How to Make a Window Seat Cushion


Eric: This video’s brought to you by Sailrite.
Visit Sailrite.com for all your project supplies, tools, and instructions.
In this video tutorial we’ll show you how to make your own window seat cushion. This
is essentially a rectangular box cushion. Ours will incorporate angled sides on the
two ends to fit our window seating area. Watch this video then sew up your own cushion for
your home! You can pick from thousands of home décor & upholstery fabrics from Sailrite.
All it takes is fabric, patterning material, high density foam, a zipper, piping- if desired-
and thread. Don’t have an industrial sewing machine? No problem! Most home sewing machines
can easily sew cushion fabrics for your home. Adding a window seat cushion is a stylish
way to add a comfortable seating area that adds beauty to any room.
If the seating area were simply rectangular, we could just take a width and a length measurement,
but ours includes angled ends. So we need to pattern for the seat’s shape. First we
need to take a measurement along the longest side and also a width measurement. Now we
can use Dura Skrim Pattern Material and cut it to the approximate size of our opening.
The Dura Skrim Pattern Material should be a few inches larger than the width and the
length because we’ll be cutting it down to size once we fit it into the opening and
trace around it with a permanent marker. Because our opening is so long, we need to join a
section of the Dura Skrim Pattern Material to itself to extend its length. We’ll do
that by taping sections together. Now we’ll take the Dura Skrim Pattern Material that
is slightly larger than our opening and place some sort of weights on it to keep it in position
and make sure that it stays perfectly flat. Here we’re using magazines. Now we’ll
use a permanent marker and mark right along the wall edge of the Dura Skrim Pattern Material
and along the front edge. We’ll cut it out with scissors. We did not show that. Then
we’ll confirm that it fits perfectly in our area and mark the top side. This pattern
is our desired finished size of the cushion. Take all the guess work out of patterning
by using Sailrite’s Fabric Calculator. We’re going to use the Sailrite Fabric Calculator
to figure our rectangle pieces and our boxing strips and our zipper pieces. So we’ve already
entered our width and our length of our cushion and our thickness, which is 3”. We want
one cushion and our fabric is 54” wide. Right here are all my dimensions for the foam
and for the fabric. The yardage that I need and any other supplies that I need such as
the zipper or the thread, piping. If I scroll down a little bit farther I get the panel
rendition, which is two rectangle cushions in the green. The angle of the window seat
is not shown here; we have to cut that in ourselves. The two orange strips are my boxing
strips and these blue strips down here are my zipper plaques. Eric: The Sailrite Fabric Calculator not only
gives detailed measurements, but it also provides a list of materials that you can purchase
from Sailrite. The Sailrite Fabric Calculator app is free
on our website. But if you’d like to be able to put in more dimensions and add more
variables to your cushion, you can purchase that at the app store and you’ll get more
detailed instructions and the ability to put in more dimension in your cushions. Eric: Utilizing Sailrite Fabric Calculator,
we’ve ordered the fabric and supplies that we need for our cushion. Now we’re ready
to start. Before I cut the actual measurements of my
cushion, I’m going to cut this selvage off because I don’t want these pin marks in
my cushion. So I’m going to cut along this red dot that’s right at the bottom, and
then I’ll know I have a straight edge. Eric: Using Sailrite’s Fabric Calculator
we can basically determine the required rectangular size of the plates for our cushion. I know that my cushion needs to be 128 ½”
long. So I’m going to divide that in half because my table is not big enough to cut
the whole piece out in one. Put a pin here and then I’m going to fold my fabric in
half to cut the other side of this cushion. Eric: That pin that Cindi inserted is the
half way point for the length of our cushion. It is so long that it won’t fit on the table.
So we’ll fold it in half. It’s folded along the pin; that’s the halfway point. I have my fabric folded with my pin right
in the center here, and I’m going to double check my measurement before I cut anything.
