How To Create Cut and Sew Apparel From Start To Finish


what’s going on guys John Santos and
today we made an into LA to meet with the guys the owners and the founders of
Indie Source Indie Source is a full garment production from your idea to a
finished product they take it and they take you step by step in order to create
that garment today we’re meeting with the founders which is Zack and Jesse
we’re actually going to go inside and have them give us the tour and then
explain the steps that are required in order to create a cutting so product so
whether you have an idea for a brand or perhaps you’re interested and may be
taking it on in the near future this is gonna be a resource that you could turn
to so let’s get it you know a few months ago we met at magic yeah we were talking
about you know how can we help entrepreneurs learn more about the
cutting so process while also giving them a resource yeah so thank you for
having us here today kind of show us around what what are we gonna get into
like when somebody brings a product so like they have an idea right what is the
process you guys take them through in order to create that finished product
well so step one is planning you got to plan out your collection and figure out
what you’re making so right here usually it’ll be reference samples that people
will send in this is leaning one of our project managers and she’s getting
information from one of our clients about what they want to do all right
everything from price points lead times the kind of fabrics they want the fit I
mean remember this is all custom so it’s not blanks this is anything underwear I
mean swimwear dresses everything houses everything you can think of so it starts
from a planning process so that she knows exactly what to source and we’ll
talk about the role of the project manager later on what we do is then we
start to source the fabric actually one resource the fabric so let me take you
over and I can show you some of their for fabric see example is that we
weren’t right so you guys got the two places you got this this office and that
office back there all right so you guys are able to coordinate everything for
different things so we have production and we have our product development over
here too and some some of it’s just administrative and some of its the
actual making of things through here and I’ll show you some of
the different fabrics that we work with there’s a wide variety of fabrics some
are imported some are milled here in Los Angeles so just depends on what you’re
looking for so here you got some different woven florals we have Jersey
Athletic where this is a fraction of what’s really out there but it gives you
kind of an example of how much you can choose from regs we’re not just talking
about hunters in cotton or polyester we’re talking about
thousands of different kinds of fabrics la is really cool because there’s
millions a yard sitting available just ready to go so if you’re trying to do
something quick then you can do it here and we can just pull that fabric from
those vendors that’s also that’s the next step once we’re done with that I’m
gonna take you over here to our pattern-making station so the pattern
making is the actual engineering or the fit of the garment that’s where we kind
of build the blueprint to your garment this is a digitizer okay so this is how
we take the measurement from the Garmon we put them into on this table mm-hmm
and we use a cursor and actually take the points that then sends it into the
system over here which we use a Gerber software not manual pattern making and
she builds the fit this gets printed out right here in this little plotter
and this is what you get okay so you have your pattern card which is the
directions and all of the things that the cutter and the sample maker need to
build the garment for the first time ever this doesn’t exist there’s no
instructions and this is the actual pattern with the different pieces first
cut out in its own and we’ll show you across the hall how we do that yeah and
we were discussing this during our sit-down time but it’s very important
that you start within the width with the best pattern in order for the production
to go smoothly because you can have a lot of different weird things that
happen if you start off with a crappy pattern one small thing one small thing
is wrong and you go into production it’s all wrong so so this is gonna be key to
begin with make sure that you guys start with a good pattern because this is
going to be essentially be the foundation to the success of that
garment in that line so you don’t want to skimp out or cut corners on it all
right no otherwise the whole thing will collapse you have to spend the time and
the thing is all pairs are not created equal alright we’re the Mercedes of
patterns over here so you got it really you got to be clear about what you’re
and this pattern card is an example of something as of the quality you need to
be able to move into the sample process also has limited stakes so you do less
rounds of it all right let’s go there’s a lot of different products going on
here and they’re able to obviously they’re not like this is different
entrepreneurs and different brands that they’re working with so every customer
has a very specific need and a specific function so it’s really cool how you
guys are able to manage all this different stuff all under one roof in
terms of it’s nice time our cutter is that lives but so you ladies at suit so
now we saw those patterns right so now those patterns are laid out right
here on top of the fabric that you choose so you have a fabric you choose
and you have the cut pieces she’s gonna cut out in the shapes right now we have
to cut pieces right so from there she’s gonna bundle them up and bring them into
the sample Sonia all right now this is the the sewing
room so from here this is where we take those cut pieces and sample makers will
build the garment and the way that they do that is by using that pattern card
they look at the pattern card they read the directions we see the pieces and
they have to figure out how to put the thing together a common question that I
get is how come samples are more expensive than production right well the
