Carbon Cleaning – How to Scrape and Walnut Blast your Intake Valves – MK7 VW GTI

hello Aaron Davis here FCP euro today
I’m gonna be showing you how to scrape carbon off your intake valves on my 2016
volkswagen GTI if you didn’t know there’s two ways you can go about this
one way you can actually use walnuts and use a media blaster to blast it second
way kind of a pain is you can manually scrape but our good friends at Lucca
Molly offer you a good valve cleaner so I’m gonna show you how this works and
I’m also gonna show you how to actually perform the wall nut blasting on your
intake valves some of the tools that we have here today are some ratchets from
half inch all the way down to a quarter inch with also torque wrenches we also
have extensions from anywhere from half inch down to a quarter inch we have add
a variety of screwdrivers and there’s also a complete list of tools I use that
you can find in the description below first thing we’re gonna do is open up
the coolant cap to relieve the pressure now I’m gonna take the engine cover off
and then move to removing the intake system so we’re going to take the hose
clamp off for them to comes right off and now since my intake was aftermarket
I have an extra bolt that your stock GTI will not have have a secondary air
filter that I have to remove as well and just like your stock intake these pull
up it comes right out now I’m gonna remove the air intake duct it is held in
by two t 20s and then to t25 s and you have to remove
the cool line now I’m gonna relieve the pressure in
the fuel system by loosening the 17 nut on the high pressure fuel pump it’s also
a good idea to wear glasses because you do not want feel going into your eyes
now I’m gonna take the hose off of the high pressure fuel pump now and remove
the belly shield held in by t25 that I removed the 70 25s I’m gonna use this
flathead to pop all the clips off there’s two of them right in the front
and then you can just release it just like this now I’m removing the coolant
pipe held in by two T 30s one right here one right here and then I’ll be also
removing this client for this coolant line now I’m actually gonna be removing
the line I’m gonna use our radiator hose pic to
free this hose up from the coolant now we remove the coolant crossover pipe
that goes right underneath the throttle body I’m gonna open up this brand new
CTA tool that a a32 and it’s perfect for these style for cooling clamps for Audi
Volkswagen right yes just spray really great
I could not get the clamp off so I just sprayed it with a lubricant so I can
actually go ahead and remove this hose now you’re gonna start seeing cool it
starting to come down please be careful with this line because it is plastic and
you do not want to break it and same up here I’m removing this line and I’m
gonna push this hose out of the way now I’m gonna disconnect the throttle body
connector and then free up the throttle body hose this clamp right here is held
in by seven radiator tool to free up those all right first thing I’m gonna do is
free up the harness use a 90-degree hook pic there’s a pin in there
he’s push it in slide it out push it out of the way
then this cool hose right here they’re gonna free up the same 90 degree a
second now it moves and then I’m going to remove the map sensor which I can use
as a hook pick to get underneath the tap and it will release next then remove the
two T 30s are holding the throttle body pipe and then now this T 30 located
right behind the map sensor make sure that they’re all fully freed up next
we’re going to move this the host that’s held in by seven client you want to use
a radiator hose pic to get behind you know the hose is free I got said before
make sure they’re all the t30 s are free for the block down free up that hose
free up this hose from the actual bracket and be careful this cool let’s
draw a swell and then work your magic snake this whole pipe out alright now
we’re going to move the intake manifold bracket it’s held in by a thirteen right
here and then right underneath the intake
manifolds held in by an m10 triple square now that I remove the bracket I’m
going to want to free up this wiring harness and it’s gonna be really on
there this is the bracket now we remove the throttle body that’s held in by four
aluminium t30 a good trick is to use this light have a
mirror in your non-dominant hand and then have the tool in your dominating
because the very very back t30 it’s hard to get to so you utilize the
mirror so you can see we’re lining up your tool same for this one use the
mirror and get the other back now it’s time for the front 230s now it’s time
for the very last t30 hold the throttle body because when you take this left