That looks good. So I’m going to mark the depth of my cushion, which is 21 ½”. Eric: The Sailrite Fabric Calculator says
we need to cut the plates width to 21 ½”. Here’s a helpful diagram that may help with
the anatomy of a box cushion. We’ll be referring to these phrases throughout the video. The
actual desired finished width is 21”. The extra ½” here is added to the plates. A
¼” extra for all sides of the cushion. I’m going to need two of these pieces so
I’m going to go ahead and measure the second one before I cut. Eric: Our seam allowance for this cushion
is a ½”. So you may be asking yourself, “Why is only a ¼” being added to each
side?” We’ll discuss that after Cindi explains what she’s doing next. I’m just going to put a few pins in these
pieces to hold them together while I’m cutting them. First I’m going to cut out the rectangles
and then I’ll put the angle of the window seat in it. Eric: The reason why we’re only adding ¼”
to each side of the cushion is because we want the cushion’s plate to be slightly
smaller in size than the foam to give the cushion a nice and tight fit over the foam.
We’re using scissors here to cut the fabric because it’s faster. But if a hotknife were
used, the edges would not unravel as much as you’ll see throughout this video. It’s
your choice. Now I’m going to lay one on top of the other
so that all the angles are the same with the wrong sides together. Eric: The two short ends of our window seat
have angled edges so we need to cut that in. We’re going to pattern that next. So put a few pins back in these two pieces.
I have the two pieces wrong sides together on the table. Just a couple pins to hold them
together, and use my pattern. We’ve got the top marked, and I want to cut this the
same way with the top of the pattern up on the right side of the fabric. My piece will
be cut a ¼” bigger all the way around. So I want to allow for that ¼” here and
here. Eric: The pattern we made earlier is placed
on top of our rectangular fabric that we cut to size. She’s making sure that the pattern
is a ¼” from the two long edges, and then she’ll pin the pattern material down onto
our decorative fabric. The decorative fabric two pieces have been laid on top of each other
and pinned together. So we are going to make exact duplicates. So I’ll also add a ¼” along this angled
seam. Eric: As discussed earlier, a ¼” should
be the extra fabric all around the perimeter of our decorative fabric on both the top plate
and the bottom plate. Cindi is cutting through both layers of fabric- the top plate and the
bottom plate, that is. The top plate is facing up and the bottom plate is facing down. So
the wrong sides are facing each other. Because this fabric is super long in length, she folded
the one side that’s done so that she can put the other side on top of the table. They
should match up with each other exactly. They’ve been pinned together just like we did on the
other side. We did not show that. This end also needs to be a ¼” bigger than our pattern.
The pattern should be a ¼” from the long sides as well. She’ll pin it in place, mark
a line/strike a line, and then cut along that line just as we did on the other end. Next
up, we’re going to use match up marks. They’re kind of important for long cushions like this.
But they’re also useful for smaller cushions. Cindi will explain. Okay I’m ready to take my pattern off. I’m
going to put some pins in my two pieces to hold them together. My next step will be to
make some marks in these two pieces so I have a guideline of where to sew everything back
together. I want to do that on this one because it’s such a long seam so that I can keep
everything lined up as I’m sewing. Eric: The two plates must be matched up perfectly
on top of each other. So I’m going to fold it in half on top of
each other and mark the center at the front and the back of the cushion. When I stitch
this I want to start at the center and go out and around and here and down. Eric: At the folded locations, a match up
mark is cut out of the fabric. Then the next one I’m going to just guesstimate
half way between the end and the center and… Eric: These match up marks are typically triangles
cut no deeper than the seam allowance. You do not want them to go into your seam allowance. You’ll want these to be much deeper than
a ¼” because our seam will be ½”. The same thing on the backside of the cushion. Eric: Okay, what will these match up marks
be used for? Well, when we finally add the last plate to the assembly in Chapter 8, we
want the plate to match up exactly to this one. These match up marks will help us accomplish
that task. This is especially important for long cushions like this. Our plates are done.
We can remove the pins. Next we will cut the boxing. This is the front band and a portion
of the side bands for the cushion. My boxing strips are cut at 3 ½” according
to the calculator. So I’m going to cut those the complete length of my top plate and bottom
plate along the length of this piece of fabric. Eric: The suggested positioning of the boxing
is shown in the Sailrite Fabric Calculator’s panel rendering. It’s shown in yellow here.
