Learn How to Make a Quilt – Make Quilt Block 7 – Flying Geese Zig Zags Block | Fat Quarter Shop


(energetic music) – Welcome to the Ultimate
Beginner Quilt series by Fat Quarter Shop. In this series, I’m gonna be showing you how to make a quilt all the way from the start to the finish. This series is sponsored by Moda Fabrics and EverSewn Sewing Machines. I’m gonna be giving you lots of tips, and we’re gonna be building
our first quilt together. (energetic music) In this video, we’ll
be making Block Seven, which is our Flying Geese Zig-zag block. It is going to be the most difficult block in the whole series, but I’ve got lots of
tips and tricks for you, and I know that you’ve got
the confidence to do this. So let’s get started. So we’re going to be using four fabrics, and from each of the fabrics we’re gonna be cutting identical pieces. So from each of the fabrics, we’re gonna cut two 3 1/2
by 6 1/2-inch rectangles and four 3 1/2-inch squares. They’re all gonna be
labeled between A and H, and the reason we do
that is so that it’s easy for you to follow your pattern. So let’s start cutting. So we have four fabrics left, and this one we don’t have very much of, so I’m gonna cut this
one completely separate. With the others, these two I have a long enough strip. And this one’s kind of wonky, so I’m gonna set the
brown and the pink aside, and we’re gonna cut those separately. From these two fabrics we’re gonna cut two 3 1/2-inch strips. So I’ve done a clearing cut that’s just gonna straighten the edges. I’m gonna cut on a 3 1/2-inch line, pull my fabric gently, and I’m gonna cut
another 3 1/2-inch strip. Just follow the line. If you’re cutting and you cut like this, which is not on 3 1/2, your
units will be too small, so cutting is really important. So we will pull this. We’re gonna cut two 6 1/2-inch rectangles. So we can actually cut on
one side to get a clean cut. Rotate your fabrics, and when
you’re moving your fabrics you wanna keep the bottom
and the top fabrics together. And we can label these
with our Alphabitties at the very end. So we’re gonna cut a 6 1/2-inch rectangle, another 6 1/2-inch rectangle, put these on my design board,
we’ll label them later. And we’re gonna cut
four 3 1/2-inch squares, so I can cut a 3 1/2 from
this that’s left over. This is too small to cut from, so I’m gonna set that aside, put this on my design board, and we have three more 3
1/2-inch squares to cut. So just line up the top and the side. And then you can save this leftover strip for a future block, put these on our design board, and I’m gonna start with the brown. I’m going to just cut
two 3 1/2-inch strips. And I think I will need one more still. I think I’m gonna need a little bit more, but let me first cut
6 1/2-inch rectangles. So from here you can line up your fabrics and put them together. Make sure they’re straight. Make a straightening cut on one side. Rotate your fabrics. And cut a 6 1/2-inch square, rectangle, 6 1/2-inch rectangle. There’s two of those, and now we’re gonna cut
four 3 1/2-inch squares. So there’s two, but we need two more, so we’re gonna put these aside and we’re gonna look and see
if this is seven inches wide ’cause 3 1/2 plus 3 1/2 is seven, so I can get two across here. So I’m going to cut this
way instead of long way so that we have a big piece
if we need that in the future. So we’ve got 3 1/2, and we barely have seven inches, so we’re just gonna cut a
skinny straightening line. Rotate and cut two more 3 1/2-inch. So we have three of our fabrics cut, and it’s okay to cut, you
could cut all four individually if you wanted to. So now we have our smallest piece, which is the pink, and you can sit and you can think through
all the measurements, or I like to cheat. That’s why I cut the easiest ones first. So anytime I’m doing something, I usually do the easiest
first and move to the hardest. So you can take pieces you just cut and think through how you think it would be best to cut them. So you can do it this way or this way, but now we know that it fits. So I think what I’m gonna do is I’m gonna cut four strips
that are 3 1/2 and then subcut. Or you could just do
the math in your head. You can do it any way you want. But I think that is the easiest way. You don’t have to think
as much, and it’s quicker. So we’re gonna cut four 3
1/2-inch strips to start, and as you move on in your quilt, your pieces are gonna
get smaller and smaller ’cause we’ve been using them throughout, and so if you just cut
your biggest piece first and go down to your smallest,
it’ll be really easy. So what I think I’ll do first is cut two 6 1/2-inch rectangles, and I’m gonna show you a shortcut. Now you’re a beginner,
