Make an Applique “Inspire” Quilt with Rob!

You know I love my fusible applique quilts
and lettering is super popular right now so I’m hoping today’s tutorial will be a
true inspiration. Let’s get started. That’s right, we’re calling today the
Inspire quilt but I just want you to think you can use any word, any text. I’m going to show you how to make your very
own. And of course I’m hoping I’m always inspiring
all of you at home to try this new stuff. So I’ve chosen the word inspire. Now we’re doing it as technically a reverse
applique. Let me explain why. What I’ve got on my supply list today is
we’re going to use a yard and a quarter of each of the fabrics. I’ve got a solid. Choose whichever one you like. But what I really wanted to bring in was this
wonderful stripe. This is from Free Spirit and Kaffe Fossett
is our designer. And what this is is it’s truly a woven which
means that the threads or yarns are used to create this. So as beautiful as it is and it’s lightweight,
it’s also going to be more likely to unravel. So I didn’t actually use this to create
the word inspire. I’ve done it as a reverse applique. Check this out as we look at the quilt. Now the green striped fabric as I just showed
you, it is actually sitting here as our base layer. And then the blue fabric has been cut out
with the word inspire as relief or reverse applique. And then we just do a little bit of free motion
quilting to bring it all to life. It’s super, super simple. So I’m going to walk you through the steps. And like I said I’m going to ask you to
use whatever text you like. And I just started in google chrome docs program
and I wrote out the word inspire. And then I highlighted it and then I started
playing with different fun fonts. You know you can bold it or you can do the
italics or whatever you like. Once you’ve created your font you can basically
save it. And once it’s been saved you can use this
application I use called for enlargements. Or what you’re looking at on my table here
was the word but I printed it on, what is this, ten different pages from my regular
computer printer. And then I just taped it together with a little
bit of masking tape. If you’ve never used fusible web before,
what it is, Heat N Bond featherlight is my all time favorite. And it is a glue on one side. And it’s a paper on the other. Because of that though it’s going to always
reverse our image, whatever we’re creating it’s going to go backwards on us. So what we need to do is we need to be able
to trace the word inspire here but in the reverse format. And text and computers and reverse is tough
for a lot of us so instead of making it reversed in the computer, we’re going to reverse
it the easy and old fashioned way by flipping it over. But what’s going to help us a ton is this
wonderful cut-a-pillar. This is an incredibly bright light table. So I’m just going to illuminate this so
that I can lay this down on the wrong side. And this is now the back side of the lettering
which is going to give me the reverse. With that I’m going to put my fusible web
down. And I’ve already marked this piece of fusible
web or cut it to fit. And I’m just going to point out some of
my lettering is a little bit long so I’ve just patched on a little bit of fuse down
here that I’m going to trace right through and secure it to the blue fabric on the background. Ok. So then I use a sharpie marker so that is
flows across the fusible background, the paper side, very easily. And then I’m just going to hold it in place
and I’m marking on my lettering. And for the smoothest line possible I try
to drag my whole hand or my whole arm as I’m marking this. And then of course I’m going to be cutting
this here in a moment with my shark rotary cutter which is going to allow me to get a
really clean line. So you’re just making yourself guidelines. You can cut where you need, don’t have to
worry about making this perfect. And then the other thing I’m going to point
out, so in this my font that I chose, I chose a font where most all of my letters are connected. So my I for inspire is singular. But watch this, the rest of my letters as
you’re going to see here are going to connect. And so that connection actually makes all
of this cutting and all of the reverse applique super simple because I’m not dealing with
seven or eight individual letters. See this is connected from one letter to the
next to the next as I go around here. And then I’m just going to trace the top
and bottom lines before I move the pieces on the light box itself. So you can see these letters are connected
and that’s going to make life super, super easy for me. And then I’ll just show you this little
tail piece down in here for the P. This came up here and this is just because my fusible
web was only 17 inches. And I have taped but I have taped not where
I’m going to have my line work just so that I can not have to iron right on the tape. I found that blue tape you can iron on and
scotch tape you should not. And I had scotch tape handy so I put it where
I’m not going to be ironing. Anyway, I think you get the idea. I’m going to go ahead and trace out the
rest of this but I’ve already got the next step ready for us so let me bring that into
