How to Sew a Scalloped Hem


Hi, I’m Tova with Professor Pincushion and
today i’m going to show you how to create the scalloped hem. Why do a normal straight
edge hem when you can add interest to your hemlines. A scalloped hem is named for its
unique wavy hemline. This technique can easily be replicated on many of your garments. This
vintage look will always be a classic. Let’s go ahead and get started. It’s important to select the right fabric.
Since pressing is important, you should select something that can handle a high heat and
stable enough to maintain its shape, like a poplin, linen, or silk
Measure the hemline of the garment you want to add your scallops to. You may want to do some quick calculations
so you don’t end up with partial scallops. Take your hemline measurement and divide by
the number of scallops you wish. This will give you the measurement width of each scallop.
Or if you have a scallop size in mind, you can do the opposite. Take the hemline measurement
and divide by scallop width size and make sure this will give you close to an even number. At
least it will let you know if you need to make a slightly smaller or slightly larger
scallop size to get an even number. Scallops can be added to a hemline even if
a garment is already hemmed, just realize this will make the garment shorter. If you’re
altering a pattern, consider extending the pattern length by a couple inches to adjust. I’m doing this to an existing dress hemline.
If you haven’t hemmed your hemline, do that first with your preferred hemming method.
In my case, I zigzagged the raw edge and just folded up a half inch and machine stitched
in place. You can use common household objects to make
your scallop template, like lids, cans or cups. Use tape to mark your scallop measurement width. The distance between my tape edges
is 3”. This will help maintain consistency. Trace it on the piece of a paper to make sure
that you like your scallop size. It’s usually better to have a more shallow scallop than
deep scallop Fold the bottom of your garment to the right
side. The amount will vary depending on how big your scallop is. Test it with your template,
I like it about ¼ inch away from the bottom edge and ¼ inch away from the edge of the hem.
I folded up about 2 inches total. Pin in place to hold.
Now start drawing your scallops, using your template with a fabric marker or chalk for
the full circumference of the hem. At your machine, you may want to shorten your
stitch length for more exact stitching. Stitch directly on your scallop lines. When you get
to a point, put the needle down, lift the foot, and then pivot the fabric, place the
foot down and continue. Curves are tricky so take your time.
Trim off the excess fabric, leaving about ⅛ – ¼ inch past your scallop stitching. Clip notches for all the curved areas and
for the scallop points. This will prevent bunching when it’s turned right side out.
Be careful not to cut your stitches. Flip the scallops right side out Carefully press to get the scallop shape
The hem at the top is still loose. You can handstitch in place with a blind stitch
by taking a little bit of the hemmed edge and then a little bit of the fabric above
and then repeat. If you want something even less noticeable,
use some fusible webbing to glue the hem in place.
Looking at the right side of the garment, you’ll see that the hemline now has a beautiful
scalloped edge. Try it on dresses, skirts, shorts, and tops. We hope you enjoyed this tutorial. Please subscribe to get notified of our weekly releases. Also, check out Professorpincushion.com to view our complete library with well over 350 sewing tutorials. If you would like to directly support us, you can check out our patreon campaign and earn some exclusive perks. Thanks for watching!