if you’re a beginner, I don’t know if I would try this, but it is something that can save time. So you have got your 6 1/2-inch ruler. What you could do is cut on one side, and instead of rotating it, cut backwards. But I would only recommend that if you have a lot of experience. But that can save you time. So there are my rectangles, and now we’re gonna cut squares, so I’m just gonna line these up. Do a straightening cut. Rotate and cut two 3 1/2-inch squares. And since we have two layered, that’s gonna give us our four. So again, from four fabrics we cut two 3 1/2-inch rectangles from each and four 3 1/2-inch squares from each. So now we’re gonna take our design board, put our pattern next to it, and we’ll divide our fabrics out. So from A is gonna be brown rectangles, B brown squares. C will be your coral rectangles, and D will be your coral squares. And so you can see as
your blocks get harder how the Alphabitties
really come into play, whereas maybe in some of the
blocks it didn’t make sense, but now it’s gonna
really start making sense why we use these. Our Es are gonna be our pink rectangles. Our Fs are our pink squares. G is gonna be your lime rectangles. And H will be your squares. So we have this all ready to go, and then we’re gonna move on to piecing. So your first step that will save you time is if on all of your squares if you draw a line on the
wrong side of each square. So I’m gonna go ahead and do that. Now if you’re working with a print fabric, just make sure you’re on the wrong side. Since we’re working with solids, there really isn’t a
wrong or a right side. I like to use this Frixion pen. The ink will disappear with heat later. There are lots of marking
tools you can use, so just use whichever one that you prefer, but my favorite is the Frixion pen. (energetic music) The first step is to make two flying geese that have fabric A and fabric D. So I’m gonna pull these out, and then I can move
these up out of my way. And we’re going to put
one square on the top. You will have a point in the middle and a point in the side. And we’re gonna do two just like this. First we’re going to pin them, and I’m gonna pin where you don’t go inside any of the lines. Okay, so now we’re gonna
start with this one. We’re gonna go to our sewing machine, put an open-toe foot and stitch
directly on these two lines. So we’re gonna start with leaders, which is something we talked about in one of our previous videos. It just gets your thread going. And from here you can start
at this point or this point. I think it’s easier to start
from this inside point. It really doesn’t matter, though. You’re just gonna stitch
directly on that line. (machine whirs) And if your fabric moves, you’re just gonna wanna
move it a little bit. (machine whirs) You wanna end right at that point. And we’re gonna do the
same thing over here. (machine whirs) And we’re gonna use an ender, and we’re gonna use leaders
and enders on this one since we’re doing a lot
of starting and stopping. (machine whirs) And now we’re gonna go
back to our cutting table. So you’re gonna set your seam. Setting your seam just
means putting a little bit of pressure on your seams. It’s gonna lock those
stitches in with your fabric. Now throughout this pattern, you’re gonna wanna pay attention
to your pressing arrows. On this flying geese you
press out towards the outside. So I’m gonna finger press that, put my iron right on this edge. It’s nice and flat. Do the same thing on the second one. And then we’re gonna add the other side of our flying geese to finish it off. So we’ll place these, and you’ll see that there’s an intersection
right in the center. And again I’m going to pin, and we will go to our sewing machine and stitch this line on both of our units. Before you sew this second line, just make sure that you’ve got two points on the outside and one
point on the inside. (machine whirs) When you’re sewing your second one, it’s easier to start on this outside point rather than the inside point because the inside point
is gonna have more bulk, so that’s why I’m starting
on the outside this time. (machine whirs) And now we can go press. Before we press, we need to trim, again, a quarter inch away
from your stitched line. You can also use just big scissors, it’s totally up to you on what you use, or you can use a rotary cutter. But scissors sometimes can save time. So we’re gonna press those flat. Press according to your pattern, and on this one we’re
gonna go again to the pink. So now you have two flying geese, and you can take a ruler and check to make sure your point
is a quarter inch away. And if it is, that’s great, and if it’s not, what you wanna do is when you’re placing your
square on your rectangle, you really need to start your
