Bento Box Quilt, Part 2, Knitting Tutorial & Free Pattern

This video is the knitting tutorial for my
new Bento Box quilt pattern, knitted quilt, of course. We can go ahead and cut away to a picture
of the all quilt. If you haven’t yet watched the intro video,
that’s a separate video. And if you click the little “i” in the upper
right-hand corner, I’ll give you a link to that video. It’s important. We talk about the construction, and the yarn,
and lots of other stuff. And it’s a separate video. So we can dive right in with the knitting
in this video. If you’d like to get your free pattern to
follow along, just click the little “i” in the upper right-hand corner. That will take you to my website where you
can download the free pattern and the free coloring page. You will also find a link to the KPC website
and their Gossyp Chunky Organic Cotton Yarn. That’s the yarn that I used in this blanket. They have over 40 different colors available,
and you’ll have a lot of fun putting those together and coloring your page, hopefully. I did. And I wanna mention, I mentioned in the intro,
but when you first look at the website for the yarn, the yarn is going to look ridiculously
expensive unless you live in Hong Kong. It’s because the default currency on the website
is Hong Kong dollars. You can click the top of the page and change
the currency to your home country, and you can see how much the yarn actually is. It’s a great value on organic cotton, and
KPC has quick shipping. Also, on my website, in the pattern, you’ll
see the yarn amounts, and the needles, and everything else you need. But mostly I encourage you to watch the intro
video so that you have all the information about how this whole thing goes together. And next up, we are going to get started with
row one of the first mitered square, and that’s coming up. We are ready to get started with the knitting. And if you watched the intro video, you know
that these are the quilt blocks that we’re working on. It’s about 13 by 13. Make 16 of these in 2 different color combinations,
and that’s what we’re going to get started with here. And I want to say, as far as the gauge swatch
goes, you can just start working row one and finish the entire first section up to the
color change and measure. And your little square should be four and
half by four and half inches. And if that’s what you’re getting, then your
gauge is on. If your square is larger than four and a half
by four and half, you want to go down a needle size. If it’s smaller, you want to go up a needle
size. Although exact gauge isn’t that important,
but if you want the yarn amounts to be the same and if you want your blanket to end up
being a good throw size, 60 by 60, then you wanna get as close to gauge as possible. But let’s go ahead and get started with row
one. Okay, I’m gonna start with pink yarn here
and cast on two stitches. I’m using the long tail cast on, and I can
give you a link to my video on that. You can use a needle cast on. You can use any cast on you like, really. First thing, row one, I’m going to knit those
two stitches. Row two, I’m going to KFB, and that’s a knit
front back increase. First thing I do is knit this stitch normally,
but I don’t pull the old stitch off the left needle. Instead, I swing the tip of my needle around
and put it into the back loop of that stitch, wrap it, pull it through, pull the old stitch
off the needle. So I’ve made two stitches out of what was
once one. And at this point, I wanna put a marker, a
little ring marker on the right needle, and knit the last stitch. Okay, now this row, I’m going to KFB the first
stitch. So I knit it normally. Swing the needle around to the back loop of
that stitch, wrap it, and pull it through and the old stitch off. Slip the stitch marker from the left needle
to the right, and knit the last the last two stitches. I’m not sure what row we’re on anymore, but
I am following the pattern. I’ll knit the first stitch, KFB the second
stitch, slip the marker, and knit to end. We’re gonna start to see a pattern here in
just a minute. Knit the first stitch, KFB the second stitch,
slip the marker, and knit to end. Okay, this is where we’re gonna start to see
the pattern coming out, because every row in this blanket for all the mitered squares
is essentially the same. You’re going to knit up to one stitch before
the marker, KFB, slip the marker, knit to end. Every row’s the same, every single row. So I knit up to one stitch before the marker,
KFB that stitch, slip the marker, knit to end. Knit up to one stitch before the marker, KFB,
slip the marker, knit to end. Okay, now we’re gonna break down a few more
