How to make binding for a quilt

Welcome to SewVeryEasy, my name is Laura. And today I have the quilt top quilted and it’s trimmed, now I need to put a binding on it. But, I will need to make the binding first. So let’s talk about how we’re going to make the binding, and how much are we going to be able to need? You need to take the measurement of the outside of your quilt. You’re going to divide it by 40 inches. Why 40? 40 is usually the length that you are going to get out of a width of quilting fabric, which is 44″ to 45″ but you’ll only be able to use approximately 40 inches of it. So I’m going to take my measurement, divide it by 40, it will tell me how many strips to cut. In this case, this quilt, I’m going to need five strips cut. Now the decision is how wide are you going to make your width when you cut it? Anywhere between a 2″ and 2½” width makes a very nice binding. I am particularly fond of a 2″ binding because I like my bindings very small. So now we need to get the fabric cut. Now we’re going to need to cut the strips out of our fabric and this is the width of the fabric and the fold is along this edge. The first thing you need to do is straighten up this edge of the fabric so that your strips will cut nicely. And here’s a little trick on how to straighten up this edge of the fabric without having to flip your fabric over. You will need two rulers. The first ruler I will line up along this folded edge, keeping it as straight as possible. That way I know I won’t have any warping. Then I will be able to take the secondary ruler and I’m going to be able to line it up along this edge here. So this is a very tight touching edge of the ruler. This is very straight along your fold and then you have this piece here. I will now be able to remove this ruler and I am going to be able to cut along this edge and I know it’s going to be straight. Keeping your fold in front of you, you will be able to cut a few strips without having to remove the fabric. You start with your 2″ mark and you make sure that this line here along the fold is straight. If this is not straight along the line and it’s not straight along this marking then you need to re-straighten your fabric. And I do not worry about the selvage because it’s going to come off after. And I do my mark. Now without taking the last strip off, I’m able to move my ruler over. Because I know I’m doing two inches, I will be able to move it over to the 4″ mark. Again, make sure that the line is straight here and the line is straight along this mark. So this is my fold with a straight line and now I’m on a 4″ mark. And I do the 4 inch mark. I now can move the ruler and do a 6″ mark. I wouldn’t recommend doing this more than three strips, four at the most, because it’s very important to keep this straight along with this line here. If not, when you open up your fabric, where it’s been folded you end up with an elbow. Right here … it won’t be straight. It will actually come up like this and it will have an elbow so you would not be able to use that piece. You would have to cut it and piece it to get the grain line straight. So it is important that this line is straight along with that line and you’re set to go. So all of my strips are cut now, I need to get to the machine and I can sew these strips together, and I will be sewing them on a 45° angle. However I do not pre-cut the edges here. I just will take it right to the machine and I’ll show you a very easy way to get it done. Okay, let’s go through a couple of things with the machine first that you’re going to need. The first thing you’re going to do is you’re going to use straight stitch. And you can put on just your straight stitch foot and it’s going to be able to give you a nice line that you’re going to be able to follow. The other thing is where the needle is, you are going to need a very straight line all the way to the edge of your machine now what I’ve done is I’ve just put a piece of tape on my counter or my machine bed and I have continued that line all the way, keeping it very straight and I just drew it with a marker. And that way afterwards I can remove this tape when I don’t need it. The next thing I like to do is I like to start with a little piece of fabric. Run your machine on a piece of fabric first, and that way you don’t have to worry about the threads getting caught underneath and it makes it really, really easy. The next thing are my strips I’ve kept all of my strips together with all of the edges on one side and all of the folds on another side. And I’m going to take that and I’m going to keep them in the right direction and I just put them on my lap. So we take the first piece and I am going to keep that right side up. The next piece I will take from my lap and I am going to take that top piece and I’m going to put it on here so that the right sides are touching. And what we will do is I’m going to overlap and you can see that I have some hanging out here and I’m going to have some hanging out there. That’s all right because that’s what I would have cut off anyways. So we’re going to sew from that corner to that corner. So you’re going to take your fabric, keeping them together, and you’re going to put it on an angle. And put that point right up against that needle. And don’t worry about this little piece of fabric. You’ve already sewn off of it so it’s just not going to get in your way. Put your foot down and then here at this intersection you’re going to line it up with that line that you drew, and you’re just going to sew from that corner to that corner. Now 𝗱𝗼𝗻’𝘁 look at your needle! Look at this line here and follow that line all the way. Again, I’m not looking at the needle. So this is what your stitching line is going to look like. This is where you put the needle down and you stitched all the way right off that corner. Now you are not going to remove it from the foot. Leave it there because you’re going to do your next piece. This piece here, which was the last piece you sewed, you are going to take that and put your hands all the way to the next edge and here you have now the right sides again. You will take the next piece from your lap, and you’re going to take the top piece and you’re going to match them up again, just like you did before. And again, you’re going to have the edges hang over. And you’re going to sew from that corner to that corner. Now as long as your fabric is nice and straight, you’re not going to have a problem. So you’re going to twist it agai n—and I’ve not removed this; there’s no reason. It’s already off of the needle, so you won’t re-sew it. So you’re going to take that point and you’re going to butt it up against that needle again, making sure that this line is straight, and start sewing. Again, keep your eye here on this line as you’re going through. You do not need to watch the needle. And I’m going to pull this through again and just continue. Let me get you a real close-up view of how we’re going to do this 45° angle. So we’ve lined it up. The needle is going to go right there in that corner, so you’re just going to slide it right against the needle. This is the line you’re going to follow. So you see how you’ve gone right off into that point? So you’ve gone from corner to corner. And you’re going to continue that, all your strips, without trimming them off. Just do one piece right after another. So all of the pieces have been sewn together. Lift your foot and pull your thread out. Now just take it and snip it between the first two, and what you’re going to do is just trim along here you don’t have to go all the way and then go approximately a quarter of an inch, somewhere around that, it’s really not that important as long as you have a good workable size. Go right off and then trim along there. And that’s how it’s going to look when you’ve finished the trimming. Then I will follow to the next piece and do the same. You just need to get to the next piece and you’re going to continue. That little starter I’m going to be able to trim that off, and see how nice it was. It prevented the needle from going in and catching all that fabric underneath, and sometimes it does that because the fabric is very fine. So there we have it. It’s nice and straight and when I get to the iron I’m going to press this open. So all of my seams will be open along my entire strip. So I’ve press them opened and flat, and there’s no little bump on this side. The next thing you’re going to do is you’re going to press this in half. And by doing that 45° angle, there’s no bulk. As you can see, you have one part of the seam starting here, and you will have the other edge over here. And your binding is ready to go on your quilt. So there we have it. The binding is all pressed and it’s ready to go. Now this binding was done on a straight of grain. You can also do the same method with a 45° so your binding will be a bias binding. We’ll cover that another time, but this is the basic, very simple way to do it. And you didn’t have to cut off all of these little 45° angles first, and there was no measuring, you just were able to go to the machine and get them all done at the same time. It’s a really great timesaver and it’s very accurate. Thank you for joining me and subscribe and, as always, come on back and let’s see what we’re sewing next time in the room, because I think I’m going to have to sew the binding on now. Bye for now.