Machine Quilting on a Panel with Rob


Focusing in on more free motion skills and
drills today. But today is all about target practice. But to make it easy we’re doing it on a
pre printed panel. Let’s get started. We have a bunch of great videos listed in
one of our playlists for you all about the different free motion skills and drills we’ve
been doing. I love to teach this stuff. But I’ve been doing a lot of it on solid
fabrics. And sometimes that’s just kind of hard. It’s kind of overwhelming to be looking
at a blank canvas and say where do I start. Now what I want to do today is I want to talk
about some of these cool pre printed panels. One, because they’re great to machine quilt
on. And two, because they make great gifts when
you’re all done. So this is not, I shouldn’t say waste of
time in the practice but you can really use these when you’re finished. But when I go out and pick and panel to stitch
on, I’m looking for, what is it I want to learn next. And right now I want to get better at straight
line machine quilting but in free motion mode. So I can go into ruler work. I can go into longer straight line work, right? So I’ve chosen this panel today. And if you look close you can see a lot of
straight line work. And the straight line work I want to still
start in the middle of an area. And I have one, how do I get around the sections
and stay, as I said earlier target practice, right on the spaces as I go. And you can see right here, I’m not perfect. You can probably see right here I’m not
perfect. So what I’m first doing is learning to just
stitch straight lines by having something to follow. But as a good quilter would I start in the
middle and I move my way out. Then later on I am still dealing with straight
lines but I’m doing some more intricate curves as well. And what I was practicing here was really
starts and stops because I don’t want to carry a thread from the outside of the flower
to the inside of the flower. So I need to be better at my starts and stops
as well. So pick yourself a panel that you love, that
you want to work on. And if you really want to make it just your
practice panel, remember you can do multiple passes just by changing your thread colors
so that you can see your newer work. So work from your darker threads to your lighter
threads so you can always see your newest work and see how much you are improving. Because I know you are with each stitch. All you need to do is take the panel that
you have. And I took mine and cut it in half so I would
have two parts. I put a regular backing on it. I’ve put the batting that I use very often
so I’m testing my samples I have at home. And then I’ve gone ahead and I’ve safety
pin basted it. And I’m safety pin basting around where
I will not be stitching at first. Even though this looks like the center, and
I do want to start on this square, because in this square I have a curved line that I’ll
be sewing. I want to sew my curves first when possible. Ok so I’m going to sew the curve of this
and then I’m going to sew the curve of the flower. And then I’m going to come back with this
straight line. So that’s why there are no safety pins in
this area. As we get ready to get at our sewing machine
I always have my Sew-Slip mat down. That’s a teflon coating for my machine. And it makes it very, very nice so that I
have a slippery surface underneath. And you see I’m wearing my Machinger’s
gloves. Now what I’m going to do with my presser
foot up, I’m going to take one single hand cranked stitch right where I want to start. And I’m going to bring that thread tail
up from the bobbin as well. And I’m going to smooth this out. Now presser foot down so I have tension on
my thread. I’m going to take a couple of stitches to
lock in. And I’m actually going to go right around
that little spiral that we see in there. And then I’m going to start out along the
sign or the banner, whatever we want to call this. And I’m thinking about staying on the line
but I’m also thinking about, well let’s first take a second. And I’m going to rotate this so you can
really see what I’m going to talk about. I want to cut these threads out of the way
so you don’t have to look at them. Nor do I. Now as I come around, there’s this line
right here that if I keep stitching down this line I am going to have to come back later
and just fill that in. So watch what I do. As I come along close, I’m here. Then I’m just going to quickly fill in that
line. It’s an easy line. And I’m going to do my darndest to come
right back up that same line, fill it in. And now I can continue on. And you probably notice I rotated the quilt
as well but I didn’t rotate it while the needle was moving. So with free motion work we never want to
rotate the quilt while the needle is moving because you’ll see a big stitch. And as I get close to this safety pin I also
want to get in here and remove it. The safety pin was there to hold all the layers,
the backing and the batting and the quilt top together. But I have now stitched enough that I can
get it out of the way. So we’re going to follow through here. I’ll catch the rest of the leaf later when
I do the stem below. And some other things we should talk about. What about my hand position? I can see my right hand is starting to come
a little far away. And you can actually see some of the pucker
that is happening around the quilt. So we also want to practice our really good
body mechanics so this is all about learning how to machine quilt while tracing something
instead of doing something that would basically be a blank canvas where you’re out there
