JEAN-PAUL GAULTIER : NO MORE SECRETS! by LOIC PRIGENT


Here he is: Jean Paul Gaultier! His Haute Couture fashion show
for the winter of 2019-2020! The full show! Model by model!
Secret by secret! Here we go Loic! We are at the house of
Jean-Paul Gaultier in Paris. In the huge fitting room
for Haute Couture clients! And today we are the richest of
customers since Jean-Paul Gaultier in person shows us his
collection, model by model. I’m rich of my YouTube
money, I’ll spend everything! This Haute Couture
collection starts here… Every season the Jean-Paul Gaultier House distributes
a pretty crazy program full of French puns. The name of each outfit
is here on the screen. From the start, a huge scoop. Number 1! I wanted to start to
show fake fur, in this collection. I won’t be showing fur anymore.
I’ve stopped doing fur. Yes, because the way it’s
done is not getting better. The way the wild animals are killed… So, this is a perfect fur
illusion, printed fur. LOIC: What would be the fur if it was real? It would be fox. Number 2 is the same, on a suit! It’s over there! We have the same system that is to
say the hood that is put on the head, completely quilted with feathers. Feathers spill over to create the illusion. The waist is without padding
so very thin with a wide belt. I may have done too much, adding a shapka. We don’t know if it’s hair or fur? Everything blends. This one is right there. The funny thing is that it’s
feathers inside and outside too. The feather simulates the fox pattern. All the stripes are like the
structure of old-fashioned fur coats. LOIC: You respected the old structure. Yes, to give this effect of
skin stripes and elongated. They used to say it was lengthened. LOIC: What’s the feather? Ostrich feather. Very light. All this is light. It’s good for skiing! This one is a nod to the classic coat.
It’s cashmere. LOIC: No lining whatsoever. Not at all!
Because it’s a double face cashmere! The technique is lightweight! About the line, all the collars are giant. We see no shoulders. The collar overwhelms
everything and gives the build. The allure is given by the collar. LOIC: There is a little naughty effect. Indeed, quite naughty. With the marabout feather,
like a well-placed fur collar! LOIC: That’s the most streetwear
part of the collection. A pretty chic streetwear.
With always this big collar. A short sleeve that is always double-faced. No lining. So, it’s pretty lightweight. The linings used to hide
unpretty things back in the day. While here, it’s all
well-built, sharp and neat. The silhouette above all! LOIC: How’s that holding? Whale bones! There are wires that can hold the collar. LOIC: And the gloves? The gloves are multifunction! You can put your phone; it has
pockets to store little things. Like a glove-bag. It’s a wrap! LOIC: That’s what you
create during fittings. Exactly. We twist. It’s a kind of big ring that goes up
here and comes back on the other side. I have my hood coming back over here. It’s a sort of jacket that
is both stole and hood. It’s two and a half months of work. LOIC: That’s luxury! Yeah! That’s the point of Haute Couture! It’s a matte nylon but
lined with cashmere inside. With its matching cashmere sweater. And a jeweled belt. LOIC: Is it a cameo? A punk cameo! And we added jewels,
necklaces, like a posh rapper. Pants that – small detail – sold well. What was funny was that
it’s very masculine pants. LOIC: Is there a zip here? There is a zip because it
does not open in front. It is an apparently male, but feminine
pair of pants with a side zip. This is full cashmere.
The jumpsuit is here. That’s it, cape! This cloak with a big collar jumpsuit. LOIC: Wire structure again? Whale bones again. Here and there. LOIC: Supermodel Coco Rocha! She is a co-worker almost! Well, she danced for me,
she did almost everything with me! LOIC: She has access to the canteen! It could be wool fringes and no,
it’s Chinese chicken fringes! The way the Chinese hen
moves is incredible! It’s like hair but glycerin. What’s crazy is how it
feels like heavy hair. It’s Françoise Hardy or Clara Luciani who
have heavy hair, with similar shivers. It is an overcoat where the collar
is so big that it is hooded. Like wearing your coat over your head.
