Brogues & Wingtip Shoes Guide : How To Wear, Buying Tips & Style Advice

Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette! Today’s
video is all about brogues and wingtips. Full brogue, half brogue, quarter brogue, you name
it, we’ll cover it. First of all, what exactly is a brogue? The
brogue shoe has its origins in Ireland, Scotland and it was meant to be an outdoor shoe. Originally,
the brogue shoe was basically an untanned piece of cowhide which had holes to drain
the water from rain or when you worked. if you want to learn more about the history of
the brogue shoe, check out our in-depth guide on our website. Basically, the brogue has
hole perforations, that means, no matter what style of shoe you have, a brogue is a brogue
if it has holes. Oftentimes, people get confused between the word “brogue”, “Oxford”, “derby”,
“wingtip”, but it’s actually quite simple. An Oxford, is defined by its close lacing
system. A derby shoe is defined by its open lacing system. To learn more about Oxfords,
Derbies and differences, check out this video. Basically, it doesn’t matter what kind of
Oxford or Monk or Derby you have, it will be a brogue as long as it has holes. All the
pairs of shoes I’m going to show you in this video are going to be brogues. When you buy
a brogue shoe today, these are the hallmarks that you should look for” One, it should have heels. It should have
a toecap and a heel cap. Most importantly, what you always need is the hole perforations,
the broguing. Now that you know the basics, let’s get a little more specific. One of the
most well-known shoes is the so-called full brogue. It’s called that way because it has
a very specific cut and layout and it has lots of hole perforations. As you can see
here, this is a spectator shoe but it is still a brogue because it has the hole perforations.
Now a full brogue, always has this kind of winged toe cap and it looks like a W. It also
has perforations at the back of the shoe and the side of the shoe and sometimes you find
more broguing in some shoes than others but at the end of the day, it is still called
the full brogue shoe. Sometimes the full brogue is also called the wingtip because of its
winged tip, the W. Now a variation of this shoe is the so-called Long wingtip where the
cap extends all the way to the back. Compare it to the regular wingtip where the wing actually
ends somewhere in the middle of the shoe. The next famous kind of brogues is called
semi brogue or half brogue. As you can see here, a semi brogue or half brogue is defined
by a cap toe that is straight across with what is called a medallion on the top which
is the hole punching and it’s decorative. The next kind of brogue is the so-called quarter
brogue and as you can see here, it has the cap toe and lacks the medallion, but it has
the hole perforations along the edge. The fourth brogue is called Ghillie brogue
and it’s from Scotland and used today for formal evening wear and sometimes people also
wear it outside of that but it’s very special because it’s a lace up shoe but it doesn’t
have a tongue so it has a very unique look and it’s usually something you add to your
collection once you have all the basics covered. Definitely not something to start out with. Now these are the classic styles of brogue
shoes but there are many more. Lately, one model has been popular is the so-called U
cap or U tip brogue because it has this U shape. Sometimes, it’s further down or further
up and it’s just a variation of the wingtip and it looks different but it is till considered
to be a brogue. As I said, brogues can be Oxford, Derbies, or Monk straps. They can
be very elegant, work with lots of outfits so don’t shy away from these somewhat more
unusual styles, they’re really great and also very classic. To learn even more about brogues,
please check out our guide and if you enjoyed this video, make sure to subscribe to our
channel and sign up for our free newsletter and I’ll give you the book, 15 style mistakes
and how you can avoid them. Click here to sign up. Now you may wonder, how do I wear brogue shoes?
Basically, there are a few rules to consider. Rule number 1: The more broguing a shoe has,
the less formal it is. For example, a wingtip full brogue in brown is less formal than a
quarter brogue brown. Makes sense right? So if you have a gray, three piece business suit,
you’re not going to wear a brown or red full brogue. Usually you wear a black quarter brogue
or semi brogue because they’re much better. The seond rule to bear in mind is, do not
wear brogue shoe with evening wear. I know Prince William did it and it looked terrible.
He is not a good dresser and you should always stay away from broguing with evening wear.
If you have suits, especially more formal suits, try to go with less broguing than more.
of course, there are always exceptions to the rule. For semi formal combinations such
as blazers or sport coat outfits, I recommend you wear a full brogue shoe or you can go
with a half brogue. Try to go with more browns or red. Black, maybe but only if you wear
gray flannel pants with it. For jeans and chinos, I suggest you go a step further. You
can take full brogues and wing tips with a thicker leather sole. You can also do boots
with it. You can really experiment with different colors, you can go with suede, leather textures.
Overall, just emphasize the more casual character of your outfit. With brogues, you should definitely
avoid exotic leathers, simply because you already have the hole perforations and the
more holes you have, the more texture and structure you get. Now you add in a crocodile
leather, alligator or ostrich, it just is too much and you cannot really see the holes
any more and it’s not really elegant and stylish. So if you have brogues, try to keep the leather
as simple as possible, box calf leathers, may be scotch grain but not more than that. Overall, every man should have at least one
brogue shoe in his shoe closet and if you don’t have one right now, please check out
our videos on the first three men’s shoe you should start with. Thank you!