We will be inserting High Density Polyurethane Foam in our cushion that is 3” in thickness.
As discussed earlier, we will be sewing a ½” seam allowance. Adding only a ½”
to our boxing may not seem logical, but it is. Here again we want the boxing to be slightly
smaller than the width of our foam. So the ½” seam allowance will be removed from
both sides of the boxing when the plates are sewn to it. So our final width of the boxing
will be slightly more than 2 ½” when completed for a nicer, tighter looking cushion. So I’m going to fold this. Then I can just
cut along this edge and not have to measure the next piece. I need two of them that length.
So I’m going to put just a few pins in this to hold it in place while I cut. Then I’m
going to do the same thing with this piece- fold it up. Eric: Since our boxing is so long, Cindi folded
the portion that she measured and cut to size. She used that to continue cutting the length
along this fabric. So this is just a shortcut that she’s showing you. We skipped ahead.
Both boxing pieces are cut out. One of these strips I’ll cut in half to
add onto each end of the longer one. Eric: By cutting the one strip in half, we’re
assured that we’re not going to have a seam in front of our cushion. It’ll probably
be off to the sides this way. So she joins one half to one end of the long strip and
the other half to the other end of that same long strip. They’re pinned together so the
right sides are facing each other. We will sew a ½” seam allowance there in a later
step. Next up, our zipper plaque. There is the boxing strip. Eric: A zipper plaque is typically the back
edge of a cushion where the foam is inserted and the zipper is zipped shut to conceal the
foam and allow access to insert the foam in the cushion cover. Our zipper plaque is 4 ¾” wide so we’re
going to cut that across the width of the fabric. If you look down here, we need three
of them. Eric: Zippers can be done a variety of ways.
We have other cushion videos that show making zipper plaques differently than what is shown
in this video. Here we took our cut size boxing- for us it was 3 ½”- and we’ll add the
width of the zipper. Our zipper is about 1 ¼” wide. So here we are cutting our zipper
plaque width to 4 ¾” wide as the Sailrite Fabric Calculator says. I’m going to cut one of these in half (one
of the three) and add it to the other two. So I have the correct length for my zipper
plaque. So I added the half width to each end of the two long pieces. Now I’m going
to pin the two long pieces together. So I end up with the seam in the center and then
balanced on each side for this zipper plaque. It’s going to be a little bit longer than
what I need, but I can cut it to size after I start working with the zipper.
I’m ready to sew the zipper plaque pieces together so that the zipper is long enough.
So I’m just going to do a ½” seam here and back stitch at each end. Eric: Outside surfaces are facing each other.
Cindi is sewing about a ½” from the raw edge of the fabric. She’ll join all of the
zipper plaque pieces together. Our zipper is 1 ¼” wide approximately. So half of
that is about 5/8”. Our zipper tape, or our zipper seam, we want
to be 5/8”. We have a ½” and ¾” mark on the machine. So my zipper tape is 5/8”.
I’m going to center that and my needle and then I know where the 5/8” lands for my
magnetic seam guide. So I’m going to snug that right up against the zipper for my 5/8”
seam. I’m going to switch the stitch length over to 8mm so it’s a nice long stitch and
it’s easy to take out after I get my zipper in.
This is the full 4 ¾” width of my zipper plaque. I’m going to fold it in half so
that these cut edges meet. This is where I’m going to do my 5/8” seam. I’m going to
put the fold up against my magnetic seam guide, keep these two edges out here even, and use
this long stitch to stitch this together. Eric: Half of our zipper is 5/8” so this
stitch is placed 5/8” away from the fold. Seam confusing? Well it won’t be shortly
so keep watching. When I come to the seam I want to open this
up so that it’s not so bulky. Make sure they stay opened up when it goes underneath
the foot. Eric: We highly recommend the Deluxe 5 ½”
Magnetic Sewing Guide, as seen here. We are sewing this up with the Sailrite Fabricator
Sewing Machine and Power Stand with a Workhorse Servo Motor available from Sailrite. I have my cushion plate. I’m going to fold
it in half to determine how long I want my zipper plaque to be. So this is the back edge
where the zipper will be installed. Remember this is a little bit longer than what we needed.
