How to Sew a Set-In Sleeve – Sewing from Angela Kane


This is for all of you who have requested
a tutorial on Setting in a Sleeve It is taken from my video series Making The Classic Roll Collar Coat Join my site and watch the whole series This is the sleeve crown
also called the sleeve head or sleeve cap The crown nearly always needs to be eased
into the armhole and we want to do this evenly without pleats or tucks
unless that is the feature of the design To help distribute this fullness we use two rows
of gathering stitches either side of the seam line Use a contrast thread to make it easy to remove Right I have my sleeve crown under the foot
and the fabric is facing right side up I have loosened the top tension
and lengthened the stitch a little I’m starting from the notch and stitching about
an eighth of an inch inside the seam allowance Stitch all the way round to the notch on the other side Then repeat this but this time about an eighth of an inch
on the other side of the seam line So the gathering threads are in Now we can join the sleeve seam Matching notches and making sure these cuff lines are matched So just pin and stitch Just pivot your stitching at these angles The seam is stitched and before we press
we must clip at these points to remove excess bulk So, using the sleeve board for what it was designed for
we now press this seam open This linen/cotton mix fabric
is probably ok to iron without a cloth but it pays to be cautious We have two sleeves right side out and pressed ready to sew into our garment Our garment is inside out Pop the sleeve into the armhole making sure you have them the right way round
by matching the notches Match the underarm seams and the notch at the top of the sleeve
to the shoulder seam Match the notches and pin You will find the lower half of the sleeve curve
and the armhole curve will match Then we are ready to ease the crown By pushing the sleeve into the armhole like this you will see that the amount of ease required
is very little in this pattern Get hold of the two threads and pull up a little Then just ease and distribute the fullness evenly and pin at right angles When you are happy that you have
the right amount of gathering wind the threads around a pin to secure
until you machine Do the same on the other side Take your time and uses plenty of pins Yes, I think that will do So let’s get this seam stitched Don’t forget to change your thread back
to the matching machine thread and set your tension back to normal Take it carefully
stitching this seam is a little awkward As always, sew slowly over the pins **Sewing Over Pins!
Please review my New Guidelines
Visit angelakane.com/sewing-over-pins.php You should be stitching between the gathering rows Nearly there You need to keep rotating your garment
so that the seam lies flat Check your sleeve before removing
your gathering threads Try the coat on or use a dress form if you have one That is looking pretty good
considering it hasn’t been pressed and doesn’t have the shoulder pads in yet Yes I’m happy with that So that’s both sleeves sewn in We can now remove the gathering stitches As long as you haven’t machined over them
they should pull out quite easily The next job is to run another row of stitching
along this seam A ¼” inside the seam allowance Next we are going to trim this seam
and add the shoulder pads This series is of videos is available to watch
and download from my site angelakane.com Join as a Full Member You will have access to all my patterns
across nine sizes including these classics The Roll Collar Coat The Man’s Cut Shirt and The Authentic Blue Jeans as featured here Join and learn how to make great clothes