How to Sew a Lining in a Skirt with a Slit – Vent Extension

Maybe you’ve tackled putting a lining in
a regular skirt, but you’re wondering how to do it for a skirt with a vent extension,
also known as a slit. You’re in luck because I’ll show you exactly how it’s done. You’ll know a pattern has a vent extension
because, near the hemline, your pattern will have a shape similar to this. From my front and back skirt patterns, I’ll
cut out pieces from my main fabric and from my lining fabric. With my main fabric pieces, I’ll start assembling
my skirt. This means, I’ll sew in the zipper and sew the center back seam to the top of
the vent and also sew any darts. Then sew the skirt front and skirt back together at
the side seams. You’ll also want to fold along the vent
extension and press. You may have a separate pattern for the skirt
lining in which there’s an inverted vent at the hemline instead of an extended one
like my pattern, but this is not crucial and you can reuse the same skirt pattern like
I am. To make your lining vent inverted, use a ruler and fabric marker and draw a line
1 ⅝” from the center back edge. This line should go down to the hemline. Draw another
line, extending the top edge of the vent extension to your first line. Mark where these lines intersect. At your sewing machine, stitch from the center
back to the mark, pivot and then go all the way down to the skirt hem edge. You’re not
sewing anything together, we’re just reinforcing and prepping our vent area of our lining. Trim the vent extension off leaving ½”
to ⅝” past your stitches. Cut diagonally to the mark. Fold the fabric on the stitch line to the
wrong side and press. Repeat these steps for the other skirt back lining piece. Now we’re going to sew the skirt lining
pieces similar to how we did the outer shell. Sew the center back seam from the top of the
vent to the bottom of where the zipper would go in. Press this seam and continue pressing to the
top of the waistline, turning the edges of where the zipper will be by ⅝”. Then sew the skirt front lining and the skirt
back lining together at the side seams and press. Also, if you had any darts, don’t
forget to do those. Next, you’ll want to hem the skirt lining.
The skirt lining should end up above the finished length of your outer skirt so you should take
a look at your hem allowance of your main pattern. For example, if your hem allowance
for your main skirt is 1”, you might want to make the lining hem allowance 1 ½”. So on my skirt, I’ll fold up the bottom
edge of the skirt lining 1 ½” to the wrong side, press, then take the top raw edge, turn
under ¼” and press again. Please note, when doing this, unfold the pressed edge around
the vent. Sew your hem in place at your sewing machine
using a regular length straight stitch on the top folded edge. Now insert the skirt lining into the main
skirt, wrong sides together, matching up the top edge of the skirt. Your pressed zipper area should go alongside
the zipper teeth of the main skirt. For now, you’re just going to baste all
along the top of the skirt attaching these two layers together. For a typical skirt,
you’ll eventually have a waistband, but you’ll want to watch our tutorial on the
basic waistband if you need help with that. Hand sew the pressed edge of the lining to
the zipper tape by going back and forth between grabbing the lining and the zipper tape. Now we’ll do the hem of the main skirt.
Turn the vent extension at the bottom of the skirt to the right side and stitch 1” from
the bottom going across the turned edge of the vent, or whatever your hem allowance is. Trim off the excess. Then flip the vent extension
back to the wrong side and the bottom edge of the skirt will naturally start to turn
along the hemline. On the inside of the skirt, press up the hemline
of the main skirt for the rest of the length. You can either hand sew it in place if it’s
a delicate fabric or machine sew it. You can pull the lining up just to keep it out of
the way. Pull the lining down and in my example the
lining is a ½” shorter than the main skirt. Then you want to lay the lining vent over the main vent. You’ll notice that my lining is not matching up with the edge of my vent. There is about a 1 inch gap here I’m going to slip stitch the edge of the lining to my main fabric all the way around. So I’m going to use a contrasting thread here so you can see where my thread is. So I started right on that folded edge of the lining. Im going to grab a little bit of my main fabric. And I’m just grabbing the fabric that is on the wrong side. I’m trying to make sure my needle doesn’t go through to the right side. Because I don’t want to see my thread on that side. So now that I did the main fabric. I’m just going to go back to that edge of the lining again. Then after that I go to the main fabric So you’re just going to do this all the way around. until the vent is attached. Or the lining vent is attached to the main vent. If you’re worried about your lining coming
separated from the skirt at the hemline area too much, you can do some french tacks at
the side seam areas. See our tutorial on doing french tacks to learn how to do this. And now your skirt has a lovely lining inside.
Adding a lining can be extra work but it’ll make your handmade clothes look exquisite
and high end. We hope you enjoyed this tutorial. Please
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