So I’m going to trim it to size now. So we have a seam here at the center back, and
here’s the back corner of my cushion. We actually have a lot more than we needed. We
really didn’t need to add this part on. I want this to come around the corner maybe
8” or 10”, which’ll make it easier to get the cushion in. So I’m going to trim
these off, and this piece here will be the length of my zipper.
This is my 5/8” seam right here where that stitching is. I’m going to slide the scissors
into that fold and cut that open all the way the length of the zipper. I’m going to cut
this slowly and make sure that it remains half on each side so that my zipper will have
enough fabric to catch when I stitch the zipper in there. We used the calculations on the
Sailrite Fabric Calculator to cut the zipper plaque size and the band size. You can see
that when you make the zipper that way, it comes out exactly the size that you need to
match your boxing strip. So after I’ve cut it open I want to use
the ruler to flatten out this seam nicely so I can put my zipper in. You can also flatten
your seam this way by pulling it along the edge of the table. Eric: We want our stitch length to be about
4mm-5mm for this cushion so that’s been reset. Now we can sew the zipper in place.
Cindi’s sewing along the left side of the presser foot so that the presser foot is up
against the zipper’s teeth. It can also be positioned on the right side of the presser
foot, which would put the stitch a little bit closer to the teeth. That would probably
be my preference, but it’s not a big deal. It is important to keep the zipper positioned
over the splayed open section of the fabric underneath. If it’s cut accurately, it should
be almost the same width as the zipper itself. The zipper can be cut as the same length as
the zipper plaque (the decorative fabric). Then when we reach the end, do some reversing
to lock the stitch in place. Now we can sew the other side by starting on the other end.
Be sure to sew on the same side of the presser foot as you did on the first stitch so they’re
equally spaced from the teeth. Be sure to hold the zipper down flat as you sew this
side. Since it’s already held in position, we can sew rather quickly. Now this is the stitching that we did with
the really big stitches to hold this center nice and straight. I can snip this open to
open up the zipper underneath. Just be careful; cut stitches and not fabric. Eric: We’ll set the zipper plaque aside
and the boxing. Now we’ll concentrate on how to make piping. This is an optional step
for your cushion. So the app shows that I need 621” of pre-fabricated
piping. I’m going to make my own. So I’m still going to need that amount of fabric
cut for my piping for this cushion. I’m ready to cut my bias strips for my cording.
I like to cut this on the bias because it goes around the corners a little bit better.
It lays a little bit smoother. That would be a 45 degree angle. So I’m using a ruler;
the 45 degree line is right here along this cut edge of my fabric. I’m going to use
the Rotary Cutter and start my first strip. Eric: Simply squeeze the handle to engage
the blade. The blade will automatically retract when the handle is released. I want to cut these strips at 1 ½” to end
up with a ½” seam allowance when I’m ready to sew. Eric: We’re cutting this decorative fabric
along the bias. Placed underneath the fabric is the Self-Healing Rotary Cutting Mat. It
is important to use that to keep the blade of the Rotary Cutter nice and sharp. We’re
also using the Clear Acrylic Ruler. You can see that my fabric is too wide for
the ruler now. So I just fold it up in half along this straight edge and continue cutting
1 ½”. Eric: The Comfort Grip Rotary Cutter, the
Clear Acrylic Ruler, and the Self-Healing Cutting Mat make a great combination for cutting
fabric applications like this and more. Piping is optional. We’re making enough piping
for both the top side and the bottom side of our cushion. When I stitch the piping together, I want
these two straight edges to be like this where I have an angle here and an angle here. I’m
going to stitch from the angle to the angle with about a ¼” seam there. Eric: She pins these sections together so
they can be sewn in a later step. Any selvage edge is cut off and they are cut to the appropriate
angle. She’ll explain that now. In order for this to work, these two angles
have to be going the same direction. Eric: One strip is placed on top of the other
so outside surfaces are facing each other and you have the dog ears, as you saw earlier.