To always have this silhouette. With the cap. It’s cashmere. LOIC: An androgynous model,
looking like Timothée Chalamet. It is true! In addition to beautiful. Androgynous model.
Cashmere gray flannel double face. You can see precisely. LOIC: It’s nothing, it’s surprising! It is draped and wrapped and check
the construction of the back. With the sleeve coming out. Let me tell you, a nightmare to create… It mustn’t be too tight, not too big.
When the arm is there, you must still be able to lift, etc. It’s a hell of a design. LOIC: And inside you have the impression
that nothing has happened outside. We blew in for it to swell! I remember a Montana fashion show at the
time of the broad shoulders of the 80s. The door for the models and BANG! Blocked by the entrance because
the shoulders were too wide. So, she retreated and went sideways! But now we’re pretty
used to big shoulders… The jacket with my big collar but
here she’s wearing a short vest, like a man’s vest but downright micro. And the pants are like a
bustier, mounted to the chest. The crotch is in the normal place
but the pants look gigantic. LOIC: Pants like French actor Yves Montand. Montand very high! Even higher than Yves
Montand, he didn’t climb high enough! A jacket in a lacquered satin. The cap had a leopard head
jewelry, quite feline! This coat is a printed jaguar.
Could be leopard, but it’s jaguar. It’s a jacquard lamé fabric.
A mix of silk and metal materials. It gives golden reflections. It seems like fur but it’s not.
It’s a metallic fur. Wait for it to rust! It is inspired by a
Vasarely painting I love. I had already made a
print like that in 1997. I didn’t exactly reproduce his work. I
borrowed his system and made a female body. The idea was to create this Vasarely
illusion with shadow effects, optic effects and 3D
effects, done by quilting. It’s all quilted! The inspiration of this one is still
the human body but make it zebra! It is the feminine breton
stripes with the breasts, quite vasarelliesque
with the optical effect. It’s satin printed with feathers. It’s a matching set, it’s a parka. Which is with iridescent nylon
taffeta, fully quilted with patterns. This is the fabric when it’s not padded.
It is a high-quality nylon taffeta Ice skating queen! I’m always inspired by
figure skating dancers. LOIC: The fashion show happens on the first
week of July in Paris and it’s the heat wave. Yes, and the models wear
all these quilts, fake furs and feathers that are hot
and with great volumes. Pretty hot! We don’t have air conditioning.
The fans are welcome! LOIC: The models were not fainting? Fainting happens during fittings. I have always seen this,
since my days at the house of Jean Patou. I remember I was told “Hold
her, hold her!”, I withheld the jacket and the girl fell!
It was the girl you had to hold… It’s a hard job to be a model. You have to stay put and not move. With the heat and no air
conditioning and winter clothes. And to not move is terrible after a while. There’s a dizziness and then… This one is with a rather
particular proportion, very short. It’s a hopeful night winter jacket.
