Bikini – Kwik Sew Pattern 4003


Professor Pincushion: Hi and welcome to Professor
Pincushion. In this tutorial we are going to be working on Kwik Sew pattern 4003. We
are going to be focusing on creating View B which is that bikini. So let’s take a quick
look at an example of what we will be creating today. This bikini has straps that tie behind
the neck and back. You can see the top has layered pinked edges for a unique look. The
bikini bottom also has a pinked ruffle to match with the top. Let’s continue with the information on the
envelope. The first thing I am going to consult which is on the back of the pattern envelope
is going to be the body measurement chart. This is going to determine what size we are
cutting out and also how much fabric we are going to need. Now you will see here, it’s
put up by bust, waist and hip and we also have back, waist and length. But this is for a bikini, so we are going
to keep it very simple. The top row for each section is going to be in inches, which you
can see over here and below that is going to be in centimeters. They just have the range
of inches in order to determine the size, you can see the sizes listed up here on top.
So you kind of just have to kind of fit yourself and arrange and then that’s going to tell
you. Now the nice thing is, since itís a bikini and you have the bra part and then
you have the panty section, you can do two different sizes. So if you fit better in a medium for the bust
line, you can cut out a medium for the bra. But it maybe small in your hips, so then the
panty section you can cut out a small. Next, it’s important to look at the suggested fabrics.
Since we are doing a bathing suit, it is so important that we do a knit that has a two-way
stretch. So they are saying, definitely use the spandex
Lycra and then actually give you this really handy chart, right here in the side. So if
you cut the pieces four inches out of your fabric, by holding it at the end, you should
be able to stretch it to here. If you are able to do that, then the fabric is going
to be appropriate to use. Next we can figure out how much fabric we
are going to need and it’s nice because I broke it up depending on whether or not you
are using 45 inch with fabric or 60 inch with fabric and this is all in yards. So depending
on what you have, you are going to have to look at the fabric information tag on the
end of the bolt. If I’m using say for example 60 you can go ahead and ignore this. We also know that we are doing View B, the
bikini, so we can ignore everything that says View A, so I’m doing 60, doing View B, I am
going to find my size, I am going to go down the column and then go across the View B row
and it says I am going to need 5/8ths of a yard of main fabric I am using for the bikini.
Then we also need lining, so this is going to go on the inside of the bathing suit and
it’s the same thing View B going down to small and I am going to need a half yard of
lining fabric. Then we also need additional notions, so not only do you need some matching
all-purpose thread before the bikini you are going to need 7 yards of 3/8ths of an inch
swimwear elastic. A And because of the design that they have on
the bathing suit, they also suggest to use either a rotary cutter that has a pinking
blade or in my case, since I don’t have that I am just going to use my pinking shears.
As an option way you can also have a one pair of swimsuit
bra cups if you want add a little extra padding. This diagram is going to tell us what pieces
make up our garment and which ones we need to cut out. So you, if you are only doing view B, you
only need to cut out the pieces that have View B behind it. So we can go ahead and ignore
these ones if we are not doing View A and they also make it really easy down here, it
just tells you View B, you need to cut out pattern pieces four through 15. But it’s
also nice that they break it out and you will see the numbers here correspond with the numbers
that they show on the actual pieces, which is nice because if you are doing two different
sizes for the bra and for the panty, you can see oh for panties, they are going to be pieces
11 through 15. So that way it makes a little bit easier for
you. Sometimes your pattern pieces will have more than one size attached to them, so you
will see something that has a series of lines and then they will have the sizes. So you
just find your size and then you cut out the line that’s above that. Now if it’s just
a single line, then that means it’s for all sizes and if you see symbols like this, these
are notches and they are very important because — there for helping us place pieces together
in a certain way. So you need to either make an indication by
cutting into the notches doing a slit, just make sure that you don’t cut into or pass
the seam allowance or you can do like I did, where I cut a little outward notch. After
you cut out your pattern pieces, then you can look at the layout direction they have.
