How to Make Fabric Envelopes

Welcome to SewVeryEasy, my name is Laura. And today, let’s make a fabric envelope. Now you’re going to be able to make this in any size you want, and it’s all going to be determined by the size of the square that you choose. So any size square is going to work. To make this envelope I’m going to use a double-sided interfacing. This is a medium weight. It’s almost like a paper itself. The one I’m using is called Structure and it’s from Fairfield. And it’s fusible on both sides. A little piece of ribbon, and this is about 15 inches. Before I go too far, I’m going to take the ends and I’m going to put a fray stop on it. And I’m going to just coat the ends with that fray stop and let it dry. And when it’s dried I’m going to add one more coat and let it dry again. I want this stiff so that it’s easier to handle at the end of the project. So I’m going to cover about an inch of the ends, and let that soak in and dry. What you’re going to do is start with any size square of of this interfacing. And it really doesn’t matter the size. This particular size is 11¾ because it was the leftover piece from a project. Two pieces of fabric and I want both the fabrics an inch bigger than this interfacing. We need to cut some little notches, and round the edges of the interfacing. I want to find the center points on both sides. Folding it really works the best but I don’t want to press this area here because I want this flat. So I can mark just those ends. When I’ve marked the two ends, turn it, fold it again, matching all of the edges, and you’re going to be able to mark those edges. So I’m going to have four little lines. Where those lines are, I want to cut out a triangular shape. Any ruler with a 1″ square will work fine. I’m ready to use that center mark as a guide. Take a 1″ square, and I’m going to be able to use that center line and draw that triangle. So I have that little shape right there, and that is going to be a cut-out mark. I need to do this in all of those four little marks. Cut out these tiny little triangles and round the edges a little bit so it’s just a nice, smooth curve. Cut out all four. Next, we’ll be curving those points on all four corners. So we have no sharp areas. The interfacing is ready. Make sure all of your fabrics are pressed and that they’re half an inch bigger. Take both the fabrics and place them so that they’re right-sides touching. Place the interfacing in the center of that square and pin those layers together. This is one time I like to add a lot of pins because I don’t want any of these layers shifting. You’re going to use that interfacing as a guide and stitch all the way around. You’re not stitching on the interfacing; you’re stitching on the fabric, but right along that edge. You do need to leave an opening in one area. Just mark that area so that you have somewhere to turn this right-side out. Backstitch, and stitch all the way around, back stitching right at that area. And leave the pins on. So that interfacing hasn’t been stitched on, but the layers are all together. We’re going to trim off some of the extra fabrics in these little pointed areas. You need to take a snip all the way to that point, but don’t cut into that point. So it comes right up to that thread. And then trim off these little points. All of the curves are going to have that curve in it. And for the ends, trim off those points. On all of those little round areas, take a couple of little notches out. So you’re just going to take these tiny little wedges out. And do two or three on each of the curves here and in here. With those little notches cut out it’s going to lay very flat when it’s done. Before you remove the pins, we’re going to take this and press it onto this fusible interfacing. You’re going to want to just take the tip of the iron and iron that down, and work all of those pieces over. Now if you find this is getting a little too close for your hands because the iron is hot, you can use a stiletto and hold it while you put your iron tip there or use a kitchen fork because it’s going to hold the fabric out of the way. And that layer is going to stick right to that interfacing and that’s going to maintain a beautiful shape. The corners are going to lie nice and flat and that fabric is going to go into that point. That’s why notching it makes it so nice. Now because this is fusible, just make sure you keep your iron away from the fusible and just on that border fabric. And when you finish pressing it, let it cool so that that glue, that fusible, has a chance to adhere to the fabric. Now you can remove the pins. Find your opening and gently turn this right-side out. and all of those edges are going to be very easy to poke out because you sewed 𝒂𝒍𝒐𝒏𝒈 that interfacing, not 𝒐𝒏 the interfacing. You can see both sides have remained flat. One side of the opening has already been set for you. Now you can take this to the iron and iron it. And all of the layers are going to stick together, so make sure all of your points are out first and iron it by just putting the iron up and down. You don’t want to have the iron go in this direction because then you’re going to shift this before it fuses. So just iron it by pressing it down, and then turn it over and press on this side. We’ll close this up later. Just press that so it matches that edge. All of those layers are stuck together and you have this nice flat surface. Do a row of topstitching, following the edge all the way around. And that row of topstitching is going to close up that end. When that topstitching has been done, we need to press the bag. So at this point, you need to decide which is going to be the outside and what is going to be the inside. I’m going to have this writing as the inside. You need to press from corner to corner. So if you take that point and you fold it down, it’s going to stop right there at that point. And press. You need to do that to all four corners. Now that we have those edges pressed, we need to decide which flap is going to be the top flap. And by finding the top flap, you’re going to know which flap is the bottom. If this is the top, you’re going to open it up, and you’re going to open up the sides, so 𝒕𝒉𝒂𝒕 is my bottom point. And with that bottom point you’re going to put the ribbon here. With that sealant on there, I can trim off those raw edges. And this is a little bit stiff now so it’s going to be helpful at the end. And it will prevent it from fraying. So just snip off any of those raw edges to clean it up. Put that ribbon folded in half that halfway mark is going to go right on the end and you can stitch that down. I like to stitch it down and leave just a little loop so it looks decorative. With those three other points, we need to either make a buttonhole, or we can add these little eyelets. I’ll put a link in the description for a video on how to put those on. I’m going to put those three on the end, and I know that those eyelets are going to be big enough because I need to have that ribbon go through them. When the three eyelets have been put on (or the three buttonholes), you can do up the envelope. The bottom is going to come up first and it won’t matter what side you do next. You’re going to take your little ties and put both the ties through the first hole. Close the second flap put the ties through the next hole. For the top one, you’re only going to put one tie through. Then you’re going to be able to tie a nice bow. And there you have it. If you don’t want the little tie, you can put a button on that bottom flap and use buttonholes. You’ll just have to remember you’re going to need enough space behind that button to put in all of that fabric. So my square started out at 11¾ and my envelope size is now 7½ inch square. It is a quick and easy project. You can make them any size, using up any leftover fabric, or you can design it exactly the way you want. If you don’t like the ties, add a button and some buttonholes; you’re set to go. It’s quick and easy, and it’s a fun project to make. Thank you for joining me today on SewVeryEasy. Feel free to subscribe and, as always, come on back. Let’s see what we’re sewing next time in the sewing room. Bye for now!