bolt out it tends to fall if you’re not holding it now I’m gonna free up the
wiring harness that runs our knee thing take manifold it’s good to use a hook
pick to have this release hold it down just like that this harness is also held
in by them charged pipe this harness is also held in by the pipe that runs
straight to the turbo so you want to free this up I’m gonna slide that
connector out from the bracket unplug it there’s one right underneath it same
pull it out you unplug there’s also a connector
right here hidden right behind this harness nope this is a great tab safety
tab so you pull it out squeeze and then release
don’t try to squeeze it with this tab fully locked alright there’s another
sensor right here that’s gonna be a pain to get out but really set as well that I
removed all the wiring for the sensors I’m gonna remove this bracket they’re
held in by two t30 that’s one you have to feel out cuz it’s a really tight area
underneath it and take manifold on this bracket is another connector actually
attached to it use a hook pic there’s a pin right here that you push in and then
this slides right out now we remove the oil filter housing it’s held in by 32
just give that a few seconds to let it drain so you don’t spill a little
everywhere yes disconnect this sensor as well same
thing gray safety tab you pull up on it to release now we remove the connector
for the sensor as well move out of the way now I’m gonna remove the intake
manifold it’s held in by two tens and eight T 30s I’m gonna remove the tens
first the screwdriver is magnetic so I’m gonna use it to my advantage so I don’t
drop this time now I’m gonna start moving the 1830s so out of that successful six when
removing the intake manifold T 30s i really suggest you actually use a real
back net right now we can’t find ours so I’m doing the best I can
now I’m gonna loosen up this T 30 right here so I can get access to the T 32
release the fuel line from the high pressure fuel pump this T 30 will not
drop it’s held in with a bushing so you don’t have to worry about that let’s
pull it up no I can snake it around and loosen up this T 30 now it’s time to
remove the intake manifold an issue we just ran into was this fuel line there
goes for the high pressure fuel pump to the fuel rail you’re actually gonna have
to loosen it up at the fuel rail to actually get clearance that remove the
intake manifolds so now it is yank up and now we’re gonna remove this sensor
two lines right here so you push that tab in now you gotta push
the Stabbin and it’s not releasing actually some of this vacuum line it
goes to the runner there’s your intake my awful alright now
I took my intake manifold off I’m gonna go ahead and take remove my coil packs
it’s a good idea to use a thin 10 for the second that that’s underneath these
or in this case we don’t have one that fits so we’re using some needle nose and
now just move the ground wires off of the studs take the 10 studs up now I’m
gonna take the tens studs are holding in the coil pack now we’re gonna go ahead
and disconnect the coil packs you can also free up this harness right here now
we’re gonna go ahead and remove the coil packs from experience it’s easier to do
this job when the engines are operating temperature but in this case it’s not
because I’m in the middle of a repair of doing a water pump in a thermostat
housing so I’m gonna pull these coil packs up and wish for the best now we’re
gonna go ahead and remove the spark plugs the only reason why I’m actually
removing these spark plugs is it’s easy to crank over the engine with them
remove because you’re not fighting anything and we have to crank over the
engine so that we can close all the valves to perform the carbon cleaning
you don’t want anything going into your combustion chamber now I’m gonna crank
over the engine so I can make sure that cylinder one’s valves are closed I get
before the car be cleaning I’m gonna use this very long screwdriver to determine
if the valve is on the upstroke and you can actually physically see this move up
to make sure that you’re going in the right direction for top dead center so
you just slide it in and actually cylinder one right here it’s pretty
close to top dead center so I’m just gonna crank it over to make sure that it
actually is I’m gonna turn over the crank with this 24 multi-point socket
and make sure that cylinder one valves are out top dead center now cylinder one
is that top dead center and the intake valves are closed you can tell this by
that I actually use the screwdriver and so I go up and also when you inspect the
valves you should not see any type of markings around there to make sure the
valves are fully seated I’m now and begin manually scraping the valves with