So this diagram shows you how they suggest you layout your pieces on your fabric. And they suggest it in a particular way because
in this particular example, it’s very important that you place your pieces in a way that you
get the greatest degree of stretch going around your body instead of up and down. If you are
using the Lycra, you will be able to stretch it this way, but you should be able to stretch
it more going up and down with the salvages up at the top and then you have a fold on
one side. Now you will see some of these pieces like
12 and 11 and some of these other ones need to be placed on the fold to know for sure
you are going to look at the actual pattern pieces and it will say on one side place on
fold or put this side on fold or something like that. Now this one, piece number ten,
you will see here there’s a note and they want you to cut out one number 10, but they
want it to be twice the length of the pattern piece. They werenít able to fit it on the side here
next to 14, so they just put it across the top and all you do is just pin it to one side,
you can draw a line around it, then you could take off the pattern piece, you are going
to flip it over to the other side with the ends meeting up in the middle. So you end
up with one long piece that’s double the size of the original pattern. Since this is folded in half, some of these
pieces you’ll end up getting to just by cutting them out once. Now this set up is for the
45 inch with fabric, below it we have the 60 inch width. So this is something you would
follow, if you’re doing the wider fabric like I am. It’s a kind of a similar thing, on this
side, the fabric is folded in half with the salvages on the end and you have some pieces
placed on the fold. So you get one long piece and then a couple of them are just put on
there, so you end up getting two of 5 and two of six. Then they want you to cut off whatever fabric
is leftover and over here shows you the next setup, where you are folding it on the bottom
big enough so you can cut 12 on the fold and then you are folding it again on the top,
so you can cut out piece number 11 on the fold and then get your other pieces as well. Lastly we need to cut out our lining pieces,
so our lining pieces should also be cut out of a Lycra type fabric, so it’s also stretchy
and for this we only need to cut out pieces nine and 13. 13 needs to be placed on a fold,
you see the fabric is folded in half and the nine, we just need two pieces of that. The nice thing about these directions, is
they give you some tips on sewing with Lycra fabric now. Now if you are using an overlock
machine, just using a regular overlock stitch is probably fine. You can just sew how you
normally will, if you are using a sewing machine like I am, then there are a few different
options you can do. If you have a machine that can only do a straight stitch and they
show you an example right here, probably what you are going to have to do is as you are
sewing, you are going to slightly pull the fabric. That way it’s going to have some stretch
once you let go. You don’t want to pull a lot, just a little bit. So they show doing
a regular stitch at your seam allowance and then up at the top, you are going to do another
set of stitches. Probably best if you have a machine that can at least do a zigzag stitch
and they show you a couple of examples here. So this is a narrow, a very narrow zigzag
stitch and then they do a medium one on top and then here is the same thing, but they
have a zigzag stitch which is made up of little stitches. It’s a good idea to at least take
scraps of fabric before you start sewing your garments, so you can experiment on it, stitch
it with a couple of different examples and then stretch the fabric to see if it’s something
you are going to like as we definitely want the bathing suit to have some stretch when
we are sewing with it. Now this one at the top, this is probably
my ideal one to use. My machine calls it an overcast seam and here’s an example of me
just doing it on a scrap. So it looks like a regular stitch, I don’t have to stretch
it as I am sewing, I just sew as normal and then you see that it still has some stretchiness
to it. So for me, this is perfect. Looking through the rest of our directions,
we can see what our seam allowance is going to be. So in this case itís a 5/8ths of an
inch unless the direction state anything other than that. So if they just say, do a seam,
we are always going to assume, it’s 5/8ths of an inch. Now to read the directions, I
am just going to skip this over a little bit. You will see up here, they have the illustration
code. So if it’s dark, that means we are looking
at the right side and this is for reading the pictures that we see right here. So would
be looking at the right side, white is going to be looking at the wrong side of the garment
or the fabric and then there’s the lining, so right side of lining, wrong side of lining. So we are not going to be doing the cover
and I’m actually going to be starting on the other side of the page and this is going to
be swimsuits. So we are going to start up with step one and basically what I’m going
to do, I’m going to read the written directions and then I’m going to demonstrate what you
need to do for that step. Step one is broken up into multiple parts,
so we are just going to take one part at a time and the first section is trim bra strap
close to edge along top panel seam using a rotary cutter with a pinking blade or using
pinking shears. Trim bra top panel along middle panel seam and draw a middle panel along bottom
panel seam in the same manner. This part is very easy, so you are going to take your pieces
that are 4, 5 and 6. And you should have two of each one because
there’s two parts to the bra section. I am just going to show you with one section, but
you are going to do everything twice. So at the bottom of each of these pieces, the bottom
of 4, the bottom of five and the bottom of six, you are going to either use a rotary
cutter with a pinking blade or you are going to use the pinking shears which means, it’s
going to be scissors that have the zigzag pattern. And you’re going to trim off the bottom portion,
so you end up getting a zigzag for design to it and I actually have one already done.