Soft enough, in a satin. Feathers on the inside and pink satin. And a jumpsuit with this
vertiginous neckline. LOIC: To wear at the Palace nightclub! Exactly! It is a narrow waisted coat dress
and this sober and elegant color. This is a blouse with a cape sleeve and
it goes like that, a bit evanescent. LOIC: The idea is that you need a certain
number of pants in a couture collection? No, I absolutely don’t do that! I make the
pants or skirts according to the silhouette. LOIC: There’s no couture director
coming in and telling you… No! I’m the director! Again, with the Vasarely which is also
quilted like the suit we saw earlier. There in other colors and
the rest becomes feathers. Here we have a jewelry arm made with metal
and with enamel that reminds the colors. This, my friend, is an old dress
that I made and that I remade! LOIC: When was the first version? About 15 years ago. She was all black and I
disguised some parts with colors. LOIC: The structure is 15 years old. The structure is 15 years old. LOIC: And it’s a remix. It’s a remix. It was when I saw Dita Von Teese wearing the original
at a party and she was perfect in this dress. I thought “Shoot!”. And while trying it again, I added these
touches of color and the result is this dress. The touch of color changes everything. It is a black cutted lurex with padding
inside because the cutting is very thin. It’s a lurex hair. LOIC: Is it fragile? It’s fragile so I lined it with quilting. And I have this wrapping that comes
and goes around the neck like a scarf. Again, recycling! It was inspired by the paddings
of American football players. It was in my “morphing” collection. I saw it again and I saw the wrong side
and I said to myself “it’s very good, I’m going to make a dress!”. With the threads visible,
the cords are pretty. Like we had everything stitched fast
but it creates lovely graphic patterns. It’s a high waist skirt with a
bustier made of black stones. Antique jet stones that I found
and upcycled to make a bra. It’s rare stones. Truth is, it was already a jewel and
it became a bra for this collection. LOIC: There are bold transformations. Totally! I think that’s what makes life. It goes on, it metamorphoses,
it always morphs. It’s an asymmetrical jumpsuit. On the other side it becomes a
skirt with asymmetrical collar. And another side is the
prosthesis shoulder. The shoulder that kills! Quite Joan of Arc. In the spirit of the armor I made for
Madonna at the Eurovision song contest. But it didn’t come out
like that in the end. Its’s completely removable. You can
wear it with your little black dress. It’s a half suit in a shaded lamé fabric. LOIC: Is it a special-order fabric? Yes! I did it as a gradient,
it creates shadows. This is a fabric that I
had ordered many years ago. I made a suit for Johnny Hallyday
for his 60th birthday concert. So, it was 15 years ago.
The material is 15 years old. LOIC: It’s from the same roll? No, I made another one! Unfortunately,
I didn’t keep the original roll. This time it’s thinner on the side. LOIC: The kings of illusion! It’s a bit like that, it’s nice as a term, I like it, “The kings of illusion”. Another cashmere pants. LOIC: Velvet. Cashmere velvet. This top is inspired by old carriages. LOIC: Like a stroller? Yes, the strollers and carriages,
some of them were like that. It’s the same system. It’s a little blouse that can become a hood when
you put it like that and then unveils a shoulder. LOIC: What’s the material? It’s pretty raw. It’s organza. LOIC: An organza that
breaks up a little bit. LOIC: And the bad guy on the cameo. Exactly, the bad guy on the cameo! And here the little chain in his nose. LOIC: It’s amazing,
there is a search for new volumes. Totally! This is my way of hanging
by the head with a kind of hat, it becomes a funny turban. It’s quilting with a black lining
and worn on a little black dress. LOIC: It makes me think a bit of the virgins that can be
seen in South American churches but as a puffy jacket. It’s true, it’s a bit of all that,
it’s the fruit of many visions. How to make it couture, colors, etc. Everything mixes! LOIC: Hybridization, telescoping. It is the stole vest; it is only a collar and
behind there is something that holds it. It’s like there’s only a front,
it becomes like a vest with pockets. Note that Catherine Deneuve wore a version of this
vest at the Venice Film Festival in September 2019! That must be it. LOIC: It’s funny because we
actually almost see the pattern. I hide behind,
there I have double thickness. What is missing is the cone on
the head that holds the tip. It is an organza dress with colorful
crystal embroidery, almost neon. And with embroidery mixed with feathers. The crystals were fixed on
the bridge of the feathers. This is a skirt with its little
body sweater in black silk velvet. There you go! I am much more beautiful like that? It is marabout but very beautiful,
full, soft and very hot. LOIC: It’s very dense. It is very very dense. LOIC: It’s the zip that’s everywhere. Exactly, it continues with Swarovski and
it’s used as decoration and as a structure. The collar is a little padded so that it is
soft and wearable and maintained with a bone. It’s pretty sweet. The idea always of the puffy jacket but not too
much so does as it’s stays a little tuxedo. LOIC: What’s in it? There is a fleece, real wadding.
It’s silk wadding. It’s a purple pleated tulle dress.