camera. Take a moment to clear this out of our way. And the light table we’re not going to be
cutting on top of right now because I don’t have the special mat in place. But here comes the next step, right? So here is my inspire lettering. This is the fusible web. This is the paper side we’re seeing here. Here‘s the blue test that I gave you for
the painters tape. That one I did press on. Now again what we’re looking at here is
the reverse side. And I want to point out that I’ve actually
cut away the exterior because I want about an inch, inch and a half of glue all the way
around. This is going to be the bonding agent here. This part goes away. And if you cut it nicely, as a matter of fact,
this whole lettering will be usable, I’m just not using it on today’s project. So you can actually make two inspire quilts
out of this one set of supplies here. Ok so now to cut this out what I’m going
to do is I’m going to use my shark applicutter here. I’m going to hold it just like a pen so
it’s nice and comfortable. And I’m just going to drop it on this line
and I’m just going to nicely begin my cut. And I’m going to cut out all of these letters
right on the line. And I”m going to just cut those lines out
so that I can make sure I can use the lettering later on another project if I like because
it will be right sides out that way. And as a matter of fact I’m just going to
go ahead now and jump into caffeinated mode, get all of this stuff cut out and I’ll be
right back for the next step. And as I’m coming into this last little
section here I can show you what I mean by using that lettering all over again. And I’m also just taking my time, normally
just spin my fabric when I’m using my shark cutter but because I want it all nice and
flat I’m actually just working slowly around here using my left hand also to kind of control
it and guide it. And there, that should all be set. So now, ya ok perfect. So I was just going to say again, this whole
lettering is now right sides out and I can put this onto a whole different background
for us. But we’re not talking about that today,
we’re doing a reverse applique. So our next set up is going to be we’re
going to get prepared to baste and iron and all of that all at one time. So I’m going to quickly rotate my large
board here so I have the majority of the fabric ready to be pressed down. I’ll start heating my iron up. And I’m going with a dry iron because the
Heat N Bond featherlight does not like any steam settings. I’ve already prepared the back of this. And I apologize, my quilt on the back wall
is 45 by 22. And that was how I was able to maximize the
amount of fabric I have. My lettering was set a little bit tight in
my opinion so maybe figure like 20 inches in your maximum height so that you have a
little bit extra wiggle room because of our fabrics being 44. I think you understand the math on that one. I did take my fabric and turned it sideways
when I cut it so my stripes would be running up and down in my print. So this right now is the quilt top. It is sitting on a piece of batting that is
big enough already. I’ve chosen that. And this should be slightly larger than my
blue reverse applique piece. And I’m just going to take a second and
get this all organized. And I’m going to run my iron over that too. I want to make sure there’s no creases or
major wrinkles or anything in this. See how nice that looks there, ok. And now as I get ready to bring in my lettering,
I’m going to go ahead and flip over and find a nice corner area. And I’m going to start to peel away. And what I want to make sure you can see is
the glue here is on still the blue fabric and not on the paper. So as you peel away, peel slowly. Sometimes the glue doesn’t stick perfectly
to the fabric. I don’t want you to go back and try to iron
again. I just want you to work slowly because the
more glue on the edge for this particular use of this, the better. You see right there, ok this is exactly what
I was talking about. I’m going a little fast where I didn’t
iron real well. So the glue over here isn’t sticking but
the glue on the edge that’s so important to me is. So I’m going to stop there and I’m going
to come at it from another direction. Perfect timing. I didn’t know that was going to happen,
it worked pretty good. Coming from the, and that just happens when
our iron starts to cool. There we go. Ok so see how I peeled this way and then I
was able to drop that glue down. And that’s just going to help. The more glue we have the better. And with the Heat N Bond featherlight it’s
not going to stick to itself but I am still being cautious. Or if you’re using any of the other style
products sometimes they can kind of stick to themselves. So I’m trying not to let this get too much
of a mess on my table. And we’re almost there. Alright. And I’ve also cut out the lettering like
holes for the E and the I and things so I’ve got those set aside as we need them to come
back in as well. I’ll show you where those go. Alright so we have this all set. Now I’m going to quickly flip it over and
drop my blue line up here. At first we’re just going to try to make
sure that this edge is good. And then I’m just going to slowly work all