hook picks and also we’re gonna use the liquid moly valve cleaner and also be
swapping in and out with brake clean alright now I’m going to use a shop vac
to pick up the carbon I’ve scraped off now I scraped a bunch of the carbon out
the valve so I’m going to use the liqui moly valve cleaner and fill up the
port’s a little bit I’m gonna let that sit and do its thing for a few minutes
and then I’ll start scraping again you’re probably not gonna believe me my
own Boston to believe me but I actually just filled in the intake valves with
the look of my valve cleaner and I took a handful of zip ties and I zip tie them
together and you could actually use this to scrape the carbon inside while the
additive is in it now I’m going to use this oil extractor to remove the liquid
Mali additive from the valves now that I showed you
scrape Carmen off your intake valves on cylinder 1 now I’m going to show you the
other way including Carmen off for your valves by using walnut shells with a
blaster just like cylinder 1 I have cylinder 2
at top dead center the intake valves are closed I went ahead and I scraped off
the bigger carbon chunks with a pic and I used a vacuum to pick up all the
deposits I also did not have a funnel laying around so he made a coke bottle
work now I’m just gonna fill this up with walnut shells you want to make sure
that the top is really tight because we’re gonna be putting compressed air
into the system and you don’t want air leaking out while you’re doing the job
let’s not have the shop bare I’m gonna plug it into this air fitting right here
now that I have shot they’re hooked up I’m gonna turn on all the valves
yeah for this job you may find it easier if you have a buddy today I have my
buddy jr. here he’s in charge of social media here at FC Piero and we’re gonna
get right to it 0:34 motorsports makes this very handy
carbon cleaning tool first things first you want to attach your shop back to the
zero 3/4 motorsports tool and they’re gonna press it firmly against the
cylinder head and then you’re going to turn the shopvac on and then use the
wand right here in the port
now open my mouth yeah and you begin maneuvering it so you can
get the walnut shells all over the valve to get the carbon off of them
and you can see I’ve jr. here to help me hold it firmly against the cylinder
headaches I don’t want to make a huge mess turn off the wand
suck-up turn the shop back off and they’re gonna want to inspect the valves
to see what they look like oh yeah look at the carbons chunking off now that cylinder to intake valves are
done I’m gonna move on to cylinder three and four make sure the Pistons are at
top dead center and please make sure that the valves are fully seated before
proceeding to do the wall nut blasting and just like I did for cylinder one and
two I’m gonna get into the pick and scrape all the big carbon deposits that
I can vacuuming it all out and then perceived through the wall nut blasting
now the intake manifold slides that I took out of the cylinder head I’m gonna
clean them with a razor blade because there’s carbon buildup on this so you
just take your razor blade and you just straight back and forth and you’re gonna
see the carbon come right off it’s kind of a really bad noise that’s mostly gone
take a little car clean and just spray it and you dry it off now I’m gonna do
the same for the other three remaining now just like we just did with the
intake manifold slides I’m gonna clean the surface area on the cylinder head
where the intake manifold bolts up to but you always want to clean the surface
when you’re laying down a new gasket you just take a razor blade just like the
slides you just slowly start this great thing I don’t really recommend any using
power tools or took a wheel on this because you don’t want anything to go
the all aluminum which could cause like a week if there is a small gouge and
after when you’re done scraping I just take a rag with a little bit of carb
cleaner brake clean I just wipe it down to make sure all the debris is off and keep repeating this steps until you
see no more debris now I’m gonna take the intake manifold sides and put them
in they only go in one way I’ll put this one in backwards on purpose see how it
doesn’t fully seat that means it’s not in correctly so take it out flip it 180
and I should sit fully flush I’m gonna do the same for the remaining two and
they’re all fully flushed so now I’m ready laying the manifold actually had a
fault for the intake manifold flaps and they were not performing properly first
things first I’m gonna install the fuel line I’m gonna go ahead and put this
side first into the high pressure fuel pump and this one right here goes
straight to the fuel line so I’m gonna put the high brush the fuel pump one on