They’re pinned together, and continue doing that until you have all of your piping strips
pinned together. Now these strips can be sewn together. The stitch is about a ¼” from
the edge of the fabric. No need to do reversing at the beginning or the end for this. When
the strip is folded around the piping, it will secure that stitch. Thus, no reversing
is necessary. Because we did some chain stitching, when we’re done sewing all the strips together,
all we need to do is trim the thread that joins each one of the strips side by side.
There’s what a finished strip looks like. To sew the piping, or cording, we need to
install a cording foot. Here we are installing the ¼” cording foot for the Sailrite Fabricator
Sewing Machine. We set our stitch to about 5mm in length. This cording foot has a tunnel
that accommodates the piping. We’ve inserted the Medium 5/32” Welting Cord inside of
our strip and are now sewing it in place of the stitches right alongside of that piping.
This is one of my favorite cording’s. It’s made from Polypropylene so it doesn’t soak
up water and it’s very flexible. Any seam should be splayed open as Cindi’s doing
here. We’re using the Coats Extra Strong Nylon Upholstery Thread, available from Sailrite.
When sewing cushions in upholstery for indoor applications, Nylon thread is best used since
it stretches and conforms when the cushion is sat on better than Polyester thread. However,
Polyester thread lasts longer for outdoor applications, and thus, its best for cushions
used outdoors. I’m going to attach the piping to the backside
of my cushion, which is the narrower side. Here’s the mark that I made for the center
of my cushion. So I’m going to start the cording right around at the center spot. Leave
a couple inches before I start stitching. Eric: Those couple of inches or more will
be used to join the piping together when it’s sewn all the way around the cushion. When I come to this angle, I’m going to
cut a little slit in my cording right up to the stitching so that I can work it around
that angle and stop my machine at the cut. Eric: This cut was placed in the flange of
the piping. Lift the foot up a little bit and turn my
cording. Then go down this angle. This edge right here is a bias cut so try not to stretch
that as your stitching. Eric: Anything cut on the bias of the fabric
will stretch more than on the warp or the fill. Now we’re coming up to a corner that
is very drastic with a very sharp turn. Watch what Cindi does here. When I have an angle that’s this sharp,
I usually do two or three cuts to get around this one. Eric: She’ll sew up to that corner about
a ½” away from the other edge of the fabric, bury her needle, lift her presser foot, and
rotate the fabric around pivoting on that needle. Then she creates a very sharp turn
with the piping. The piping turns so nicely mainly because it’s that soft Polypropylene
piping called Medium Welt Piping available from Sailrite.
We’ve skipped ahead and here we’re coming to the other very sharp turn. So several slits
will be made in the flange of the piping to help it to make that turn smoothly. She’ll
sew up to the corner, stop about a ½” from the corner, needle’s buried, foot is lifted,
fabric assembly rotated, piping positioned, foot lowered, and then she’ll continue to
sew. Awesome corner! Let’s skip ahead to where the piping needs to be joined together
to the opposite end where we started. When I get back around to the area where I
started, I’m going to cut the piece that I’m still sewing on about 3” longer, undo
the stitching on that area, and I’ll undo it right up to where that other piece ends.