intersection in each corner. So you’ll start exactly in that corner and exactly in that corner. And so if you’re sewing
a little bit to the left or the little bit to the
right of that intersection, that is what’s going to be
getting you a little bit off. You’ve made your first two flying geese, and we’re gonna make six more. You’re gonna follow your pattern closely, but what I like to do to save time is okay, the C and the
B are gonna go together, so I’m gonna pin these. So I’ve got those ready to go
at the sewing machine table. And then you’re gonna move these, and your E and your Hs
are gonna go together. So we’re gonna go ahead
and get these pinned. And your G and your Fs
are gonna go together. And so at this point, you can kind of chain
piece them all together. So now I’m gonna go to the sewing machine, and I’m gonna stitch
down all of these lines, and then we’re gonna come back and press. (machine whirs) And if you’re having inaccuracies with your quarter inch not
being away from your point, you just wanna make sure right here you start right at the point. (machine whirs) And when you get to the end,
you sew directly to the point and all of these fabrics are
lined up right in the corner. (machine whirs) So I’m looking at this one,
and it’s not lined up exactly, so I’m gonna re-pin this so
that it’s more in position. (machine whirs) And now we’re gonna cut
all of our pieces apart and go to our ironing table. So we’re going to, again, trim approximately a quarter inch away. Again, you can use your rotary
cutter or your scissors. I kind of do it either
way in my sewing room. Sometimes I use my scissors,
sometimes use my rotary cutter. I don’t really have one way that I prefer. I just do it whichever way is
most convenient at the time. So get all of these off. And what we’re going to do is on all of your brown and coral, you’ll be pressing toward the outside. So we’re gonna press this one the same way we did our previous step. And put those on our design board. Now the pink and the lime we’re
gonna press the opposite way so that our seams nest. So we’re going to press
those toward the inside, which can be more complicated. It’s harder because you’ve got, you’re pressing towards a bigger piece, so I like to really
finger press that down. And so you’re gonna do
these towards the inside on the pinks and greens. And this, I’m gonna show
you one way to not do it. I’m gonna show it to you. Let’s just assume that
you don’t finger press and you just iron, and
you don’t use the corner to smooth that in, and
you just press down. You’re gonna have a duck pleat, and that duck pleat means that
there’s gathers right there, and so you’re gonna see a crease. If you stitch on that, you’re gonna have a big
crease in your quilt. So you wanna not do that. Okay, so we’ve got them all pressed. We’re gonna bring our design board back. And we’re going to add the last square. And again, you’re gonna have
one point on the outside and one point on the inside, and if you need to, if you’re a beginner and you really need to see, you can just flip that
back, and you can see that that is a flying geese, so that if you did it this
way and you flipped it back, that is not a flying geese. So you can always feel
free to kind of flip it before you sew it ’cause
it’s easier to fix it now than to unpick it or seam rip it. Okay, so we’re just gonna
pin the rest of these, and just remember this one
is your hardest block yet, so if you get frustrated just walk away, have a little snack, take a little nap and then come back and keep going. And it’s okay, especially
when you’re a beginner if you get frustrated, that’s okay. I think the best thing to do
is just take a little break and then come back to it. And with quilting it’s
just like anything else. Experience really helps you with it. So when you start, it’s
hard for everybody, but as you get used to it, it kinda just becomes muscle memory, and you just know exactly what to do. It’s just like driving a car. When you get in a car
and you’re 16 years old, you have no idea what to do. You have to really think oh,
I’ve gotta turn the engine on, I’ve gotta back up. And now that when you’re an adult, you’re just like oh, that’s
just how you drive a car, you don’t even have to think about it. So quilting is kind of like that. As you get the hang of it, you’ll just be not even having to think. It’ll just come to you instinctively. Okay, so now we’ve got all of this pinned, and we’re gonna go sew
again the final seams to our flying geese. (machine whirs) Okay, so I’m gonna show you one that is how to not do it. So if you have this lined
up too far over here, when you pull this back, you’re not gonna have a quarter inch, you’re gonna have an eighth of an inch. If you pull this too far this way, you’re gonna have a big old
