How to Make Pumpkin Placemats & Candy Corn Coasters | A Shabby Fabrics Sewing Tutorial

Hi, it’s Jen from Shabby Fabrics, back with Table Glitz for October. We chose these cute little jack-o’-lanterns, they’re really fun around the holiday of Halloween. If you would rather have that be harvest and kind of carry through into Thanksgiving, simply don’t put the jack-o’-lantern faces on and they’ll carry through and be just as cute, so that’s an option for you. If you are purchasing the kit you will of course get the stem, the leaves, and the jack-o’-lantern face, so if you choose to not put the jack-o’-lantern face on just discard that put it aside maybe for a different project another day. If you haven’t already subscribed to our YouTube channel, I want to encourage you to do that. Of course new projects are coming out all the time. You will want to make sure you download the diagrams in order to do both of the cute little placemat and then for the coasters we chose candy corn. We thought that was a cute little add-on. You can, if you’re watching on the Shabby Fabrics website, you can either click in the video right below – there should be a link that will take you to where you can download those diagrams. If you’re watching on YouTube there should be a link in the description box below. And if you’re at the Shabby Fabrics home page, at the very bottom there’s a link that says Free Downloads. Click there and you’ll be able to download the Table Glitz for October and all of the whole series and of course other series as well. It’s been a lot of fun, so let’s jump right into the project. As I mentioned, if you do purchase the kit, which is exclusively available from Shabby Fabrics, anything that’s appliquéd onto the pumpkin such as the mouth, the stem, is already cut out for you. I know I love being able to just jump into the fun of stitching projects together versus tracing them out and having to cut everything quite so precisely so That is one of the convenient things about buying a pre-fused and laser cut kit. Now I’m just gonna get these pieces ready to go. I’ll be using the Wafer 3 Lightbox. This is the largest light box that Daylight Company currently makes, and as you can see it’s really ideal for larger projects. So if you’re crafting a lot, you may want to make the investment to get the Daylight 3. I love it. I love the real estate of it and I think the other thing I love most about it is It not only has measurements along the side if I’m trying to get something really precise, but I can vary the intensity of the light, which I love, so I can get it where it’s just right for my eyes. Once you download your two diagrams for the pumpkin itself, you’ll tape those together on the diamonds as you have before, and you’ll need to cut out your actual pumpkins. Now be careful that you are very accurate about that because you’ll want to make sure that the shapes such as the stems and the leaves are fitting exactly on top of that. So make sure you’re doing that very precisely now. I’ve got my iron heating up. If you are not buying the kit and you’ll be using your own fabric you would simply use fusible webbing such as this here and bring that to your lightbox. Trace out the mouth, trace out the eyes, roughly cut around, iron that to the back of the fabric, and cut exactly on the lines, and then you’re ready to go onto the step that I’ll be taking you on to now. So I am gonna use that lightbox and show you just how beautifully it works It’s a little bit crowded on my work place right now. So I will have to do my best with the space I have available. Now be careful that you never accidentally iron on that lightbox; that would definitely do some pretty significant damage to it because this is not glass. Now I’m going to move this over so you can see how I typically do manage using a lightbox in combination. So I’m going to bring this over. I’ll have this ready to go and I’m using the lightbox for guidance. So I’ve got my pumpkin down and just looking at my shapes, you can see where looks like the main part of that pumpkin, the center portion, will go down next. I love that I can see exactly where it goes. Now normally, once I would put this center portion down, I would not be able to see where the eyes and the nose and the mouth go because it’s blocking it. With the lightbox, I’m going to turn it up even just a little bit more so I can see where that’s gonna go, and I’ll place those right now. There and there, and our smile. Boy, this just makes me remember back to when my kids were little and trick-or-treating and how much fun that was around our neighborhood. Got to visit with the neighbors that I often, you know, get our busy lives. We don’t see them really that often in a bigger neighborhood, so that was always fun getting to visit with neighbors. So the next piece that would go on I’m gonna go ahead and put all the pieces in position. Looks to me like that would be our leaf and here you’re just mimicking the shape of what you’re seeing here. Of course that stem needs to