Today I would like to make this
Free- style hoodie with you. This sweatshirt has several color blocking panel seams which allow you to combine different solid and patterned fabrics. In one of the seams there is a hidden slip pocket. The hood has a curved collar section which lays comfortably around the neck and keeps the neck nice and warm. If you like you can sew this sweatshirt in one piece without the panels. For example with a cool kangaroo pocket and a tubular collar. Our pattern contains all design variations and is available for woman, men and teenagers under the following link. I will be sewing the variations with the color blocking panels and a hood. I have already prepared the pattern pieces. The front bodice consists out of 5 pattern pieces which are numbered in the pattern. The pattern piece number 5 is the hidden pocket. The back bodice consists also out of 5 pieces,
but these are mirrored and there is no pocket. The hood is cut on fold and consists of one inner and outer hood piece as well as one middle panel for the inner and outer part. Both of the sleeves are first cut out completely, and afterwards the right sleeve gets divided. For this the top section is separated as marked and the top section is cut to piece the sleeve. Additionally we need each two pieces out of ribbing for the waist and sleeve bands, two grommets and tool to install and cord for the tunnel. And now we are ready to sew. We start with the front bodice and prepare the pocket. I already serged the top edge of the pocket and transferred the markings for the pocket from the pattern onto the left side of the fabric. Now we will place the pocket piece right sides together aligning at the notches, pin it and sew with a straight stitch at the line marked. Now we can flip the pocket and see that the edges align on all 3 sides. If you like you can secure the pocket’s mouth with a small zigzag stitch. To do this I drew a 1,5 cm line on both sides, choose a zigzag stitch with a short length and reduced the thread tension a bit. This is what the pocket mouth with the interlocking stitches looks like now. Now we can sew this piece right sides together with the pocket. Following by this top piece with this one here, always right sides together. I use my serger for this but you can easily sew this with just the sewing machine. Tips and trick for sewing knits with a regular sewing machine can be found in this video. In the following step we are sewing the top and bottom pieces right sides together onto one another. This is what our color blocked front bodice looks like. Now we sew the back bodice in the same manner but mirrored and without a pocket. To this I am sewing these pieces together and then those here, always right sides together. Finally we sew the top and bottom pieces also right sides together onto one another. Our back bodice is now also finished and we will now close the shoulder seams right sides together. This is what the shoulder seams look like now and we are ready to sew the sleeves on. For this I have already pieces the top of the right sleeve. Before we continue here we will iron all of the seam allowances in opposite directions to one another. The shoulder seam allowance
is ironed towards the back. All other seam allowances are ironed in one direction. There where the allowances meet,
for example here at the sleeve and armhole, we iron in opposite directions.This way this section will be thinner and easier to sew in the further garment construction. When everything is ironed nicely we can pin the sleeve onto the armhole right sides together. Pay attention that the notches and seams align with one another. I have already pinned the left sleeve and we will now sew the sleeves on with the serger. While sewing the sleeve is laying on top. The sleeves are installed and we can close the side seams in the next step. Here we pay attention that the seams from the front and back meet exactly. This is what the sweatshirt looks like now. Next we can prepare the hood. For this we pin the middle strip right sides together onto the curve on the hood on both sides of the long edge. I repeated this step for the inner hood.
Now we can serge the pieces together. While sewing it is easier when the straight strip lays on top so that you can adjust it to the curve. In the next step we are pinning the inner and outer hood right sides together and are sewing here at the curve. Finally we can turn the hood to the right side and iron the edge of the seam. If you like you can now install the grommets here at the outer hood. To do this follow the manufacturer’s directions matching the grommet size to the size of your cord. I have already installed my grommets If you need to see this step by step check out this video here: Next, we can sew the tunnel with the sewing machine. Correlate the width of your tunnel with the size of your grommets and the thickness of your cord. I pinned the fabric layers together and am using an edge presser foot with a spacer guide installed. This way I can easily sew next to the grommets. I start here on top of the middle strip. Our hood is done and we now can slip it into the turned sweatshirt. We are pinning into the neck opening right sides together using the notches as a guide. Pay attention that the grommets are facing the front. When everything is pinned well, we can sew the three layers together all around. Lastly we have to sew the waist and sleeve bands.For this I have already sewed the short edges of the waistband right sides together into a ring and folded the band in half with left sides touching. Furthermore I marked the center front and back with some clips. Now I can pin the waistband onto this bottom edge of the sweatshirt. Because the waistband is shorter
than the edge of the sweatshirt, we have to stretch the band and pin in between. The waistband lays on top while sewing and is being stretched to match the width of the bottom edge. The sleeve cuffs are also sewn into rings, folded in half and pinned right sides together into the sleeves. Seams and center lines match one another. Here we also stretch the ribbing
to match the opening while sewing. Last, we insert the cord and our self- made Free- style hoodie is done. I wish you lots of fun sewing and color blocking. Check out my other videos here in my channel. Please subscribe to stay current when there is something new from pattydoo, See you next time and bye bye!