green spot hanging over. So you really just want this to intersect right on the very edge. So now that I moved that
around, I’m gonna pin it back. (machine whirs) And if you sew too far this way or too far this way, it’s gonna make this not be a 90% angle. If you think you’ve
sewn off in a direction, it’s easier to go ahead and unstitch it and restitch it now before
you trim that quarter inch off ’cause once you get the quarter inch off, it’s harder to line up the edges. You can’t really, there’s
not a spot to go back to. (machine whirs) I’m gonna cut my leader
off and use it as my ender. (machine whirs) And cut these apart, and we will go press and have eight flying geese. So when you’re using scissors, you’ll want to have long blades, and you want to use fabric
scissors, not paper scissors. And don’t let your kids
touch these scissors ’cause then they’re gonna become dull, and it’s gonna be harder to get that cut. So we’re gonna go back, and again our brown and
coral, we’re gonna press out. Set your seam, finger press and then put
the very edge of your iron right on that seam. And on the pink and lime we’re gonna press toward the inside, which again now you’re
gonna have much bulkier because now you’ve got a
intersection to go towards, two seams intersection, so you’re just gonna really flatten that
out before you press down. So now you have these all done, you can check your intersection. If your intersection is too
fat, you could trim it slightly with the rotary cutter. And if it’s too small, I
would probably redo it. So I’m just making sure that my quarter inch hits right there. And flying geese can be very
hard if you’re a beginner, so if they’re not perfect the first time, they’re gonna get better. Just like driving, you’re
gonna get better as you go. So I just don’t want you to
get frustrated on this block because it can be very complicated. So now I have eight flying geese, and I’m gonna kinda put
the colors together. So I’ve got brown in the center first, coral in the center, and then I’ve got pink in the center going the opposite direction and green in the center
going the opposite direction. So you can see in this row we have four different flying geese. And going the other way, we’re gonna have pink in the
center, lime in the center. And I can see right here, looky there. Look at that, that is
horrible ironing right there. You see that duck pleat? I’ve gotta fix that. I would cry if that was in my quilt. So you just fix that,
press that down, oh no. Green in the center, brown in the center and coral in the center. So I kind of, when you get to something that has two colors, just pick which, do you wanna be looking at
the inside or the outside. So I’m gonna triple check
this just against my pattern and see if I’ve got the points and the colors going the right way. And of course honestly,
if you make a mistake, nobody’s gonna really see. But what it’s doing
here is it’s making this kinda like an arrow and an arrow, an arrow and an arrow. So that’s kinda the artwork we’re doing. So I’m gonna turn this this direction ’cause I think it’s easier
to pin this direction. Think it’ll be easier
to sew down this line, so I’m gonna put all of
these right side together. This is when you see that a design board is absolutely necessary. So when you’re working on
some of the easier blocks, you might have thought why
is she using a design board, she doesn’t need it. Well now you’re gonna see you really do. So I’m gonna pin, always first on the section that doesn’t have an intersection. And then I’m gonna pin, I’m
gonna basically you start just like this, just anywhere, and you just put your fingers, and you just push the
seams into each other, and they just nest. And you should be able to feel it. So again, when you’re
pinning this intersection, you don’t wanna pin like this
because that’s not straight. So you gotta be right on that edge. And so pinning really
does help on accuracy. Sometimes people think
oh, I don’t wanna pin because it’s too much time. Well then you’re gonna have to seam rip. Okay, so we’ve got that right there, and just put it right
back on your design board where it was. So again on this one, I’m gonna
first go to the intersection that’s easy, finger press this down, and you’ll feel it lock. You’ll feel it lock even if
you press open on all of these, you can feel it lock. And that’s kind of something
that you’ll just get used to. Okay, so here I’m gonna just lock it in, and then we’re gonna go
to our sewing machine. We’re gonna change our foot
to a quarter inch foot, and we’re gonna stitch all the way down; And do not cut your
threads when you’re done because you’re gonna
keep that chain together so when you come back you don’t