fit the footprint of that. Now what I’d like to do at this point is very carefully slide that over – and I take the diagram and all, I just take the whole thing – and I just begin to fuse. And I like to start in the middle, kind of get everything locked down, and I don’t slide. I’m lifting and I’m pressing. Okay, so I’m gonna continue in that fashion Now here you want to be very careful because if your leaf is off of your background at all, you’ll iron that to the paper so you might want to be a little bit careful. You might want to put an Appliqué Pressing Sheet underneath there. You’ve seen us use Appliqué Pressing Sheets in previous… Have to be careful down. Yep. Same thing I like an Appliqué Pressing Sheet for so many reasons, and one of the reasons is exactly that. When I’m ironing really close to the edge and I might not have exactly gotten it over my background, If I miss it ever so slightly I can iron to my paper and that’s where I sometimes like having an Appliqué Pressing Sheet below so that I don’t do that and it’ll release. Okay, so that’s how we’ve gotten our pumpkin and all of the pieces down to the background, and you’ve also cut a piece of fusible fleece and we like to iron the fusible fleece onto the back. We have enough going on with the front of our placemats that we like to iron the fusible fleece to the back. So that’s the sticky side is here, this side is not sticky, iron that all down, and then right sides together (RST) just to save us a little time I’ll walk you through this step, so you’re not watching me iron that down, you’ll carefully — this is where I’d recommend some pinning — So you’re going to want to make sure — you can imagine — that’s a pretty specific footprint. You’re going to want to pin that and sew all the way around, leaving an opening. Now pick your favorite spot where you have the opening. You do have to turn this all the way through and so you’re certainly not going to leave it opening up in this region. You want to kind of do it in an area where you’ll easily be able to turn that through and close that seam. We’ve certainly recorded that on the previous Table Glitz, some of the earlier generation of the Table Glitz. If you’re not familiar with that I want to refer you back to those videos and you’ll be able to watch that turn through and some tips and tricks of how to close that seam. So once you get to that point — of course now comes all the fun stitching using the Thread Director, Metallic Thread. Sulky — we love our partners at Sulky. They create some of the most amazing metallic threads, other threads as well. As we’re discovering more and more of Sulky’s offerings, we love them. The 50 weight cotton — love that, 12 weights for working with wool, today we’ve got beautiful four spools of metallic thread that were specifically selected to coordinate with our project. So, now before I jump into the machine here, you’re going to go ahead with the candy corn pretty straightforward. You have your background, and you have your top and your bottom and you’ll just be doing the same thing. You have your fusible fleece, your backing, you’re ironing, the fusible fleece to the back, right sides together (RST), sew around, leave the opening in the bottom, turn it through, 1/4 inch seam allowance as you tuck under, and then you’re just doing a top stitch and doing some really fun stitching again with a decorative thread. Metallic thread. Now, I’m going to take this over to — I just want to show you how the Thread Director gets this metallic thread coming off with no stress on the thread. If you’ve used metallic thread in the past and had breakage — I did! I figured metallic thread and I are not meant to be. Yes they are meant to be. I just didn’t have the right tools, and the right tools include the Thread Director because it puts the spool coming off at the perfect angle with no stress and no twisting and I also recommend a Schmetz Metallic Needle, which is meant specifically to work with the tenderness of metallic thread. So I’m just gonna go and do a little bit of stitching on here even though I’ve stitched this before. Let’s just jump over here. I just want you to see how beautifully — Sometimes when we really want something to have a lot of glitz we’ll actually do the metallic thread twice. We’ll pass through it two times. So I’ll just glitz this up just a little bit more and you’ll see how this Thread Director just allows the thread to just come off with very little — — no resistance. Look at that. Look at that. It’s perfect. Perfect on the top, perfect on the back, it’s a no-brainer to use the metallic thread with the Thread Director. One more hint I want to tell you is don’t get this so tight that your thread can’t spin freely. Make sure you back off a little bit on that so that your your spool just spins freely. So that’s all there is to making the Table Glitz for October. I hope you have enjoyed this series. There’s more projects coming to you. So again, if you haven’t already subscribed I encourage you to do that today