of this into place as I go around here. And I’m going to just start to put down
all of the lettering. And all we need to do is make sure that the
blue goes down nice and flat on the green stripe. See how great that’s looking like that. Alright. So this is where it counts. Take the time to really get it nice and flat. I’m going to worry about those edges later. Ok, terrific. Now the other thing is with this Heat N Bond
Featherlight is it’s such a fine, light weight fuse we don’t want to iron and iron
and iron near it. We just want to hit it one time. So for example like with my P right here,
when I’m pressing this area I want to already have this piece in. So again I’m just going to peel the paper
off. And make sure I drop this back in. And I believe it goes like that, nope, like
that. And of course you can always return back to
your tracing to make sure you have it the way you like. And I’m just looking at the relief here. That looks good. Ok and I also saw a little glue that’s sticking
out of the edge and I’m going to tuck that underneath. And now my iron is nice and hot. And I’m going to bring it straight down
in this fashion like this. I don’t want to slide the iron around because
if I slide it around I might catch one of these little corners. And then it will go and fold upside down. And so now, and remember we only have an inch
of glue or so around the lettering that we have to iron down. So that’s what I’m looking towards and
I’m just do this all the way through. And then what I do is I put the quilted backing
in place. And then I come through and I hit it with
safety pins for the quick basting. So I’ll do that while you’re all getting
yourself a fresh cup of coffee so when you come back I’ll show you how to do free motion
machine quilting to finish off today’s project. I’ll be right back. Welcome back. Just to show you again what I’ve gone ahead
and done while you were on break is I safety pin basted the quilt top with the reverse
applique. I have the batting in here, the white there. I have the backing. I chose the blue as well. And I did that so that I can use the other
half of the yard and a quarter fabric and save the other half of the yard and a quarter
of the strip for the binding. So that’s the last where the other fabric
goes there. Safety pins are in. I have a wonderful variegated thread in place
in my machine. I’ve got my sew slip mat down. And I’m going to put my little Machinger’s
gloves on here. I have a lot of videos that talk about some
free motion skills and drills. So you see me using stuff all the time if
you need a little more information maybe check out one of those videos because I want to
talk about my first step of security for this whole project. I’m going to come right back to center on
the quilt. And I’m going to begin doing a little bit
of echo stitching or anchor stitching just along the blue around all of the green outlining. So the first thing I need to do is I need
to drop my needle one time, bring it up so I can bring my bobbin thread up. And I can see it but I don’t know if I can
get a hold of it. So I’m just going to go ahead and drop a
few stitches on top of that to secure it. And now I’m just watching, actually that
hole in my presser foot, and I’m trying to trace the blue edge where it touches the
green striped fabric as I go. Let me stop here and organize this so maybe
you can all see a little bit better. And I’m going to go ahead and get this thread
cut out of my way quick. And then my first job is like I said, I’m
going to go ahead and secure all of the outline of the lettering. Once this is done I’ll go back in and I’ll
do the interior of the letters like the P or the E to hold down those extra applique
pieces. This is real fun. It’s also a really great way to practice
free motion machine quilting. You can probably see right here how nicely
using that presser foot hole right there is working as a guideline. I”m just looking at that as my trace as
I go. And then I tell you what why don’t you follow
me back to the quilt and I’ll show you the rest of style of the quilting I’m doing
because once all of that free motion stitching is done here. So that’s where I was and I was following
along here. Then I just bounce out into the rest of the
quilt and I had actually changed my variegated threads and what not. But I was just playing, just filling in. But what I wanted was some larger open swirls
to create some quilted look but not distract from the lettering. And that’s right we’re just accenting
the word you want to create to carry your message in your quilting forward. And these make wonderful gift items as well. So I’ve tried to show you a lot of different
ways to handle the reverse applique. But these are also great ways just to practice
your skills as a quilt maker especially as doing free motion machine quilting. I hope you loved today’s video. Please remember to subscribe if you have not
already. And in the comments below I want to know what
word you’re going to start with. We’ll catch you next time right here at
Man Sewing. Thanks for being a Man Sewing fan. It’s great to have you out there encouraging
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