And you’re not trimming off a lot, you are just doing it on the edge, so you end up getting
this design and again you are going to do the same thing, for your five piece and then
for the six piece as well. Next you are going to lap bra strap over bra
top panel having pinked edge along placement line for a strap. The top stitch half inch
from pinked edge using a double needle. If you look at piece five, because we are going
to attach four with five, and on our pattern piece of number five, you are going to see
a line and it says placement line for strap, this is actually three quarters of an inch
from the top of the number five pattern. And You should’ve marked this on your fabric piece
and you can just my chalk marks very faintly here. You are going to have both pieces right
side up and you are going to take the pinked edge of the number four piece, which is the
bra strap and you are going to have it, so it lines up with that placement. And you are
just going to pin them together because then we are going to take them to the machine in
order to do the top stitch. When using a double needle also known as the
twin needle, you are actually going to be sewing with two spools of thread. So the first
one, I am just going to thread like normal, so you start with whatever you do and you
are going to have to look at your machine manual to see if your machine can even do
two spools. My machine comes with another attachment, so I am going to attach another
spool up here. And then I am just going to thread this one,
just like I do with my other one. You just want to be careful that you don’t you get
your threads too tangled, you want to keep them as neat as possible, so I am just carefully
going to go through this one and then we will show the needle next. I was able to purchase
my twin needle from the fabric store and because it has a single base at the top, you just
put it in like you would a regular needle. Now you can see that you have to thread each
individual needle, we have two of them here and then you just have your bobbing as normal.
Now the packaging on mine said, that you need to have a machine that has the functionality
of doing a zigzag stitch, because what they want you to do is, you set it for a zigzag,
but then you put the width of the stitch all the way to zero. So it’s basically doing
a straight stitch. I did both, I did the zigzag and then I just
did a regular straight seam and mine worked perfectly both ways. If your machine cannot
do the double needle and you can only do a single needle, you can go ahead and do that.
I will just two rows of stitches and just make them an eighth of an inch apart. Now
working with Lycra, it can be a little bit challenging, because not only does it stretch,
but also it can be slippery and it could just be frustrating to work with. So here are some tips. If you find that when
you are starting to stitch, and you are starting on the edge and then ends up getting sucked
down into the bobbin area, don’t start on the complete edge moving forward. Now you
can actually go a little bit ahead of it as long as you are still within that 5/8th seam
allowance, it should be fine. So as long as you are starting, just a little away from
the edge, it might help a little bit. Also what I find tends to help is sandwiching
my fabric between tissue paper. So I have tissue paper here on top and then I also have
tissue paper on the bottom. When I finish stitching, I just tear the tissue paper off.
Now in this particular case with the double stitches, it’s definitely easier to take
it off the top, than the bottom because we have the bobbin crisscrossing on the bottom
of this particular stitch. I can’t always get off all the tissue paper, but there is
going to be a lining on the back. So I am not really concerned about it, as
long as you get all the tissue paper off the front, then you should be fine. So I have
my tissue paper underneath where I am stitching and then the one on top, I am making sure
that this bottom edge right here is lining up with the bottom edge of my zigzag in right
here. Because we need to stitch a half inch from this bottom here, so about right here.