things. KFB to one stitch before the marker. Now, let’s talk about the KFB. Because this is cotton yarn, it doesn’t have
a lot of give to it, and there’s a kind of decent chance that you’ll end up with some
tension issues on your KFB. So this is how we’re going to avoid that. Put your needle in, wrap the stitch and pull
it through, swing the tip of your needle around and put it in the back loop. And right here, tag. Tag your yarn, and you’ll see the first half
of that stitch tightens up kind of a lot. Yeah, you’ll find there is a lot of slack
on that stitch. And then complete the KFB. Don’t worry, I’ll show you that again. And that tag will become automatic. I kind of do it on all my KFBs, not just cotton,
but it ends up being kind of more important with cotton yarn. Put the needle in the back, tag. It just gives you a nicer increase line. Okay, knit up to one stitch before the marker,
KFB, slip marker, and knit to end. Can we finish this row, because there’s something
else I wanna show you? Something that’s nice about this project is
you work all these mitered squares separately. So even though you’re working on this whole
blanket, you don’t have a blanket size project to carry around with you. You just tab this little mitered square, so
it’s a blanket, but it’s actually a portable project. So you look at what we have here so far with
our knitting. And I know if I don’t explain this, people
are gonna ask me, “Mine doesn’t look like a square. What’s up with this?” And it doesn’t. It looks like a…I don’t know if that’s…not
even…there’s no name for that shape. But watch this. If I let the needles shape the piece the way
that the knitting really wants to go, you’ll see it’s a perfect square. So you are knitting a square even if it looks
like a little bunched up tear drop or something on the needles. Okay, let me work one more row before we move
on to the next thing. And this is all really clear in the pattern
about when the color changes happen. I’m going to do a little abbreviated version
here, though. You’ll keep working that same increase row
until you have 28 stitches total, and that’s how big your swatch is. It’s 14 stitches on each side of the marker,
28 stitches total. And then you’ll change color. And I wanna show you how we’re gonna do the
color change. This is how I did the color change, because
people have different ways of doing this. This is my way of doing it so that it’s not
going to come unraveled in the machine washing drying process. So I’m ready to change color. I’ve broken the yarn. I put my needle in. I grab the new color and kind of flap it over
like this, leaving myself about a six-inch tail. Take that loop, and put it on the back needle,
and pull it through, and then just knit a few stitches, three or four, and then turn
your work over to the back of the work. You have the two ends here. Go ahead and tie those two ends in a double
knot. And the reason we do it now instead of when
we finish this row is because this new stitch is still on the needle and not on the cord. We want that needle to keep that stitch that
size so it isn’t bunched up on the edges. And once you have the new color started, you
just keep working. You try to keep working, and there we go,
the same row that you’ve been working this whole time. And you’ll see the mitered squares grow pretty
quickly. I’ve already got that much going. Now, let me see. Next, I wanna talk about the ends. And this isn’t a smaller mitered square than
it’s actually in the blanket. In the blanket, we have three colors, and
this is just two, and I made it this way so that it’d be smaller and fit on camera. But let’s talk about these ends. Okay, I am really wrenching on this knot. It is cotton. You can’t break the yarn. Well, maybe somebody out there can break the
yarn. I can’t break the yarn. And this is how I’m going to handle the ends. This is how I always handle ends with cotton
yarn. First, I’m going to get the end away from
the edge of the work, and I’m going to do it just like normal weaving in of a garter
stitch. But, really, all you have to do is get it
away from the edge of the work. The reason we don’t want to mess with the
edge of the work is because we’re going to be seaming. We want the seam to not be interrupted with
knots. And then I’m going to separate the plies about
half and half. And I threaded half of those plies onto my
tapestry needle. I’m just going to go under the closest loop. So my two ends are coming out of two different
places, and now I tie a knot softly. I tie a knot a little harder, and I tie a
third knot, and I wrench on it. And once you do that, you can cut it very
