeah, so the corner
of the batting block is aligned up with that,
with the center of the end of the strip that I pressed. So what I’m gonna do is
just pin that in place. Now you can also take an iron
and just do a quick press if you want, to make sure, it just kinda helps keep
it there, keep it in place. But I’m just gonna go ahead and pin this. And as, you know, the
first block you make, it might seem kinda slow
and maybe a little bit scary if you’ve never tried quilt as you go, but once you make one, the rest just come so easy and you’ll
be making so many blocks. So now that I got this
center strip pinned down, the next thing I’m gonna do
is choose which two strips you want to have on either side of it. So I’m gonna go with this, and you’re just gonna align it. Take your fabric scissors and cut, and again, make sure
that you have at least, you know, a quarter-inch of
fabric hanging off the batting. And then choose a strip that you want on the other side as well. And then once you have
these two strips chosen and your center strip in place, then it’s time to sew. So the first step is to sew this strip onto the middle. So the right sides facing together. Align them up. And make sure, you know, you have that at least one fourth inch
sticking outside of the batting. I didn’t there initially. And then bring it over to the machine, and here I’m using a walking foot and I’m going to sew a
one-fourth-inch seam allowance all the way down the strip. The stitch length I’m using is 2.5. And then open that up and then you’re gonna repeat
on the other side as well. So take your other strip, with the right sides facing together and line it up on the middle strip. You’re using that middle strip as a guide for all the other strips. Bring it over to the sewing machine and then just sew a
one-fourth-inch seam allowance all the way down the strip again. So now that we’ve sewn
the strips on either side of the center strip, we
are going to take the iron and press them so they lay nice and flat. And I actually like to use
the steam setting on my iron. Make sure it lays nice and flat. And then you’re basically going to repeat with the remainder strips. So you’re going to choose
a strip for the next side and then trim so that a little bit
overhangs that batting block. And then do the same for the other side as well. Trim it. And then just like what you
did with these two pieces, you’re going to put them
right sides facing together, take them over to the sewing machine, stitch your one-fourth-inch
seam allowance along the edge and then take it back here and press. And then you just have
two more corners left. So you’ll take your next strip, line it up, trim it. Choose another strip, and this is where you
can get really creative. Just choosing your own strips as you go, kind of like
improvisational-style quilting. Trim it and then repeat again. So you’re going to, with right sides facing together, so your one-fourth-inch
seam allowance, and press. So now that we have all
of the strips sewn on, the next thing that we’re going to do is trim off all the excess fabric sticking outside of the batting. And to do that, I really
recommend getting a rotating cutting mat, this is a
13-inch rotating cutting mat, and this is one of my most-used tools and it’s great for quilt as you go, it really makes this
process go by quickly. So if you don’t have one
yet, go treat yourself to one because you’ll use it a
ton for quilt as you go as well as just
traditional-style quilting. So what you do is you flip over the block so that the batting is facing up and then you just align a ruler along the edge of the batting. And you trim, rotate. Line it up again, trim, rotate. Line it up. Trim, rotate, and then do the final end. And you can see just how nice that is having a rotating cutting mat. How quickly that comes
off, if you have a little, yeah, there you go, just, then you have all these scrap
pieces you just take off. And so now we have a cleaned up block and we’re ready to add the lace. And real quick, I’m using a
60-millimeter rotary cutter. And I first started using
a 60-millimeter cutter for cutting batting, it
can cut up to four layers of batting at a time so
it’s excellent for that. But basically once I
started using this size, I never went back
(chuckling) to the smaller and now I just use it for cutting fabric as well. So now that we have our
block all cleaned up, the next step is to quilt it. But for this quilt, we
are going to add lace. And so I’m going to be
using the La Conner lace. And the really cool and
unique thing about this lace is it has these eyes down
the center of the lace. And in between these eyes
marks the center of the lace so I like to use that as a guide. What you’re going to do is first trim the lace. Like that, so that you have
enough to go right here and then you are going to align this seam with
the center of the eyes. And the cool thing about this lace is you just look right there and see it. And then you can go ahead
and pin it, pin it in place. I just use a couple of pins. And honestly, once you
get going on these blocks, you may feel that you don’t
even need to use pins anymore but if you’re a pinner, maybe
you’ll just keep pinning. Just do what works for you. That’s what I always like to say. So just pin it there so
that it stays in place. And then you’re gonna do the same here. So trim it. And then align those eyes, and there’s really no
right side to the lace. You’re gonna align this seam
with the center of those eyes. And then pin. Okay so now we are going to
attach the lace to the block just by sewing right in between those eyes. Just like I mentioned before. And just remove the pin as you go. Those eyes really work as a great guide. Okay. And now that we’ve attached the lace, the next part is quilting the block. And here you can get as
creative as you want, you can do free-motion quilting, you can, you know, quilt a bunch of, if you have fun stitches
on your sewing machine you can do fun embroidery
stitches going down it. It’s really up to you. What I did is I just kept it simple and I just quilted lines, straight lines
right along the seams. I just love using those seams as a guide. And to do that I basically
just aligned the edge of my foot right along the seam. And I do it on this side as well. And then just keep going until you have your whole block quilted. Okay, so now that we have our
lace attached to our block and the block all quilted, the next step is to square it down using a nine-and-a-half-inch square ruler. And if you recall, we started
with a 10-and-a-half-inch square of batting. And that extra inch of batting is to account for any shrinkage