Cut off the cording so it meets with the other piece. Then I fold this piece back so I have
a bias edge right here, or an angled fold. Then I can lay this piece down inside of it
and fold it around it. Then you don’t have a whole lot of bulk right here with all the
seams laying on top of one another. They’re sort of separated so they’re not all falling
on top of each other. Eric: Now she’s sewing over the stitches
that began to sew our piping in place. She can stop there. Before I go any farther, I’m going to find
where I made my notches originally and cut those into the piping also so that I can see
them a little bit better. Eric: If your top plate and bottom plate both
have piping, which is optional, you should sew it onto that second plate as well. Let’s
move on and now discuss our boxing. These are the two pieces I’ve pinned together
for my boxing strips so I’m going to do a ½” seam on each of these before I apply
the boxing to the cushion. Eric: Our boxing strips were very long in
length so we need to join two sections together. That’s all we’re doing here. I have my boxing strips sewn together with
the two seams. This long piece is going to go across the front of my cushion. So I’m
going to match up the two seams. Eric: She’s finding the center of the boxing
along its length. And cut notches where the fold is to line
up with the notches that I’ve already cut on my cushion. Eric: These notches are the center location
where we will sew it onto the center of the plates. So here’s the notch on my cushion and the
notch on my boxing strip. I’m going to lay those together and stitch out and around this
way and then out and around this way. Eric: This boxing goes on the front side of
our cushion. Outside surfaces are facing each other. The notch in the center of the boxing
is lined up with the notch in the center of the plate along the front edge. Here we’re
using the cording foot again because there is piping underneath this assembly so we need
that tunnel again so that we can keep our stitch very close to the edge of the cording,
sometimes called piping. We’re going to skip ahead to a sharp corner again. When I get to this sharp corner area, I’m
going to make cuts in my boxing strip also so that it will go around that corner, maybe
about 3/8” in and two or three or maybe four. Eric: Same process. Sew up to the corner,
needle’s buried, foot is lifted, assembly rotated, foot lowered, and then continue to
sew. Notice the super slow speed control of the Sailrite Fabricator Sewing Machine with
the Workhorse Servo Motor. This is accomplished not only because of the Servo Motor, but because
of the Stitch Pro Balance Wheel with Posi Pin. It’s only available at Sailrite. If
you need a great sewing machine like this, check out the Sailrite Fabricator at www.Sailrite.com. This is the back corner of my cushion right
here. I remember that the zipper is going to come down about that far or so into this
angled seam. So I’m not going to stitch any farther on this side. I’m going to leave
this loose and then trim it off when I put my zipper in to make it fit without having
to measure it. Now I’m going to go back to that center spot on the front where my
notch was and sew the other direction. Eric: Same procedure sewing the other direction.
We’re not going to show all of this. Now our boxing is on the underside and our plate’s
on top. But it’s exactly the same procedure as shown before so we’re going to skip ahead
here. Oh, before we skip ahead here, let’s show what to do at this sharp corner. We need
to cut some notches in the boxing there so it can take the bend. I don’t mean to brag,
but take a look at the slow speed control. All she’s doing is stepping on the treadle.
She is not touching the balance wheel. Notice that she can do a half stitch at a time here
so that she can easily maneuver around this very sharp corner without having to touch
the balance wheel. Now we can move ahead. Here’s the back corner on the other side
so I’m going to stop about 8” or 10” from the end of that corner because my zipper
is going to come down here also. Eric: It’s now time to grab the zipper plaque. I’m going to apply the zipper to the back
in the same way. This seam right here is the center of my zipper, and here’s’ the center
notch on the back of my cushion. So I’m going to line up the seam with that center
cut notch. Eric: Here she’s coming to a gradual bend,
or turn. Only one slit needs to be made in the zipper plaque boxing for that. Skipping
ahead slightly, we’re coming to the section where it needs to be joined together to the
boxing. So you can see that my boxing strip is a little
bit longer- a lot longer actually. I want to make a little pocket here for the zipper
so that the end of the zipper isn’t stressed when we put the cushion in. So I’m going
to lay the zipper on top of the boxing strip, pin just the zipper and one layer of the boxing
strip together, and just bring that area over to the needle. Eric: In order to bring this over to the needle,
she stops short of where it joins together by several inches so that she can do this
step now. This will be my zipper stop. Eric: That was cut out of some of the scrap
fabric that will need to be cut away. She folds it in half and then lays it on top of
the end of the zipper. She will do some reversing at the beginning, sew through the zipper carefully
so that the needle does not deflect and also that stop she placed down, and then do some
reversing at the other end. Then I can trim all of this extra off right
there at the end of that seam and finish stitching this open area with that fold to protect the
end of that zipper. Eric: Since we started sewing the zipper plaque
on at the center location, now that it’s sewn on on this direction, we need to reverse
the assembly around and sew the other half. So I’m going back to the center where I
started at the seam and the notch and I’m going to stitch the other direction. Eric: This is basically the same procedure.