The hat is like a cardigan hat, with a play of transparency. A bolero, more than a cardigan. LOIC: This is madness. Yes! It’s a velvet puffy jacket and
it’s a triangle. A big quilted triangle. A formal down jacket with a tail!
On a sharp jumpsuit with this V neckline. Retained by a belt in metal fringe. LOIC: It’s House of Gaultier,
it’s for the voguing balls. For this dress the idea was to
maintain a distance by a hoop, a small crinoline for chest and hips. The finest waistline.
The chest and the hips go the other way. With a braided belt made of crystals
of the same blue electric color. LOIC: Why make it easy
when you can do that? Yes! This one is Vasarely black on
black, had to do it! Vasarely is always colorful,
but this is a black monochrome Vasarely. And then it’s orange!
It is the design of the body in 3D. Black sequins you almost can’t see. LOIC: It’s sequins on sequins! Glitter on glitter! I have a
background of micro square sequins. I have bits cut from the Vasarely shapes
and above it all, a diamond-like sequin. LOIC: Can the wearer sit in it? You can! Look it’s flexible! It doesn’t
bite the skin… it doesn’t hurt! It’s a cotton tulle blouse
cut with storied ruffles. LOIC: It’s good for a strip tease. Looks like the Menines by
Velazquez, but at the Moulin Rouge. Dita Von Velasquez! 40! The name of this outfit
is: “She spots everything”. She plays stain-spot in a feather fur
jacket, on a dress with embroidered jewels. LOIC: Vasarely-like tailoring. The material is a velvet metallized
pane, Vasarely print in panther colors. She has a coat, like a frock-coat
cardigan with embossed flakes. On one side you see that walleye,
on the other side you see the zebra. This is a cute old dress, it’s upcycled! A while ago, I made a super heavy
dress with an animal print on it. The head of an animal was on the top. But it was super heavy!
The new one is still heavy but less. The old one was missing something, there
was not all this relief and fringes there. It’s like an apron. I put the head on the bottom part
and the tail spins around the neck. I’ve reworked it with an embroidery.
The fringe evokes the hair of an animal. LOIC: Can we see the back? The back? LOIC: Is it a Swarovski zip? A zip that opens at the
bottom and at the top. This one is lamé jacquard. LOIC: It’s crazy. It’s a chain! It’s a metal chain, a belt made of chains. This is the dress that is under the belt
corset. Printed chiffon with a jaguar pattern. The crystal gives shine.
Dramatic sleeves as on many other models. Worn with the corset. I first made
it for Mylène Farmer’s last show. It’s a tumble belt in a metallic leather.
As if the belts broke the line of the body. LOIC: Can a client change it herself? She can, but it’s such a difficult procedure
that it’s going to ruin the structure. That’s the coat jacket. It’s put upside down…. It is a scarf-like coat, with the
collar holding a martingale behind. Both sides have pockets and
hems of ostrich feathers. That’s obvious! The belt is padded and it creates
a stole that hides the shoulders. It’s a bit like the dress we saw before,
but here the shoulders are wider. It is long and in black velvet,
with a satin covered with Swarovski. Here we see the details. LOIC: We can see the crinoline underneath. Yes, but it’s empty,
we’re playing with volumes. LOIC: It’s for Sansa Stark on St.
Patrick’s Day. LOIC: One earring,
because two would be too much! Yes, you must know the balance!
It changes everything! It’s a delirium with the gathers,
the structure with conical breasts. The belly button,
the hips and the shoulders. It’s there by chance. The sleeves are like small
capes from Middle Ages. It’s worn by Cindy Bruna. LOIC: What’s the fabric? Crepe chiffon. It’s crackled,
I like when it’s full of wrinkles. With a hole, looks like a sun. LOIC: There is no structure below? Nothing! LOIC: No corset or construction? It’s a sun-like shape. It’s a total drape. LOIC: And now – an upcoming model. Anna Cleveland! The dress is there. Look, the feathers are gorgeous. LOIC: They are clipped on something? No, they are all natural. LOIC: The rods look a bit bare. Exactly, we cleaned the rods
to play with transparency. LOIC: Is it a taffeta? A taffeta of silk. The screech of
the taffeta, the sound that it makes! LOIC: It’s a dress for fleeing to Varennes. LOIC: Why Anna Cleveland? Because she is absolutely great!