So if I pin my tissue paper to my fabric, right on the edge, I am just marking with
a fabric marker, half inch up. So that way I have a guideline to use as I
am sewing and then I just stitch right on that tissue paper and what I find is the tissue
paper really helps it feed evenly. If I don’t use a tissue paper, I tend to see that my
seams or my stitches end up looking a little wavy which drives me nuts and this way, definitely
my stitches come out a lot flatter. To continue with step one, you are next going
to lap bra strap and bra top panel over bra middle panel having pinked edge along placement
line for the top panel and. Top stitch one have inched from pinked edge using a double
needle, then you are going to let bra strap top and middle panel over bra bottom panel
having pinked edge along placement line the middle panel and the top stitch half inch
from pinked edge using a double needle, repeat for other bra. We are just going to repeat, so now we are
taking this piece, so this is the piece that we just stitched four to five and it looks
pretty good. Let me show you, I just want to show you the back real fast. So you can
see a little bit of my tissue paper stuck in there, which you can nitpick and take
out or just not use tissue paper on the back. But like I said, since there is going to be
a lining, I am not too concerned about it. So you are just going to do the same thing,
right side facing up, you are going to take piece number six, right side facing up. You
have the placement line again on the pattern piece, you are going to make sure that the
edge of your pinking cut here is going to line up with that line. And then you are going
to do the double stitch with your twin needle. Then you are going to grab a piece number
seven, so this is the bottom part of the bra and I am just going to scoot this down a little
bit. And you are going to do the same exact thing. This piece also has the placement line,
so this is right side up, right side up, all you are going to do is now you are going to
take this part, line it with the line, do your double stitch, just like we have done
before. And then this section is complete and you can go ahead and do it with the other
bra section, the same exact thing. Step two, pin cup lining to bra, wrong sides
together, baste side and strap edges. So now we are going to be using piece number nine
and this what you should have cut of your line. Of course, you have two, one for each
side. So you are going to take one set and here is my finished piece that we just created
in step one. And I am going to lay it so it’s going to be wrong side facing up. I am going to put this one, so it’s wrong
sides together, so I am looking at the right side of the lining and you are just going
to line everything up. And you may find that the lining doesn’t go completely to the edge
of your main fabric because mine definitely doesn’t. So all I am going to do is I am going
to pin around the perimeter, you don’t have to do this area here. You are just doing here
across the top and then across this other side and then we are going to do a basting
stitch in this area. For the basting stitch we can go ahead and
switch back to a single needle. Now I am using a ballpoint which is great for knits and my
size is 10/70 and I am just going to go ahead, starting basting my pieces. Now with basting
you are going to use the largest stitch on your machine and you don’t have to worry
about back stitching, you are just going to baste this areas that you have done before. And it doesn’t really matter if you do it
at the 5/8ths or you do it at the half inch, this is just a temporary stitch to hold the
pieces together. You can see, I am going to go ahead and use my tissue paper trick. It
just really helps it run a lot smoother and itís a little bit more manageable at least
for me. You can do whatever system works for you. Again you don’t have to do any back
stitches, make sure you have the largest stitch and go ahead and baste. Step three, for each side, cut four pieces
of 3/8ths inch wide swimmer elastic in the following ways and then depending on what
size you are going to do, you are going to cut four pieces with the inches that give
you, so I am doing a small. So I am going to do four, 13.5 inches in length, pin one
piece of elastic to wrong side of bra and each side with one end of elastic at bottom
edge. And the other end, at the strap edge having
the edge of elastic even with the edge of the fabric, stitch on top of the elastic,
stretching elastic evenly to fit. See elastic and sewing procedures, turn under elastic
to wrong side to form hem and top stitch using a double needle stretching elastic to fit.
Repeat for other bra. So you’re taking each of your elastic pieces, you’re going to line
it up at the top of your strap piece and you are going to line up with the right edge on
the side here. And you are just going to pin all the way
down, now it’s kind of curvy at one point. So you may have to stretch it a little bit
to go around the curve and then pin to the end here. And you can say I have already done
it on this side. Then we are going to take it to our machine, and your going to do a
zigzag stitch all along the top of the elastic. I am going to go ahead and stitch my zigzag
stitch right in the middle of my elastic. Now itís a little tough to get started, you
just got to kind of help it a little bit to get started. Now you can either do a three
step zigzag which is what I am doing, so itís three individual stitches that make up each
zig or zag or you can do a wide regular zigzag. Next what you are going to do is this is the
part that we just sewed our elastic on. I have the piece right side facing up and all
I am going to do is take the elastic portion of it and I am going to turn it under. So then I am feeling the edge of the elastic
up here at the fold. So if we turn it this way, you can see the elastic is completely
folded over and then you are going to use your double needle and you are going to top
stitch all along the side that has the elastic. And you can see I have already done it on
this side. Step four, pin strap extension to fabric side of bra at strap seam matching
notches and having fold line at strap at neckline of bra. Stitch strap seam ending at fold line, press
seam allowances towards strap extension, fold strap extension along fold line, right sides
together and stitch outer edge and turn straps right side out on outside hands, so opening
to strap seam, repeat for other bra. So it seems like there is a lot, we are just going
to take one part at a time. First you are going to need your bra piece and then you
are going to need piece number eight. Again there’s two of them, because you need
one for each size. Let me just point out on this one, you will notice that there will
be a fold line, right in the middle and I just started my fold line, right here. So
I would know where it is at the top. You are going to have this right side up, this part,
this is right side down. But this part at the top is going to line up with the notches
that are up here. So I am just going to scoot this down, lay this on top of here. You are
matching up the raw edge with a raw edge. Now this side of the strap is going to line
up right with your fold line here and then your notches should match up. So you see I
am only matching up this one, not this one because this is eventually going to be folded
over. So all I am going to do is pin and then we are going to stitch a 5/8ths seam allowance,
just for the part of our strap right here. When doing your seam, this is where you can
decide on whether or not you want to do a zigzag stitch or an overcast stitch, you are
just going to make sure that you go ahead and do a backstitch. And once you get to this
point, you can go ahead and stop stitching. Next you are going to take the extension strap
and you are going to pull it up away, from the rest of the bra and you will see that
you have your seam allowance naturally folding over. Now we are looking at the wrong side
here, but this is the right side right here. Next what you are going to do is you are going
to take this extension piece, you are going to fold it in half, so the right sides are
together. So you are folding right on that fold line again. You are going to pin and
stitch your 5/8ths seam allowance, starting here at the base of where you strap meets
your bra, and you are going to stitch up here and then across here, again at the 5/8ths
mark. I then trim my seams and I am going to take
this part and I am going to flip it right side out. So then all my seam allowance in
the top of this is going to be tucked in the inside of the extension of the strap extension.