short. And that’s not going anywhere. We’ll do this one more time. I’m going to get this and away from the edge. You know, when you’re weaving in cotton end
or wool ends, the whole point is just to weave it in, and then eventually the wall kind of
sticks to itself, and then that’s how it secures the end. But cotton doesn’t stick to itself, so we
have to take these extra steps. Separate the plies half and half, thread half
the plies on a tapestry needle, and just go on to the nearest loop, and then tie a knot
gently, tie a knot with a little more force, tie a knot with all your might. Okay, and cut it shorter. I actually left a little link on this one. It’s not necessary. Okay, let me check my list here really quickly. Nope, I’ve gone over everything, everything
I need to cover in this one. Next up, we’re going to talk about seaming,
and the borders, and a few other things in the next segment. Once you get all of your mitered squares finished,
we need to seam things up and add the border. And if you were smart, you were weaving the
ends as you go so that you don’t have a million of them to weave in when you get to the end
of the blanket, like I did. But not a problem, I don’t mind weaving in
ends. So, first, I wanna talk about how the seams
all come together, and then we’re actually going to go through seaming and adding the
borders. So let’s go and take a look. Okay, we’re back to these little cutouts,
because this is how I recommend seaming. Okay, I recommend seaming in strips like this. Let me see if I can do this. Seaming all the strips…oh, wow, this is
more confusing than I thought it was going to be. No, it’s not. Okay, I can put it all together, but leaving
that space was making me confused. I recommend seaming it in strips like this
to create these strips and then seaming the strips together. These are only two of the strips. You will have four. What I did is I seamed the strips, and then
I actually added the border to the top and bottom before seaming them all together, just
so that I had…it was already really hot in Texas when I knitted this blanket. It cooled off a little since, but I didn’t
want to have all the blanket on my lap all the time. So I seamed all the strips, added the border
here, added the border here, and then, you know, seamed all of these together and added
the last two borders. I’ll explain that again in the pattern if
that’s confusing at all And so, first, we’re gonna talk about seaming
the side-by-side seams when you’re seaming them into the strips. And, again, these are not whole quilt blocks. These are a little abbreviated versions of
the quilt blocks so they fit well on screen. And what we’re going to do is just the mattress
stitch. Mattress stitch for garter stitch. And I actually like to start down here. It is easier to start down here, not at the
beginning of the mitered corner, but at the other end. And the whole thing just comes together really
easily. I think you’ll find the seaming goes pretty
quickly. So the first thing I’m going to do is attach
the yarn at one corner by going through the same hole twice and then coming up through
the edge over here. Okay, and then what we’re going to do is the
mattress stitch. But because it’s garter stitch, we’re not
really looking for ladders. You have the very edge stitch, and then we’re
going to look at purl bumps one more column in. And you’re always going to grab something
that is a purl bump from the top and something that’s kind of hidden and underneath. That’s what we’re grabbing. So we have a purl bump from the top and something
that’s kind of hidden and underneath. You see there’s a V, and there’s a bar kind
of in that V. That’s what we’re grabbing. Really, if you’re going under the same length
of fabric on each side each time, it will be successful. I can’t see what I just did. I go back into the hole that I came out of
and kind of grab the two ladders, the one purl bump on top and the one underneath. Jump over the other side, go into the hole
I came out of. I’ve got a purl bump on top and a purl bump
underneath. And you just keep going in the same hole you
came out of, grabbing the same thing back and forth. And it ends up going quickly, because we’re
working with, you know, big, chunky stitches here. And you always know you’re on track because
the big chunky stitches show your garter stitch ridges lining up beautifully. Okay, you see how beautiful that is? So you seam all of your pieces, all of your
mitered squares up into strips. And then the next thing
you’ll be seaming is cast on rows to bind off rows, right? Let me figure out how to set this up so it’s