first and you want to do this hand typed until you can get the bottom line on like that don’t fully tighten it and the
trick that I learned as before I actually install this intake manifold
I’m actually going to leave the nut off of the few RL because I was having
difficulties removing my intake manifold because it was hitting the nut right
below the flare there’s one sensor right here that’s kind of a pain to plug in so
when I install this intake manifold I’m gonna plug this thing in first so now
just move everything around until you can actually see so I got that one
plugged in make sure you’re always pushing the gray safety tub now I’m
gonna use my hand and I’m gonna go underneath and take manifold and I’m
gonna have to try and thread this feeling and kind of blindly and never
force this on because the other fitting is brass and it’s you can easily strip
it and you’re gonna have a fuel leak if you do strip it so I’ve got the fuel
line started by hand this little plastic vacuum line that
kind of routes all way to your vacuum pump you’re gonna plug it in or slide it
on to the nipple and that’s on now the next step I’m gonna take before I
actually Bowl down there and take manifold is I’m gonna tighten up my fuel
lines and make sure I can actually get access to this nut right here now I’m
gonna take my stub u17 and tighten the fuel line down here right by the fuel
rail this one it’s kind of a pain to get to okay now find the rest by hand up top
yeah high pressure fuel pump go ahead this is real I’m gonna slide in
the top t 30s first not bolt them up let me give it just a couple of threads
actually pull the manifold a little bit in place but also give it some wiggle
room so you can get the bottom t thirties in and just tighten them by
hand just like that’s just a little bit nothing crazy
and you can use another finger to help you like line up the hole there’s a
little access right here tighten that in my hand just a little bit
we find it easy just like lift up on that payment a little bit now I want to
put the remaining two tens right here and tighten everything now I’m going to
torque the 1830s and the two tens to nine Newton meters from going inside out
so I’m going to start this make sure it’s hand tight I already have my torque
wrench set up that one’s torqued same again for the one right underneath it okay so the two middle ones are torqued
now I’m gonna do this top one right here I did this one I’m gonna go over here to
the left and do the bottom one because you want to torque this down evenly you
don’t want to over torque it it’s just a plastic intake manifold the one I just
went directly across I’m gonna go on top right here now I’m gonna go under I worked now the last t30 half the
torque is over here and then I’m gonna go and torque the two top tens torqued
last bolt torque air intake manifold has installed fully torqued
now I’m gonna swap over this sensor it’s located right on top of the manifold I’m
gonna swap over this little nipple it’s actually what secures your engine cover
now I’m gonna take this bolt off right here
it’s a t20 and you’re gonna need a hook pick you don’t hook the tabs right here evenly and then you’re just gonna pull
up one huh over here once the tabs are released you pull it up I’m just gonna
swap it shoots go home push it down make sure the clips are
fully seated I’m gonna go ahead and reinstall just hand tight this is
literally just plastic now when I take the nipple off which holds in engine
cover it’s a 13 so the plastic intake manifold there
actually is no threads for this so you make your own just be careful try to
make it as straight as possible slowly tighten it have enough move around for
easy guys like I said you’re making your own threads okay
that’s fully seated now the sensor plug it in make sure it clicks in push the
safety grade tab down now I’m gonna install the bracket that
holds in all these connectors but first this connector right here actually
slides on to the bracket so I’m gonna go ahead to 230s now I’m gonna put the t30
through the bracket that’s connected onto the fuel line just like that
now I’m gonna tighten this c30 down just looked up now I’m gonna plug in all the
connectors and attach them to the bracket that they only go into one
connector so you cannot mix these up no I’m gonna plug in this connector
right on top of the manifold now I’m just gonna remove this stud this is the
stud that helps you bolt up intake manifold bracket it’s just literally
hand tight you can take it off it’s gonna transfer it over to the new intake
so now I’m gonna install the intake manifold bracket Seldon by 1:13 not up
here the 13 not up here’s 10 mutineers and then a triple square I’m 10 down the