And then we are going to slip stitch this bottom portion fold closed, but we will get
a little bit closer. So we can show you how to do that. You are going to do the slip stitch by hand,
so you need to get some matching thread and a hand needle. I am actually using a contrasting
thread, so it will be a little bit easier for you to see. And you can see this is the
strap extension here and here is the strap, the top of the strap from the bra section.
I am just going to grab a little bit right along the fold line here and try to tuck in
my knot, so it’s hidden. So now I’m going to grab a little bit of the
top of the bra strap
and then a little bit back of the fold of the extension and I am just going to go back
and forth between the two sides and if you use a matching thread, you are not going to
see that all, but you could just barely see my own. So I am going to grab some of the
top of the strap, then the extension strap and I am just going to zigzag back and forth
till this whole thing is stitched. Step five, the bra cups are optional, try
on the suit, insert cups and pin in place. Depending on the type of cups used, pin or
attach to seam allowances or aligning with hand stitches, pin lining to bra bottom edge
and overcast edges together. Repeat for other bra. So if you want to you can use a bra cup
and there are different types. So itís just a type that I happen to have and you’re just
going to place it in between your lining and the main fabric on the outside. But you definitely want to at least lay this
on your bust, so you can kind of place where you want the cup to be. And then you can pin
it into place. Now to hand sew, I usually like to flatten it out, so then I can make
sure that I don’t have any wrinkles and everything is lined flat. And then I just tack around
the edges and I am just attaching it to the lining and the bra cup together. If yours is big enough you can actually just
stitch it to the seam allowance, so then itís not going to be as noticeable. You can see
the other one I’ve done here. You can definitely see all my stitches all the way around, but
if you donít want any cups, you also have the option of not putting any cups at all. The second part of the step is you’re going
to actually pin this bottom edge right here because this is now open. So you are going
to do this after you put in the bra cups, if thatís what you want to do and you’re
going to do an overcast stitch all along this bottom edge. You are doing it right close
to the edge. Step six to make casing for tie a bottom edge,
fold three quarters of an inch to line inside and stitch close to edge. Repeat for other
bra. So all you’re doing is you are taking this bottom edge and you are folding it up,
so itís three quarters of an inch. Now the problem is, is this bottom portion is wider
than what you are folding up to, so what you will find, it’s not going to fit. You’re trying to fold it up and then all of
a sudden, you are get puckers increases. So for me what I did in order to fix this problem
as I did two rows of basting stitches, that you can see right here, I did the 5/8ths and
the one at the 3/8ths mark and I am not doing any back stitching. So these are my gathering
stitching and then on one side, I am just going to pull the top threads and it’s going
to start gathering the fabric. And I am not trying to really create any big
wrinkles or anything, I am just trying to ease it in. So it’s going to fit a little
bit better and itís going to be a little bit more evenly distributed instead of all
bunched up in one section. So I just kind of pull it and then I just kind of distribute
it, so it meets in the middle and everything. And then you’re going to fold it up and go
ahead and do your stitch right on the edge, so your zigzag stitch, your overcast stitch.
