Long Jacket Cutting And Stitching | DIY – Tailoring With Usha


hello friends, today m going to teach you cutting and stitching of long open jacket the measurement is like this length 28 inch shoulder to shoulder width 11 inch shoulder length 7 inch chest 36 inch waist length 14 inch waist 28 inch hip length 24 inch hips 38 inch bottom width 20 inch front neck length 3 inch back neck length 3 inch neck width 6 inch length of sleeves 21 inch half arm round 3.75 inch this is my lining cloth above it is sew net designer cloth and make border from this blue coloured fabric first we draft and cut our long jacket from this lining cloth fabric required is double of (total length+3 inch) + sleeves length + 2 inch i.e total length is 38, add 3 in it makes it 41; 41X2=82, sleeves length is 21+2=23 inch; 82+23=105 inch fabric is required it is nearly equal to 2.5 meters cloth is fold in 2 layers, because it is long open jacket, so do front piece drafting from the open side and do back piece drafting from close side first, from top mark all the lengths, total length is 38 inch+3=41 inch, shoulder length 7 inch, waist length 14+0.5=14.5 inch, hips length 24+0.5=24.5 inch now at top widthwise, mark excluding 0.5 inch & then take half of shoulder to shoulder width + 0.5 inch i.e 11/2+0.5=6 inch leave 0.5 inch(sewing seam) widthwise first, cross mark at shoulder length by 6 and 5.5 inch and join’em with upper 6 inch marked point leave 0.5 widthwise, take 1/4 of chest +2 inch i.e 36/4=9+2=11 inch, mark at 9 and 11 inch at waist length, first leave 0.5 inch, then mark 1/4 of waist+2 inch i.e 38/4=7+2=9 inch, mark 7 & 9 inch now join waist marks with chest marks in parallel manner at hip length(leave 0.5 inch widthwise), mark 1/4 of hips + 1.5 inch i.e 38/4=9.5 +1.5=11 inch, mark at 9.5 & 11 inch now join hip length marks to waist marks in a curve manner at total length, (leave 0.5 inch widthwise) then take 1/2 of bottom width +1.5 inch i.e 20/2+1.5=11.5 inch mark straight line now join total length mark to hip length outer mark in straight manner now at top(leave 0.5 inch widthwise) mark half of neck width 6/2=3 inch and make a 0.5 inch slant curve till shoulder length line now do front and back sleeve curving this is our front piece drafting and cutting is done like this after cutting of front piece, now do drafting and cutting of back piece fold the remaining cloth equal to front piece width and place front piece on it and do cutting from close side cutting of back piece is done like this now separate back piece, and do cutting of front sleeve curve for sleeves cutting, first take sleeve length + 2 inch i.e 21+2=23 inch, mark a straight line in width fabric is kept in 4 layers equal to shoulder length + (1 to 1.5 inch) i.e 7+1.5=8.5 inch from open part, take cross length 3.5 inch(range is 2.5 to 4 inch) and at close side mark 1 inch widthwise now join these two marks in curve manner now from open side, mark 1.5 inch on curve and do leaf shape curve for front sleeve drafting at total length of sleeve, mark half arm round + 1 inch widthwise i.e 3.75+1=4.75 inch & join it to with 3.5 inc mark at open part in slant manner cutting is done like this, first cut from total length, then back sleeve, then centre and open it in 2 layers and cut front sleeve curve this is our long jacket lining cutting, this is front piece, sleeves and back piece and now place it on net fabric and pin up it then cut equal to these pieces and then sew lining fabric with net by cut stitching after that i’l proceed further now we sew this 3 inch wide contrast coloured strip at front open part, matching right of sleeves and wrong of jacket and sew it straight on both front pieces after this, open it like this and do press stitching on both front pieces now take it to right side and fold it(not completely so that white coloured fabric doesn’t show up) and sew it straight alongside after this stitching, mark 1.75 inch lengthwise on both pieces and fold strip from this marked point like this and sew it straight follow the same procedure for sewing contrast coloured strip at sleeves and after that now do drafting and cutting of neck, it is open at front so for it, take 0.5 to 1 inch extra in width i.e neck width is 3 inch, i took 4 inch on fusion paper and front neck length is 3 inch, so i took 4 inch now make a box and do curving of front neck, this is our front neck drafting on fusion paper for back neck, take required length and width, i.e in width take 3 inch and in length take 4 inch, make box and do drafting after drafting, mark 2.5 inch extra(strip stitching at neck portion) alongside the curving and cut it this is front neck piece, cut it from middle also now cut back piece now paste this pattern on contrast coloured strip now mark 3 inch(neck width) widthwise on wrong side of front jacket pieces and pin up it placing neck pattern on it and after that sew neck pattern from inner curve manner with front jacket pieces, after this mark centre of back neck and back jacket piece, pin up it and sew’em on wrong side now do cutting 0.5 inch inner side from inner sewed curved and mark small cuts and then take neck to right side and the do stitching now take neck pattern to right side, you can simply stitch it by folding it like this or you can make a design by folding it like this and sew it i’l first pin up it and then do stitching alongside neck curve first we do stitching of front neck like this and then attach it with back neck and then do back neck stitching like this one and undo the inner side temporary stitching after this, match right to right both front pieces and back piece and sew shoulders and mark fitting lines after sewing fitting lines, we joined sleeves(how- link in description) and now come to bottom and sew and join strip at bottom as we did on the front open part after doing all this, i’l upload an image of it in next video i’l teach you a new cutting/stitching in simple way..thank you 🙂