reason is is because you’re just making one right you’re not making tons and
just you have like a whole line of people that are just doing one part of
the shirt right you have one person doing all parts of the shirt and that’s
very important you don’t have ten people doing it you have to put it together so
it’s like the first iteration it takes more time though takes hours to put
together this thing not like second though and then from there they’re using
based off of the powder card the different machines that are required so
some garments require certain machines some require others and so based off of
that we use different machines what are you working on
don’t you call your hiring the bucket okay she’s ironing pockets you to take
these and he’s gonna so mana the garment school that’s rights to all these
different things again the cool part is that we only hire cross trained sample
makers so sound making lots of different things and they’ve done it for decades
they’re able to see the pattern card and actually put it together the first time
and as long as the informations right they’re able to get it done and here’s
the cool part is if they’re confused they walk across the hall talk to the
batter maker right so it’s it’s all good in there and that’s okay we want them to
talk because that is another thing it eliminates more confusion just ask some
questions hey what did you mean when you said this okay yep and then that also
helps in the development of the production so once you guys square away
the clear instructions you got to communicate that to your backers which
saves time and money so when you’re done with the samples you might have a wash
process or maybe a guy or a printing process and we’ll handle that too
when we’re finished with that that comes back here let’s say it goes through the
dye house who’s back from the dye house and then we do a fitting let me show you
a fitting so maybe but actually in the process in the middle of fitting for a
really cool shoe or a line called messed and these kids are just are building
something from scratch that I think they’re on their second fitting right
now so we can take a look take a peek of what they’re working so inside Lana or patternmaker is
communicating with Janine a project manager what notes to take what things
to change about the garment based off of the feedback from our fashion
entrepreneurs from the designers right so they put it on they feel a hit on
their body and then they decide what they want to change and then we’ll give
our feedback teaming together we come up with the changes we want to make so we
can finalize the garment put in the production they’re doing a great job in
there these guys are really creating their idea from the scratch and as you
guys have seen they have multiple styles so it’s there it’s indie sources job to
actually get it all to work and function for a production process so what is the
team comprised of and here in the company yep for each brand you have a
basically a project manager powder maker cutter and sample maker and that are
working on it now we have multiple paths of project managers working on all
different projects because we don’t then we get too overwhelmed with each thing
you can’t just have one so in any given time we’ll be working maybe 30 different
brands and they have lots of different styles so yeah that’s kind of like what
the core development team looks like and then when you move into production
one of other things is that we hear that there’s a lot of issues of communication
for manufacturers so we have David is actually sitting right here he’s our
Account Manager and he makes sure that all of the clients get updated so he’ll
communicate with you to say hey this is what’s going on right and that’s
something that was lacking in the industry and so we wanted to solve that
problem David helps us do that he works with
Judy production director and is a technical expert right really
understands and manages the quality control of the garments and so
everybody’s a different role at different stages of the process and that
allows us to you know work as a team once the development of your product is
completed and you are happy with the fit and function of your garment it then
goes to production during the production process your designs are mass-produced
to meet the demand of your brand all right cool it’s in the last thing
we’re done on production we’re finishing up with some trimming final QC and
making sure that everything is good before the garment goes out awesome guys
I hope you enjoyed this video and you were able to better understand the whole
entire cutting so as you can see there’s a lot of steps
involved with bringing your idea to life and I hope we made it a little bit more
clearer and better understanding Zach thank you and I appreciate you guys for
having us here man and like showing everybody out on YouTube you know one of
the things that we mentioned is the industry doesn’t a lot of the times
doesn’t like to share what actually goes on behind the scenes let alone give
people their patterns and a blueprint to start their brand so so that is the
reason that I when I spoke to them about how they do business it advises and the
mission that I have for the channel so I’m happy that you guys are on board and
you’re able to provide those resources to those entrepreneurs if you guys are
interested in getting your own government started we’re gonna be
linking a special page right down below where you guys can learn more and
they’ll be able to outreach you and see what stage in the production or perhaps
in the process you are and when you guys are ready to get started they’re gonna
be a great resource for you guys to turn to so once again I appreciate everything
here if you guys have any questions about this video comment right down
below we’ll answer them in this video or in a future video and more importantly
any other resources that we’ve mentioned or the links that we are gonna provide
are gonna be available right up on this left card it’ll pop up right over here
and if you guys have any further questions or want to review any of the
information that it’ll be also in the description down below so thank you guys
for watching and we’ll catch you guys on the next one from the ground up