I have already did it on my other ones and let me bring that one in. So you can see my
stitches right down here and it is all stitched up, so now I have a casing, you can see where
I am putting my fingers right now, so I can put my tie through it. Step seven, fold bra tie in half length wise,
right sides together and stitch using a 3/8ths inch seam allowance, trim close to stitching,
turn right sides out using a loop turner or follow these procedures. Cut a small opening
on folded edge, a half inch from one end. Hook bobby pins through the opening and insert
into strap, guide bobby pin through strap to other end, trim end, cut opening. So you are going to take your piece number
ten and you should only have one, which is double the size of the pattern piece because
you should have placed it on the fold or did the layout directions which was for the 45
inch width fabric. You have it right side facing up, all you are going to do is fold it in
half. Let me grab my pins here and you are going to do it for the whole length of the
tie. And then you’re going to stitch 3/8ths of
an inch from the raw edge, so instead of doing your 5/8ths seam allowance, you are only doing
a 3/8ths seam allowance. After I stitch my seam allowance, I am going to go ahead and
trim off the extra seam allowance there. And then you are going to use either a loop turner
or if you don’t have a loop turner, you can use their idea which is to use a bobby pin
for turning the whole tie right side out. So all I did is just snip on the folded side
of the tie half inch from the edge and I am cutting almost to the bottom here. And careful
not to cut into my stitches, then you’re going to stick the bobby pin on the opening, both
sides are going in to the tie and then you’re just going to pull it through, so I am holding
my bobby pin with one hand. And then gathering it with my other hand and
then I am going to pull. Once you finish turning the whole thing right side out, what you can
do is go ahead and cut off that end, that half inch that you cut into, so we have a
nice, a nice end. Step eight, for bra tie, cut one piece of 3/8ths of an inch, wide
swimwear elastic of the following length. And they give you a chart and you are taking
your 3/8ths inch elastic and you are cutting whatever they say for your size, so for me
the small, I am doing 55 inches. Insert elastic into tie having ends even, top stitch allowance
center of tie using a double needle, insert tie into bra casings, tie knots at end of
ties. So now you’re taking your tie and it’s all
flipped out right side out now and you are going to sticking your 3/8ths inch elastic
into the middle of your tie and you can see at the end, I just stuck a little safety pin,
so it’s a little bit easier for me to get through it. And all I am going to do is just the — kind
of the same thing where I’m gathering the fabric on to my safety pin and then I am pulling
the fabric on the other end with my hand. So it just makes it a little bit easier, so
this is going to go all the way through, so that the ends of the elastic are even with
the ends of the tie. And once you finish, you are again going to
use your double needle and you are going to do that double top stitch right down the middle
of the tie, so it’s nice and flat and then after that’s done, we will show you what
to do next in order to finish up the bra side of the bikini. Lastly you are going to take your tie and
you are going to put it through your casing at the bottom of the bra section. And I actually
put a safety pin at the end of this as well. So it will be a lot easier for me to get it
through the casing and once you have it through at the end of each tie, you are going to tie
a knot. So that way itís not going to come accidentally through the casing again. And then the top of your bikini is done. Step
seven, pin front to back right sides together at crotch seam matching centers. Pin right
side of front lining to wrong side of back and stitch through all layers. Fold lining
toward front and pin raw edges together at waist and leg openings, stitch together close
to waist sides and leg openings using a narrow zigzag stitch. We are going to be working on the panties
now of our bikini. And for this we are going to be working with piece 12 and 11. Both of
these pieces should have been cut on the fold, so when you open it up, you have one as twice
the size. The first part is very easy and there are several parts to this, so we are
just going to do one part at a time, so the first part of what you are going to do is
you are going to take each of these, the right side facing up. And I’m going to lay them on top of each other,
so this section down here is going to meet. Now you will notice that this piece kind of
curves outward and this piece curves inward. I am just going to force this bottom piece
to kind of curve outward like this top piece. And it’s a little and this one seems a little
bit smaller, so what I would do is I would pin the ends and then stretch the bottom in
order for it to fit this section. Then you are going to do your 5/8ths seam allowance.
