Knitting Help – Setting in Sleeves


[music] i’m going to demonstrate to you how to set
in sleeves on a pieced and seamed sweater. and i’ve demonstrated this technique before,
but inside of a bigger tutorial. so i want to break it out and show you how
to do this for really any sweater you’re knitting that has pieces to it. and when i say that, i mean a pullover that
has a separate front, back, and two sleeves, so four pieces. or a cardigan that has two fronts, two sleeves,
and a back. and then you’re going to seam it up like you
would a fabric pattern. you seam the whole thing together to make
a sweater out of it. a lot of the sweater patterns that i have
out are for top-down raglan sweaters that don’t require seaming. sweaters that require seaming do offer more
of a tailored structure to them. i think they’re great, i like both. top-down raglans are obviously easier to fit
and finish, but the work you put into a seamed sweater is worth it. but setting in the sleeves is probably the
most complicated part. it isn’t as straightforward stitch to stitch
as you’re seaming up the side seams and things like that. let’s go ahead and take a look. here is my sweater. and we panned out the camera a little bit
here to really fit as much of this as possible. this side, this sleeve is already seamed. and here is a cardigan front, here is a cardigan
front, and here is the open spot where my next sleeve needs to go. this is the shoulder seam. i’ve already seamed that, and these are my
armholes. right here, and right here. and, this is my sleeve. and you’ll notice that things are smooth and
looking pretty nice, because i did already steam block these items, to make them flat,
to make seaming easier. and if you’d like to see my video on steam
blocking, i’ll give you a link right here. now, the trick is, with setting in a sleeve,
is that we have decreases and decreases and flat parts, and things don’t match up stitch
for stitch. so when you’re seaming the sides, it’s side
to side. and when you’re seaming the shoulders, it’s
this way, uh, stitch for stitch. but with sleeves you end up with some of this,
and some of this, and some of this [laughs] and some of this! so it has to be eased. and that’s what we’re going to learn to do. here’s my shoulder seam, which will be the
very center of the arm hole, and here is the top of the sleeve cap. everything from here up being the sleeve cap. i’m going to fold the sleeve cap in half to
find the very very center of it. and then i’m going to take a clippie marker,
and put it right into the very center of that. okay. so now i know where i want the center of my
sleeve cap to fit into my shoulder seam here. and all i’m going to do is clip that in, right
there. there’s our first guideline. okay, everything has to work from there. and then the next thing I know that is going
to match up is over here at the very edge. the very – this is going to end up being the
very armpit. the very armpit of it. [laughs] the very center of the underarm is right here. so i can clip these two pieces together. those are my two “knowns”. everything else is going to be something that
i ease together and figure out. so with those two things right there, i’m
going to just keep splitting the difference, and figuring out how to match things up. and so i’m going to match things up until
they look pretty good, and everything matches. okay, and everything seems to be matching
up pretty well. that’s the sign of a pattern that’s well written. when the sleeve fits in well. so, everything looks good, i will put another
clippie marker there. and now i’m just going to keep splitting the
difference again. match this up. looks good. put a clippie in there. and there’s the last big gap i have. so i’ll match this up, and put a clippie in
there. now, of course, this just all worked out beautifully. and if you are having any issues with it matching
up well, what you want to do is to make sure that this is all very smooth. and if there is any part that isn’t matching
or you have to fudge something to make it work, you want it to happen in the armpit. not on the shoulder. you want the shoulder to be beautiful and
perfect as far down as it can be, and then do any fudging where you’re skipping stitches
or, yeah, mostly skipping stitches to make the two halves match, in the armpit. okay, so you have this perfect, you’ll get
this side perfect. and then when you start seaming, you’re going
to do the mattress stitch, which is what, uh, unless your pattern says something different,
you’ll want to use the mattress stitch. and you’ll want to start – you’ll want to
do actually two seams for setting in the sleeves. you want to start here, and go down. and start here and go down. and that is so that everything is beautiful
and perfect on the shoulder. that is the goal here. to make sure that there is the best part of
your work is the most visible part, right up here on the shoulder. and then once you have the entire sleeve sewn
in like this, you can fold the sweater in half, probably better to show you on the other
side. and you can start here at the sleeve cuff,
or here at the bottom of the sweater, and then just go all the way up the entire sweater,
into the underarm, and down the sleeve in one big seam. and that is probably the most complicated
part of putting together a pieced sweater. setting in the sleeves. good luck. [whooshing sounds] [music]