Karina Patchwork Wallet Clutch Tutorial | Part 2 – Sewing the credit card pockets and zipper pocket


Prepare your card pocket piece and with
the interfacing as well and go ahead and fuse them once you’ve done that you want to take
your ruler and your fabric marker, you’re going to draw some pleat lines on the
wrong side, here I’ve drawn my lines and I’ve put the distance measurement of
each line so you may go ahead and screenshot this and draw exactly just
like this I hope you can read my handwriting here now we’re going to
start folding from this 2 1/2″ inch line so I’m going to line up my
ruler with the fold line and fold my fabric towards the wrong side then I’m
going to finger press that for now, turn your fabric so the right side will be
facing up I’m going to take my ruler and line it up with the second line and then
fold that towards the right side now turn this piece back wrong side up
and go ahead and fold on that 2 1/2″ line then turn this
piece right side up again and find the next line which is there 1 3/4″
line and do the same fold that line so you want to keep
alternating the fold until you get to the last fold line so you will end up with three fold lines
and this will give you six card slots now go ahead and give this a good press
next you’re going to topstitch all these folded edges i topstitch with 1/8″
of seam allowance and you may want to set your stitch length a slight
longer just to make it looking nice I set my stitch length to be 2.8mm.
Take your ruler and measure in 4 1/4″ from the side which
is the center of your pocket piece then you wanna draw a vertical line with
your fabric marker from that point then go ahead and sew on that line. You want to
sew this from the bottom to the top just so you don’t have to mess with the
folded edges then you want a baste stitch the sides here with 1/4 of seam
allowance just to secure the pleats so it will not shift around, once you’ve
done that take your pocket lining piece and lay these right side together place
some sewing clips to secure them in place then go ahead and sew the top and
bottom with 1/4″of seam allowance then go ahead and turn this piece inside
out through the side then go ahead and give that a quick press then top stitch
the upper top here and that’s it guys now you’re going to make another piece
identical to this now we are going to work on the zipper pocket so prepare your
zipper your zipper should be measuring 7″ which is referring to the
length of your zipper teeth my zipper was actually measuring 8″ so I
had to cut off an inch away from the end of the zipper now we are going to make
the zipper tab so you will need to cut a couple scraps of one inch wide fabric,
the length should be around 3″ now you want to fold this fabric in half
just like so and lay that on your zipper end, pin that in place and then you wanna
go ahead and do the same with the other side then you’re going to sew along
the edges of the fold prepare all of your four zipper pocket
panels and you should interface them all with the fusible woven interfacing so
here is my zipper with the zipper tabs already sewn line that up on one of the
zipper pocket and whatever excess fabric from the zipper tab you can go ahead and
trim that off take one of your zipper pocket panel lay that right side up and
then lay your zipper right side down then take the other zipper pocket piece
and lay that right side down secure this zipper sandwich with some fabric clips
then go ahead and sew along the edges about 1/4″ of seam allowance I’m
using a regular presser foot here however I moved my needle all the way to
the left and I used the 1/8″ seam allowance gauge instead this way
the presser foot will have a little extra room to wiggle, once you’ve done
sewing you want to go ahead and open up this sandwich and smoothen up the edges
I’m going to use my Hera marker here but you can also use iron but make sure to
set that up on low setting, once you’ve done that go ahead and top stitch along
the edges here now you’re going to work on the other
side so take your other zipper pocket panel right side up and then lay your
zipper right side down just like so then take the remaining zipper pocket piece
and lay that right side down go ahead and secure them in place with fabric
clips then sew with 1/4″ of seam allowance again you wanna smoothen up
the edges here and then go ahead and top stitch along the edges once you’ve done
that you wanna go ahead and fold this piece in half where you get your zipper
facing up line up the seams of your zipper tab then you’re going to sew
along the edges of the sides here with 1/4″of seam allowance if you
notice there I always use scrap of fabric at the back of my presser food so
I folded the scrap multiple times until I got the same bulk as what I’m going to
sew this will help to prevent bunching up thread so you’re gonna end up with
something like this the width of the zipper pocket should be
around 4 1/4″ so if yours kind of longer you may want to trim
that off we’re going to bind the raw edges of this zipper pocket so simply
take a bias tape and cut a slight longer than what you need I’m using a single
fold bias tape measuring 7/8″ wide place your zipper pocket on the center
of the bias tape, secure that in place with the fabric clips then go ahead and
sew along the edges so what I did here I move my needle all the way to the right
and then I use 3/8″ of seam allowance and once you’ve done sewing
your bias tape go ahead and trim the excess off and voila your zipper pocket
is done and all the raw edges already is sealed now we’re going to work on
attaching the credit card pockets onto the lining piece you wanna lay the first
pocket piece 1 1/2″ away from the bottom so
this is the upper top of the credit card slots and this is the bottom part then
you wanna space 1 1/2″ as well and then lay your second pocket
this on the opposite side so you wanna secure them in place with some fabric
clips on both sides then go ahead and sew along the edges with about 1/4″
of seam allowance then you’re going to topstitch the bottom of your pockets
as well. To create the accordion pleats you’re gonna need to cut two 5″ x 4 3/4″
inch of rectangles and you will need one interfacing exactly the same size of
course and then go ahead and fuse that in place then you wanna lay them right
side together and sew along the top and the bottom the one that measuring 4 3/4″
inch then go ahead and turn this piece inside out and give that a quick
press as well then you should end up with a rectangle measuring 5″ x 4 1/4″
quarter inch to create the pleats you’re gonna first fold this piece in half
lengthwise and then give that a good press then you want to fold one of the
edges here towards the center fold at age just like so you wanna line them up
then you want to turn this around and fold the other edge towards the folded
edge as well and give that a good press as well so you’re gonna end up with
something like this now go ahead and make another piece identical to this
next you’re going to take your zipper pocket and position that in the center
fold just like what I’m showing you here so the raw edges will be enclosed inside
the pleats secure them in place with some fabric clips then go ahead and sew
with 1/4″ of seam allowance next we’re going to attach this to the
lining piece so take the edge of your side panel here and you just want to
make sure here that your zipper is facing up or towards the flap put some
fabric clips to secure them in place you want to line up the upper part of your
side panel with the upper part of your pocket then go ahead and sew with
quarter inch of seam allowance so this is how it’s gonna turn out now you want
to take the other end of your side panel and you wanna lay that on the opposite
side again you wanna line the upper top of the side panel with the upper top of
your card pocket, secure this in place with the fabric clips then go ahead and sew
with 1/4″ of seam allowance so you may want to start from the bottom
and you wanna push everything to the side and then go ahead and start sewing so you’re going to end up with something
like this then you want to go ahead and work the same way for the other side