Next you are going to flip your panties over, so you are looking at the wrong side of the
back. And you are going to grab piece number 13 and this is the front lining and so you
had one of these. And you are going to lay it, so it goes right side of lining to wrong
side of back. And you going to do the same thing where you
are pinning this bottom section here and then doing a 5/8ths seam allowance. After creating
the seam, I always like to trim it, then you are going to be bringing the wrong side of
the lining to the wrong side of the front. So I am just going to flip this over. So everything
is going to be lining up and you are going to be matching your notches area. Now the lining should be slightly smaller
than your main fabric which is fine. Go ahead and pin from here to here and you are going
to go ahead and stitch right along the edge using a narrow zigzag stitch. Step eight,
stitch front to back right sides together at side seams. So all you are doing basically
your panties are wrong side out and the right side of the front goes to the right side of
the back again. And you are going to attach them here at the
side seam. Now the back is going to be a little shorter than the front, but thatís fine.
I am making sure that it matches up on top. If the front extends past the back a little
bit and that should be fine and you are going to sew your 5/8ths seam allowance on this
side and so the same thing on this side as well. Step nine, trim ruffle close to edge along
bottom edge using a rotary cutter with the pinking blade or using pinking shears. Stitch
ruffle right sides together at side seam, pin wrong side of ruffle to right side of
waist with raw edges even matching right side seams and fold on ruffle to left side seam.
Baste ruffle to waist edge, stretching waist edge to fit ruffle. So we are going to be
working on the ruffle that’s going to be at the top of the panty. And you are going to need piece 14, again
this is another one that’s cut on the fold. So you can only see half of it, right now.
The first thing you need to do is one side needs to have the pinking design. So either
use a rotor cutter with a pinking blade or I use my pinking shears and just trimmed off
the bottom. Again you are just doing it on the edge, so you are not cutting off too much. Then you are going to fold the piece in half
with right sides together, so the right side is facing up and fold it in half. Bring these
raw edges together down here and you can go ahead and stitch your 5/8ths seam allowance.
Next we are going to baste our ruffle to the top of our bikini bottom here. So the flat
side, this raw edge is going to line up with this raw edge and you are going to pin all
the way around the whole thing. Now our seam that we have in our ruffle here,
this seam is going to line up with the right side seam of the panty and this left side
seam in the panty is going to line up with this folded in half exactly. So I just put
a little mark and this mark is going, I am just going to line it up with this. So I am
going to open up, now this is right side out, this is right side out. And slip this through here and I am just going
to start with side seam on this side and then I am going to match up the mark I made here
with the side seam on the other side. And you may have to stretch one of the pieces
in order to get it to fit. You are going to pin all the way around the whole thing and
then you are going to baste it. Now your seam allowance have been basted, it doesn’t really
matter, because it’s just to hold these two pieces together, so we can do the next step. Step ten, stitch waist binding, right sides
together at side seam and press seam allowance open. Divide binding and waist into fours and
mark. We are going to be dealing with piece number 15 now. Again this is one cut on the
fold, and I have it right side facing up. You are going to do just the same thing we
did with ruffle. You are going to bring it together at the raw edge, the short raw edge
here. So itís folded in half, right sides again
are together. And down here, you can go ahead and stitch your 5/8ths seam allowance and
in this particular case, you are going to go ahead and press your seam allowances open.
Flip your binding right side out and then you are going to divide it in fours. And I
am actually going to do this with straight pins. So what I am doing is I am marking my
seam, my seam line right here with a pin. Then I am going to fold it in half from this
point and then I am going to put a pin at that halfway point. And then I am going to
divide each of these sections now in half as well and mark it with a straight pin. It’s
now going to take this point, point to point, divide it in half and I am not, don’t pull
it, just gently mark it in half, because we want it to be accurate. And then I am going to do the same thing on
the other side, so you should end up having four marks, total. So now I am going to do
this side and the halfway point, this is going to help us evenly put on our binding to the
top of our bikini bottom. All right, so once you have that all marked up, you are then
going to do the same thing with the top of the panty. So you can see my pins are already
in here and you are just going to do the same exact thing. So you end up with four pins at the top of
this as well. Step 11, pin binding to waist, right sides together, matching seam on binding
to right side seam and the remaining marks. Stitch 3/8ths of an inch from edge using a
narrow zigzag stitch stretching binding if necessary to fit waist. The binding is now going to
go on the top half above the ruffle here at the panty. You are going to make sure that
your binding is wrong side out, but this is still right side out and just like we did
with the ruffle, you are going to have the binding go over it. And then the top of the bathing suit goes
in between. So my side seam here, basically you are just going to be matching your pins.