block the triple square m10 is 28 meters the brackets are so these four holes
right here for the 40 30s and this pin right here is an actual dollar pin for
our alignment it’s actually built on the intake manifold so if you line this up
get the T 30s you know this will be installed correctly the 40 30s are
supposed to be torqued at 7 Newton meters I’m gonna install a front T 30
make sure the throttle body is aligned and that way the throttle body will not
fall off and take manifold to get the back T 30s installed that’s a good idea
actually to use a mirror so you can see where the t 30s are located and they can
help you line it up in these t 30s rakitin to 7 Newton meters so not much
more than hand-tight now I’m install my L filter when I torque this the 2 point
5 Newton meters now I’m gonna put the throttle body
piping back in I’m gonna spray this help me slide it back and you have to go up
and down either you’re on jack stands are on a lift so now I’m gonna pull up
bar the body piping spray some more car clean around this thing fully see now
I’m gonna tighten the two 230 s that hold down isn’t cooler up I think I’m
the first T 30 it’s located right here it’s like right behind this pipe right
here second T 30s right behind your map sensor
make sure this hose is fully securing this clip it that plug in your map
sensor I mean I’m just gonna tighten up the boost hose right here and make sure
you slide this right back in the bracket now I’m going to tighten up the throttle
body hose up here I’m going to plug in the throttle body and I’m going to plug
in the coolant lines in this clip right here just clip it to the intake manifold
just like that this bottom coolant line is located right underneath the throttle
body I’m going to soak this line up start the hose up so I can easily slide
it back in make sure it’s fully seated use the special CTA pliers that’s clamped down now I’m gonna take
the fuel line I’ll get back up plug it in to the high
pressure fuel pump clip them the hoses back down onto the intake manifold
there’s a clip right over here close this now my slide it’s cooling on slide
it on slide right back I’m gonna put the two T thirties that hold this coolant
line in place back into the manifold first one is right here it’s right here
on the side of the manifold right next to your oil filter housing and these are literally just like hand
snug it’s nothing crazy it’s just holding the quilt line now we install
this air duct first now I’m gonna install my African market intake we have that time just make sure it
doesn’t come loose and I plug back in my secondary air pump hose to my
aftermarket filter all right I’m gonna plug in this line that runs across and
tighten down these two t20 sleepest right here now I’m going to install this
air duct cover has one big clip and then two t25 on the side when performing a
carbon cleaning you take the spark plug and the coil packs out because while
you’re doing it there’s a chance that some debris will actually fall into the
combustion chamber so you’re gonna want to do a dry crank to make sure that you
shoot all that stuff out make sure you have built up oil pressure make sure
I’ve built up fuel pressure before you put the spark plugs and their coil packs
back in now I’m gonna install my spark plugs
always install them by hand never use any power tools because you do not want
to cross thread these into your head did I hear a drill Dale Dale no power
tools this is my toothbrush yeah there’s not your toothbrush now let’s work all
the spark plugs 235 Newton meters now I’m gonna install my coil packs now
we install these four tens that bolt down the coil packs and these just have
to be installed and tight oh I forgot to spray paint them red stay tuned for my next deal why am i
teaching out of Plasti Dip your coil packs ready you’re gonna slide your
grounds back on just put these tens on do not over tighten it just has to be
tight so the ground doesn’t move if you over tighten it you do serious damage to
the wiring now you just want to slide down the tabs connect all the coil packs
make sure they all snap so you know they’re secure now I’m gonna top off the
coolant now we put the coolant cap back on now I’m gonna install my belly pan that’s held in my t25 last but not least
I’m gonna install my engine cover now that you’re finished with the repairs
it’s a good idea to turn your car on and let it idle for five to ten minutes just
to make sure that you have no coolant leaks or air leaks and right now I don’t
have either so I’m gonna go for a quick test drive and it seems like the car is
healthy if you liked the video don’t forget to Like and subscribe if you have
any questions leave in the comment box below thanks for watching you can
actually adjust it on firmness like this