Then when we get to where we need to join the zipper plaque to the boxing, we’ll stop
short by a few inches and follow that same procedure yet again. So I’m going to do the same thing as I did
on the other side (give myself a little bit of protection there from the end of the zipper).
This side needs the slide on it. Eric: A very important step. Don’t forget
to place the slider on before you sew the end of the zipper closed. When installing
the slider, make sure the puller is facing the right side of the fabric. So I only have the zipper and one layer of
boxing strip pinned together. Eric: Since you’ve already seen this done,
we are not going to show the full process here. So we’re going to skip ahead. Next
up, we’re going to join this assembly to the final plate. First we’re going to make
sure our match up marks are visible and transfer them to the boxing. So in order to use these notches that we’ve
already cut into the plate of the cushion, I want to mark it into my boxing strip. So
I’m going to trim it into this one. Use that same little triangle that I’ve cut
out before. Then to transfer it over to here, I want to fold this back and make the same
cut here so that I have that notch to use when I apply
the plate on the other side. So I’m going to do that all the way around on all the little
cuts. This center one I already have one because I marked that when I first matched up my centers. Eric: Once all of those notches, or match
up marks, are placed on our boxing, we highly recommend using Seamstick for Canvas ¼”.
Cindi’s going to discuss that now. We’re going to use the ¼” Seamstick Basting
Tape and apply it to this other plate so that it’s a little bit easier to… It’ll hold
it together when I’m sewing. It’ll eliminate the need for any pins. Try to keep it away
from the piping a little bit so it’s not under the needle when you’re stitching. Eric: The ¼” width is perfect for upholstery
applications for that reason alone. Now I use the marks that we’ve cut- the
little notches that we’ve cut- in our plates and our boxing and match those up. Because
this is such a long seam, it’s hard to keep everything in line. But with these notches,
I can match up the notches and work from there. Eric: Since we are using the Seamstick to
pre-baste the assembly in place, we will be assured that our last plate will fit perfectly
in place before we start sewing. We don’t have match up marks at the corner, so watch
what Cindi does here. On this corner, I’m going to fold the corner
back on itself with the seam even. Then I can notch out here. That needs to land out
here on this corner. Eric: If we were not basting or pinning, the
match up marks could be used as we sew the assembly together to ensure a good match.
A professional seamstress would not use pins or basting tape. The basting tape is going to hold everything
in place for me. Eric: But we highly recommend it for anyone
that has not done a lot of sewing. I can do the same thing back here- fold this
back on itself so the seams line up out here and then make a notch over here. That little
notch needs to land on this corner. Remember we have this part folded under to protect
the end of the zipper. Then I can do the same thing on the back. My seam was my center and
there’s my notch. So I can match the notch up with the seam and press it in place. Eric: Another great benefit of using the Seamstick
¼” Basting Tape for Canvas and Upholstery is that if you baste something down and something
doesn’t match up or it’s slightly off, you can peel it up again and re-baste. Since this edge is all basted down all the
way around with the basting tape, I don’t have to start at the center and go out. I’m
going to just start at the center back and go all the way around. Eric: Since our cushion utilizes piping or
cording, our cording foot is still installed on the Sailrite Fabricator machine. Here we’re
coming to a slight curve, or turn. Notice how slow we can go. We bury the needle and
pivot the assembly then continue to sew. The speed control of the Fabricator Sewing Machine
with Workhorse Servo Motor is simply controlled with the foot treadle. Push down gently on
the treadle and the machine can sew one stitch at a time. Push down firmly and the machine
sews fast, but will stop almost instantly as soon as you release the treadle. The final
plate is sewn together. Now she unzips the zipper and starts to turn the assembly right
side out. In the process of turning it right side out, she carefully checks the corners
making sure that the piping looks good and the corners sewn well. If she sews too far
away from the piping, she can always re-insert it back into the sewing machine and correct
the issue. Ours looks great. Because our cushion is so big, we have to
glue sections of foam together. Then we also have to cut it to size. That’s next. Sailrite
recommends using a High Density Polyurethane Foam for window seat cushions. However, the
foam length is not long enough to accommodate our window seating area. So we will glue sections
of foam together using Sailrite’s Foam Lock Spray Adhesive. This is a rather inexpensive
spray glue that works great for gluing foam together- a common practice in the upholstery
industry. After spraying both surfaces, feel the glue to be sure that it is tacky before
you bond the foam together. Try pressing both halves together uniformly. Once it’s been
bonded together and pressed together, the glue will hold permanently. Now we have a
section of foam that’s large enough to cover our area for our window.