My side seam and my binding is going to match the right side seam of the panty. So I can
just use more and pin these together and then I would do the other half as well. So I would
like to do half and then half that one. So now I am going to match up these pins and
you are just going to go all the way around, just like you did with the ruffle. Now in
this particular case, you are going to be sewing a 3/8ths inch seam allowance, while
using a narrow zigzag. Now I am going to match up these ones and you may have to stretch
your binding a little bit in order to get it to fit, which is fine. As long as you are not stretching it too much
and then I am going to do the one in the back as well. And then I would just add in pins
in between just to kind of make sure that everything, the raw edges are lined up and
then you are again going to stitch that 3/8ths narrow zigzag all the way around the whole
piece. Step 12, cut pieces of 3/8ths of an inch wide
swimwear elastic in the following lengths. For the waist, you are going to cut one depending
on your size, thatís going to determine the length and then for the leg, you need to cut
two, again it depends on your size. Label elastic pieces, overlap ends of each piece
of elastic, 3/8ths of an inch and stitch together. So you are going to take each of your pieces
of elastic and you are going to bring the ends together. And make sure itís not twisted and you are
going to overlap the ends 3/8ths of an inch and then go ahead and stitch across, I would
stitch across a couple of times, because I really want to make sure that it’s not going
to come apart and don’t forget to label each pairs. You know which one is for the leg and
then which one is for the waist. Step 13, divide waist elastic and waist into
fours with pins, pin elastic to wrong side of waist matching marks and edge of elastic,
even with edge of waist. Stitch on elastic, stretching elastic if necessary to fit, see
elastic in sewing procedures. You are going to take your waist elastic and you are going
to divide it into fours and mark it with pins, like you see I have done here and do the same
thing with the top of your waist. So my bikini bottom is still right side out,
this is the binding that we just sewed on and what you are going to do is match up the
forths again. So I am matching pins to pins and you are going to pin it all the way around,
making sure that the top of the elastic meets up with the top of the raw edge of the panties.
And between the pins, you can go ahead and do more pins because you may have to stretch
the elastic in order for it to fit, like I am stretching right now in order to get to
the next pin. So you may have to just put in a bunch of
pins in order to hold it. Once everything is pinned, you are then going to do your zigzag
stitch right in the middle of that elastic like we did with our bikini top and that’s
going to secure the elastic to the top of our bikini bottom. Continue in on with the
step, forward binding over elastic to wrong side, top stitch on binding close to seam
using a medium zigzag with a medium to slightly shorter stitch length or use a double needle. Trim excess binding close to stitches. So
all you are going to do now is take your binding and you are going to fold it over the elastic.
So now the elastic is going to be covered and go ahead and pin this like this all the
way around. So it’s going to have a nice finished edge, then you can go ahead and top
stitch on the right side of the bikini bottom close to the seam. We have our seam right here, so probably about
right here, you can either do the double needle or you can do a medium zigzag stitch. Once
you finish with that, you are going to turn it into the inside of the bikini bottom and
you are going to see your stitches and you can just trim off the excess fabric that’s
hanging over. Step 14, place leg elastic to wrong side of
leg opening with edge of elastic even with edge of fabric. Pin elastic without stretching
to front leg opening between side seam and notch. Stitch on top of elastic, stretching
elastic to fit back leg opening and see elastic in sewing procedures, turn under elastic to
wrong side to form a hem and top stitch using a double needle stretching the elastic to
fit. This is our last step and all we have to do
is attach our last two remaining pieces of elastic for the leg openings on both sides.
Now all you are going to do is just like we did for the top part, you are going to pin
your elastic to the edge, the raw edge of the bikini bottom. Now between your side seam
and the single notch you are not going to stretch the elastic. You are just going to
lay it flat. From the notch back up to the side seam, so
the back portion of the leg, you can go ahead and stretch the elastic. So from here to here,
itís probably going to gather your fabric, but from the notch upto the side seam, it
should lie flat. So I am just going to go ahead, pin this and after itís pinned, you
can go ahead and do your zigzag stitch, right in the middle of that elastic. Lastly you are going to take the elastic and
you are going to fold it over, so itís still on the inside of the garment. Now on the right
side, you can go ahead and top stitch using your double needle, on the side that has the
gathering, you are going to have to again stretch it, because you wanted to be smooth
and flat as you are sewing over it. I would just take it in sections, so it’s a little
bit easier manage. After you finish the top stitch go ahead and give a quick look at your
bathing suit to see if there are any basting stitches that could be removed. This has been Kwik Sew 4003, we hope you enjoy
your new bathing suit and some summer time fun. Make sure to check out our other videos and
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