I have never worked with her mother… So, I work with the daughter! She is very funny and she
did my Fashion Freak Show. Look at this work! It’s so discreet. LOIC: It’s imprisoned. I love the term!
You really find the right terms. Imprisoned by tulle.
The dress is in muslin. LOIC: Imprisoned, but finds its way out. Finds a way out, exactly! LOIC: With a gallon of crystals. On the stem of ostrich feathers. LOIC: This dress is so camp!
It’s for Mae West! LOIC: There is a fabric effect at the bottom.
It’s sometimes yellow and sometimes orange. It’s a changing muslin because
with two kinds of thread. A gold colored thread and a salmon color. The two threads accentuate the changing effect
and bring out one color more than the other. Ah this one! LOIC: It’s in satin? Satin, but a sabred satin! We cut the thread with a small
razor and it becomes like a velvet. It’s a thick satin. There is a layer that is cut
and it takes velvet-ish effect, it’s a work of a madman!
It’s like an embroidery! 52. The name of this outfit is Mein Hair: Embroidered tubular hair
on pleated tulle head cape. Velvet dress with a biting bustier. It is a hooded dress with this
morphological print that becomes a zebra. The sleeves are cap-like. Crepe chiffon and strapless satin
bodysuit with the same print. These are leather hoses. LOIC: It’s consistent, it’s a structure. With magnets. It’s not rubber, it’s leather. The material is interesting,
it’s devoured velvet. The bottom is muslin but it is
simply round pellets that are velvet. The white has sometimes
been repainted with gold. On top of a chain mail, there is
also a bracelet that is also a vest. A metal jewel vest. LOIC: Princess of fire! Yeah! LOIC: The big coat. The coat is a work of
embroidery and marquetry. The pagoda sleeves.
A coat with a large belt in black patent. And the collar is fully embroidered,
it’s a kind of jacquard and marquetry. LOIC: Looks like origami. Like a houndstooth fabric! LOIC: It’s an opera coat! But who’s going to opera like that now? LOIC: Fanny Ardant! She is much more discreet!
She could definitely wear it. This is the Vasarely embroidery. With sequins
and all that is embroidered in yarn. LOIC: How many hours? With sleeves that replicate the colors. LOIC: It represents the anatomy,
there is the space between the legs. LOIC: These are metal applications? It’s not metal. LOIC: Everything is flexible. It’s versatile because the inspiration for this type
of embroidery is the Rajasthan dresses with mirrors. It was this spirit of embroidery that I wanted
but we did it with something more portable. Otherwise the mirror breaks when you sit… There is a chisel cutting technique
that can also be done with hair. We tried to remake a Scottish clan pattern
with ostrich feather, cut and straightened. LOIC: Passage 59! It’s between the Christmas
tree and Tinkerbell! It’s the bride, it’s transparent,
nudity, but hidden by pleats. Still the triangular
line of the collection, for a wedding dress with the
simplest thing: being naked. She hides her breasts, because we
don’t can’t show breasts anymore! LOIC: And the finale,
why are you running every time? Because I’m shy,
even if I don’t look like it. I run because walking is boring. What am I supposed to do anyway?
I say hello and that’s it. I don’t need the walking stick, so I run. Until the day I break my neck
and then it will be over! LOIC: This video is a tribute
to Marie-Christiane Marek: this format is inspired by the
tv-shows she did a lot with you. I imagine that it was a
pleasure to work with her. She was an innovator. Besides, she was going to all the
fashion shows like no one else. LOIC: She educated a lot of people;
we learned all the details with her. Yes, and when she told us “See you next week!”,
we would say “Can’t wait for next week!” It was Jean-Paul Gaultier In Extenso
Haute Couture Fall Winter 2019/2020! Subscribe to my channel for more
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