We’ll go back to the Sailrite Fabric Calculator and check out the dimensions of the foam.
Our general guideline for cutting foam is to add 1% to both dimensions, but never add
less than a ½” to one dimension. The way I like to do this is by taking the longest
measurement for the side and end and multiplying those by .01 and dividing that by 2. This
is the amount I will add to each side and each end. For our foam, we will add 5/8”
to the ends and ¼” to the long sides. The patterning material has been laid on the foam.
Here Cindi is measuring over 5/8” from the pattern material. She’ll do that on both
ends- 5/8”. This is for our cushion. Here on the sides, we need to add ¼”. So the
pattern material’s a ¼” from the edge of the foam. Here along this side she marks
it a ¼” larger. So the foam is slightly larger than the area it sits in because when
the cover is placed on it, it will compress it slightly.
We’re using a permanent marker to mark the foam. After it’s been marked, we use a straight
edge and strike lines. Notice here on the ends, this is where we need to add 5/8”
for our cushion. We are measuring perpendicular from the edge of the pattern material. Then
we’ll strike lines there as well. To cut the foam, we’re using the Acu-Cutter
350. This is a special foam cutter that’s available from Sailrite. Cutting directly
on top of those lines we struck on the fabric. You can also cut the foam with an electric
kitchen knife. It is true that a High Density Polyurethane Foam is a little bit more difficult
to cut. If you do not want to invest in one of those expensive foam cutters, you can use
an electric kitchen knife as we are here. But be careful to try to hold the blade as
straight as possible when you’re cutting the foam.
We’ve opted not to use a Polyester Batting on the top side of our foam. The batting would
help round off the corners slightly, and it can help fill loose fitting covers that may
not be made as precisely as ours is. To insert the foam inside your cover, you’ll have
to push the foam into the edges and into corners by inserting your hand inside the cushion
cover. A second helper can help with this job. You can expect to have to insert your
hand several times and pull the fabric into position so that the foam is resting right
where it should be. Take your time and be patient. When you have everything in place
and you feel like the corners are filled with the foam appropriately, you can start to zip
the cover shut. When we made the zipper plaque, we made a fold over at the end where it meets
the boxing so our slider rests neatly inside of that fold.
Our window seat cushion is now complete ready for the window seat opening. Coming up next
is the materials list and the tools that we used to make this window seat cushion. Just
because we used an industrial sewing machine to sew our project doesn’t mean you’ll
need one. Typically most home sewing machines can handle cushions like this easily. The
figures shown in yellow is the quantity of items we used for the cushion shown in this
video. Do it yourself and save more than 50%-60% of what fabricator stores will typically charge.
The cost of materials including the High Density Foam for this cushion was under $250. To get
started with your next DIY cushion project, simply take a few measurements of the area
where you want the cushion. Then enter the measurements into the Sailrite Calculator.
Now you’re one step closer to beginning your cushion project. To see more videos like
this, be sure to check out the Sailrite website or subscribe to the Sailrite YouTube channel.
It’s your loyal patronage that make these free videos available. Thanks for your loyal
support. I’m Eric Grant, and from all of us here at Sailrite, thanks for watching.