have to re-lay it back out ’cause it’s all chained together. (machine whirs) So I like to keep the pin
in until I get right to it. (machine whirs) Okay, now here before we
go to the ironing board, I’m gonna open all of my seams and make sure that the
intersection is nice. And if any of them are not nice, I’m going to redo them. And if you don’t wanna redo
them, you don’t have to. It’s totally personal preference. There we go. Okay, so now you can see
it’s all chained together. And if you didn’t do it that way, then just take your time
and lay everything back out. And we’re going to just
press opposing directions. I’m gonna press this one this direction. This one the other direction, and you’re gonna notice
that I did my piecing slightly different than the pattern, and that’s okay, you’re
gonna get the same result. And you basically just want to press everything a different direction. And I kinda just did it my way just to show you that
when you’re quilting, you can do it however you want. You can go a little bit off script and everything will be okay. So now I’m going to just press. And you notice when I’m
pressing these intersections I’m not pressing the whole thing. I’m just kinda pressing
that one intersection. And whether you assemble
the block the way I did or way the pattern is,
it really doesn’t matter. You’re gonna get the same result. So now I’m gonna put
this on my design board, and I’m gonna show you a little trick which is to save you time. Now it’s all connected, right? So what you can do is you can press those, you can stitch those and
these at the same time. Stop, press, and then do
your center at the end. So it’s kinda a little trick to save time. So the first thing we’re going to do is put these right side together, and we’re gonna nest the seam. You’re just gonna make
sure you feel it nest. I am gonna do two pins. If there’s a lot of
bulk, I will do two pins. If there’s just a little
bit of an intersection, I will just do it once. And on this side, you just
get the corners together. You don’t have to nest anything. And I’m going to also pin right here. Now this is a quarter
inch seam right here, so if you pin too far up or too far down, that’s gonna affect the accuracy, so just pin right in the center so that you make sure your
fabrics are lined up together. Pin at the end, and the same thing here is
there’s an intersection here, so you wanna make sure that
these are lined up right there. And we can turn our board around, and we can go ahead and iron this side. Or we can go ahead and pin this side. So just make sure your seams nest. Pin on each side. And you’ve got a lot of bulk there, so sometimes when you pin it
might be a little bit harder. Pin on the intersection of the end and in the center. So we’ve got two sides pinned, and what I’m gonna do is
I’m gonna stitch here, stop, stitch here, and then
we’re gonna come back and iron, and we’ll only have one seam left. So thanks for hanging in there with me. So I’m gonna sew on the side where I can see the little intersection so that you can kind of sew and see what you’re sewing so you don’t go too high or too low. So let’s just start stitching. (machine whirs) And so when you’re sewing, you can just be a little
bit to the right of that, or you can just sew and
hope it comes out best. But I think it’s, you can just see and you’re just going
right to the right of that, you’re just gonna keep sewing. (machine whirs) Okay now you can see on this one, we’re not gonna be able
to see that intersection because of the way we pressed, so we’re just gonna hope
that that one works. But when you’re sewing,
you want to make sure that you don’t sew it back this way. You wanna keep it this way. And it’s gonna be pretty bulky, so you’re just gonna
go a little bit slower when you get to it. And you wanna keep it nice and flat, and you’re just gonna
hope that your seam works. (machine whirs) Okay, so now we’re gonna go
and do the other side first, and then we’ll come back
and check our seams. So again you could stitch
on this side or this side, but I wanna stitch on this side so I can sew right to the edge of that. (machine whirs) And I’m kinda putting my finger over it so that it keeps that fabric flat so that when it goes under the
presser foot it stays flat. And then I can move it, and you can just move
your fabric slightly. (machine whirs) And this seam is really bulky, so sometimes you have to slow down when you get to it because it kind of, sometimes your foot will, and again here. (machine whirs) I’m just keeping my finger right on there to keep it flat to go
flatly through the machine. (machine whirs) We’re gonna end with an ender, and then we are going to look and see what we need to adjust if we need to adjust anything. I would assume we probably do, since this is a more difficult block. So that is nice and perfect,