you may have gotten when you were doing your quilting. But if you use the needle-punch batting that we talked about in the beginning, you should get minimal shrinkage. And so what we’re going to
do is use this diagonal line on your ruler as a guide. And what you’re gonna want
to do is you’re going to want to center this diagonal line
with the center of your strip. So you just place it right on top, and here you really just eyeball it and you can adjust it,
you know, up or down just to make sure you have it as centered as possible. And then what I like to do is just take, this is a one-inch ruler, I just like to take this
and put it right along the diagonal, just to make sure you have approximately an inch on each side. Don’t freak out if you
don’t have a perfect inch because it probably won’t be,
but you just wanna make sure that there’s consistency on each side. And so that looks pretty darn good, just eyeballing it like that. That’s pretty centered. And then the last part is we’re
going to trim off all this excess block, all around the ruler. And again, this is where
the rotating cutting mat really comes in handy. Before you do any cutting, just make sure everything is within your
nine-and-a-half-inch square ruler so that you have, you know, make sure your lace is in there. Okay. Cut, turn. Yeah, this rotating cutting mat is great. If you have the right
tools, it makes it easy. I think I got ’em all just like that. So you remove all the excess and there you go, you have a
lovely quilt-as-you-go block that you made without even
using a precise pattern. So here we have four completed
quilt-as-you-go blocks that have been quilted and all squared up. And so I’m going to show you how to join these blocks together using
the block-to-block method from my first book, Quilt
As-You-Go Made Modern. So what you do is you, right sides facing together. And I’m going to sew a
one-fourth-inch seam allowance right down the block. Be sure, and this is important, that you start and end your
stitch with a backstitch. And since we used lace here, I like to typically just do a quick pin to make sure that the lace lays flat. Okay, and bring it over to the machine. And here you definitely wanna
be using a walking foot. Okay, so here I have sewn,
I’ve attached my blocks within each row together. And as mentioned before, I made sure to start and end my
stitches with a backstitch. And so the next thing that we need to do is flip your row over
and we are going to press this seam so that it lays nice and flat. I like to use the steam setting on the iron, it just makes it go, press flat quicker. Like that. And in the beginning
I talked about batting and how it’s important to
use at least 80% cotton and this is one of the reasons why, ’cause your iron will
have a lot of contact with the batting at this part. Okay, and then just take some scissors and what you’re going to do is just cut the excessive bulk off at
the ends of the seams here. I just kind of do it like a diagonal. Just cutting it off like that. And if you were, you know,
making a full-sized quilt, you would just do that
for your entire row. And so then I’ll repeat on my other row. Press it open so it’s nice and flat. And then just trim off that excess bulk. Like that. Okay, then after you’ve
done that for all the blocks within your row, the last
step here for your quilt top is to join your two rows together. So with the right sides facing together, make sure that the lace lays nice and flat and you’re just gonna want to pin the beginning and end of your rows as well as all the intersections. Place a pin there and at the beginning. And you’ll place a pin at the end and then you just take it back
over to your sewing machine and you’re going to stitch a one-fourth-inch seam allowance going all the way down your row, making sure to start and end
your stitch with a backstitch. Okay so what I’ve done here already is I’ve sewn a
one-fourth-inch seam allowance down my row and I made sure
to start and end my stitch with a back stitch. And just like what I did when
I joined the rows together, I then pressed this seam
open all the way down my row. And then I also went
ahead and cut the bulk off at the ends of this. And so the last step is
to attach your backing. And so with a traditional, here’s how the top looks,
forgot to show that. Comes together beautifully. You know, with a traditional quilt, you have your quilt top, you’re gonna baste
together your quilt top, your batting and your backing fabric and then you’re gonna put
hundreds of pins together and then you’re gonna put the whole quilt underneath your machine and then, you know, do your quilting. And for a lot of people that
can be physically tiresome, or a lot of people kind
of shy away from that. But the cool thing about quilt as you go is you already quilted your blocks so the basting part is
actually really quick and easy. You just, since you’ve
already gotten all of your intricate quilting done and
the batting is attached, minimal pinning is needed to
attach your backing fabric. And so you’ll lay down your backing fabric so that the wrong side is
facing up and then, you know, since this is just like a smaller example, I won’t put painter’s tape but, you know, normally you would put
tape on the corners, and I go over this more in my book, and then you just lay your
already-quilted quilt top on top of the batting and
then what I like to use are curved safety pins. There’s just this little curve in here, I don’t know if you’ve ever tried them, but basically when you pin them, it just, because of that curve, it
just pops right back up like that which is really nifty and it makes pinning quick. So what I do is I like to
place a curved safety pin at all the intersections of your quilt including the beginning
and ends of your rows. So we go here, here, here
and then at the corners, intersection there,
corners, intersection there. And then the way that
you attach the backing is just by doing a simple
stitch in the ditch right along the seams here. And as you go, you just remove
the pins as you’re stitching. And so you’ll stitch in the
ditch all the way down here, and you can just do it,
you know, row by row and then you’ll stitch in the ditch here. And so what you get is a backing, so here’s
the finished quilt here, what you get is a backing
that looks like that. (upbeat music) Where you just kind of
have a grid of stitching. So these were the lines
that I stitched in the ditch in the back. And then all of your intricate
quilting is in the front. And then just choose
your method of binding and you’re all done. (upbeat music) (film reel flickering)
(scissors snipping)