just floating along. Here I’m going to come back up. I’m going to secure as much of this as I
can. And I was talking too much. I have now painted myself in a corner. Let’s see how we do that. I’m just going to try to ride those threads
right back out. Ok I did it. Not too big of a deal. So now as I come around the outside of that
curve. Instead of doubling back again I’m going
to follow a new line. I really don’t ever want to lay down more
than two layers of stitching because the more thread you put on top of itself, it will really
show up. And now I’m just following that line. I’m actually kind of looking just right
behind my foot. It’s obviously hard to do it backwards like
this but with enough practice you get good. But you know if you felt uncomfortable with
it you would stop here. And like I said, you’re just going to go
ahead and rotate the project like this. And you can see where you’re heading so
much more easily. And you can head down there that way. So now we’re talking about starts and stops
and I’m coming right back to a spot where I basically started from. So I’m going to take a few stitches in place. I’m going to lock it down. And then what I want to do is I rotate by
hand up and I’m going to move and tug on my thread here. And if I cut right at the knot a lot of times
I have also now cut my bobbin thread and I’m so proud of myself. Now you saw me going around the squirrel but
while you were off on coffee break I needed to go ahead and go around all of my other
objects within this side of the box because as I said I want to focus on my straight lines. So we work from the center outward when we’re
quilting. And I’m going to do this first inner straight
line next so I can pull the safety pin. I have basically basted the quilt again by
stitching here and over here. So I’m getting my safety pins out of my
way. And then the other thing that I want to really
think about is I want to think about good places to start and stop. And I don’t mean the stitch but I mean,
well I do mean the stitch but I mean the motion of the machine itself. So real quick let’s go ahead and bring that
thread tail up again. So I’ve got the presser foot up. I’m just kind of pulling on my top thread
to bring the bobbin through. And now what I’m going to do is I’m going
to go ahead and secure the stitches again. But what I was trying to say is. This is a straight line. And I really don’t want to stop within that
straight line. So I’m getting my hands nice here. And I’m going to come all the way down to
this bottom corner so that that way, that’s my stopping point. So I’ve got my hands in a position where
I can go to there. Get my machine up, a couple of stitches. And I’m just looking in front of the needle
just slightly. And then if I feel like I need to I can stop
here. And this is where I could rotate the quilt. Now this is a really long straight line so
I’m going to try to go halfway through. And as I go halfway through I’m going to
stop about where my thumb is at. And what we want to do now is I’m going
to relax and re-move my hands. And I don’t want to pull or let too much
of twist because the fiber could actually cause the needle to fall off the target. There we go. If you’re pulling too much. So I just want to get a really good re-start
up stitch. Now I can go all the way down to the bottom
corner. I’ll turn the music up and finish out this
perimeter and I’ve got a couple of things that I want to show you right at the end. I’ll be right back. Ok I’m back to the final corner and just
like before what I want to do is I want to bring the thread to the top and I want to
kind of give a pull and a tug. And look for my scissors and snip right at
that knot. And again I have freed myself from the bobbin
thread as well. And you can see here that I don’t have any
trailing jump stitches but I was also using my thread cutter right in here because it
was convenient. And what that will do for you is it will leave
these little whiskers. So sometimes you need to come back in here
and trim that out. Now you want to take a couple of anchoring
stitches before you use your thread cutter. So either way it’s tied in. And this is all about practice. Excuse me, this is all about practice. And so what I want you to really do is do
it using thread cutter and using the way where we bring our threads up on our scissors. And figure out what it is that you like the
best for your different samples. And I also mentioned early on, you can use
these panels over and over again. Not only by using a new color thread and a
new color bobbin. So a great way to do that is use something
like your little bobbin buddy to keep your bobbin and your threads close together. So that you’re always using the matching
thread. And that really helps you get your tension
dialed in and stuff. It doesn’t have to be the same way but I
like the same colors, right? So you can use that and go around those same
straight lines and you work to the lighter color thread you’ll still be able to see
what you’ve done. And not only that but you also will have some
other space. And I’m getting another idea. I think I want to talk next about maybe some
micro stippling. So areas and background space you could also
go in and practice some of your other type of stitching and free motion motifs while
I’m preparing that micro stitching video for you right here at Man Sewing. Thanks for being a Man Sewing fan. It’s great to have you out there encouraging
me to create fantastic new content. If you’ve missed any of the videos we’ve
got links for you here and here. And when you’re checking those out make
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