perfect, perfect, woohoo. Let’s check my other ones. So I’m gonna look at my other side, and I’ve got all, everything
is sewn correctly, and let’s pretend that this one isn’t. If it’s not, you would come back, and you could seam rip from here to here, re-pin and restitch, and when you restitch you’ll wanna stitch on
top of previous stitches. But you wanna get it
right before we go iron, and now we can go iron. Okay, so we’re gonna flatten those seams. And you’re just gonna press to one side. You’ve got a lot of bulk, so you wanna get it nice and flat. And I don’t want you to get discouraged if when you stitch your seams
don’t line up perfectly. I’ve been sewing for 25 years, so I actually just got lucky there. So don’t get frustrated. This iron’s a little hot. Okay, so now we’re going
to put this together. Now this is where it’s gonna get tricky because you can see there’s
a point and a point, and these, all four of these
points are gonna have to match. So I’m actually gonna cut this apart, flip it together and show you what I do. So I’m gonna turn this
right side together. Right where there is an
intersection right there I’m going to put my pin in. I’m gonna look, and that pin
comes right at that point. And then I’m gonna put
the pin in the next point. I’m going to kind of keep my
seams straight up and down, leave that pin in. Pin to the left and the right so it keeps it flat. And that is gonna be a lot of bulk. That’s gonna be the most bulk you have in the entire quilt. Now you can remove this. We’ll pin on each end, and
now these seams need to nest. So you’re gonna put your finger there. And you won’t have an
intersection here on these. This time you won’t have
an intersection here, you’re just gonna have it here. So you will nest these seams, and then we’ve just got
one seam left to do, in the hardest block of the whole quilt. You’re almost done. (machine whirs) And here when you’re stitching, you just wanna make sure you
keep your fabrics lined up, that they don’t get off-balance. If they do you can always
put your finger underneath and pull it back. (machine whirs) And now you’re getting
to this intersection, so it’s gonna get kinda bulky. You’re just gonna go slow. And you can see where
that intersection is, so you can be a little
bit to the right of it, but with all of that bulk right there, sometimes it’s hard to see. (machine whirs) And I can see right now
my green is poking out right there, and I don’t
want that to poke out, so I’m gonna pull it from the bottom to get it straighter and just keep going. (machine whirs) And then we’re gonna check our seams. (machine whirs) And we’re going to see
how it looks, let’s see. Fingers crossed, so that
intersection looks nice. That one looks perfect,
so my poke-a-pin worked. And my edge looks perfect, so all we’ve gotta do is iron. So now we’re gonna set our seam. And this, you’re gonna have a lot of bulk, so you can see how if you started ironing, you’ve got a big thing right there. You’ve gotta really press it down. And put your edge of your
iron right on that center. And the block came out really nice. I really like it. And we’re just gonna trim
the slivers off next. So to trim this block up is gonna be a little bit
trickier than the others ’cause you’ve got a lot
of seams on the edge. But this is one I really
like to trim it up. So you’re just really
trimming the slivers off. I’m gonna line my ruler on the side, and I’m gonna line up all three a quarter inch away and trim. And this one you’re gonna
see a little bit more fabric comes off because there’s a lot of seams. We’re gonna turn it, and on
this one we’re gonna line it up with the quarter inch, a
quarter inch and the top. So we’re gonna line this up at the top, quarter inch, quarter inch. And I can see on this corner right here it’s not an exact 90%, so I’m gonna trim a little bit more off. And you don’t have to be that particular. You really don’t have to be. I just happen to be. So again, line up the bottom and these two, and I can tell I’m a little bit off here, too, but I’ve got the two quarter inch seams. And then here I’m gonna then
line up the quarter inch with the three intersections, and I’m gonna trim. So this is our beautiful Block Seven, and now you can really see those arrows I was talking about. So you can see the lime
arrow, coral arrow, pink arrow and brown arrow and how it gives you a beautiful design. I can’t wait to see all
of your Block Sevens. I hope this block really
gives you the confidence to try a hard block in the future. I would love for you to
subscribe to our YouTube channel, and I’ll see you next
week for Block Eight. (energetic music)