not as visually confusing. Okay, once you seam the strips, when you start
seaming the strips together, you’re going to be seaming bind off rows to bind off rows,
not cast on rows to bind off, bind off to bind off. And so I wanna show you how to do that as
well. I’m going to attach the yarn to the corner
here by going through twice and attach it to the other piece by going through once the
very edge. Now, what we’re looking for here is a bit
different. We’re looking for Vs just under the bind off
row. So we have these Vs going this way. And the first one you’ll see a V. Go under
both legs of that that V. Jump over the other side. The first V of the bind off row, there’s a
hidden little V under there, go under both legs of that. And we’re doing the exact same thing we were
doing before. A mattress stitch is kind of always the same. It’s just based on what you’re picking up
from each side. Go into the hole you came out of. Go under both legs of the V. Go into the same
hole you came out of. Go under both legs of the V. Oops, I’m having
a hard time seeing where I came out last time. There we are. Sometimes if you loosen it up, you can more
easily see where you came out last time. And, again, this seaming goes really quickly,
because we have big, happy, puffy stitches. You can tighten it up and loosen up as well
to get it so that it matches. If it’s too scrunchy, you can just pull on
it to loosen it up, like I just did. So you’ll seam in strips, and then you’ll
seam the bind off to the bind off when you’re seaming the strips together. And then the last thing you’ll do is adding
the border, well, depending on…if you did it just like I did, then you’ll do some seaming
and adding…oh, where is my piece to add the border? Here we go. This is the piece that I ended up to test
out machine washing and drawing. You’ll see no color bleeding. It came out beautifully. This yarn is great. So, to add the border, we’re going to pick
up and knit across the bind off row. And if you’ve done this before, it’s not a
problem, it’s just like anything else, picking up and knitting in any other bind off row,
but I’m going to demonstrate it. I just put my needle in under both legs of
the V, take my border yarn, and just like when I was changing colors, fold it over,
and wrap that loop on the back needle, and pull it through. And I’m going to do this across the row, and
you’ll pick up…you’re going to every single bind off stitched this way. [00:22:51]
[Silence] [00:23:11] See, pretty easy. If you bind off this tight, I recommend binding
off with a larger needle, and that’s all on the pattern. But if you bind off this tight, you’ll have
a little more difficulty getting your needle in there. I recommend using a fairly sharp needle to
make it easier. So you’ll pick up the stitches all the way
across. Pick up and knit all the way across on one
side and then purl back and then work the same increases that we did, the KFB. We’re going to do the same KFB in the border
so that the line of the mitered square goes right up into the border with no disruption. And I’ll show you what I mean, because, of
course, I have another piece knit up. Okay, this one’s kind of messy here. So I have my border knit. Of course, this is a small piece. It’s not the whole blanket, just enough for
me to show you on camera. I did these increases along these edges, and
it follows the same line as the mitered squares, and all I need to do is seam this up. You may notice that it’s hard to keep a really
beautiful edge on the KFB edge of the border. But it’s so not a problem, because we’re just
going to seam it up. And you can use kind of any seam for this
if you wanna whip stitch it. It’s such a short little thing. And I’m using the end that was left here from
the bind off. I’m gonna connect it to the other side. And I’m doing kind of a form of the Bickford
seam. I’m not sure I wanna hold this. I’m going to go under two purl bumps on one
side, jump over, go over two purl bumps on this side. And unlike mattress stitch, I’m not going
to go back into the same hole. I’m actually going to skip to edge stitches
and go into two edge stitches, and then skip two edge stitches and go under two stitches. So it’s kind of like [inaudible 00:25:21]. It makes that sound. And then when you tighten it up, you know,
it looks good, and it matches up with the rest of it. I didn’t leave myself an especially long tail
to do this seam, but I’m just stubborn enough to make it work. Okay, and then you’ll do that just four times
these little short edges and then weave in your end the way that we’ve been weaving them
in this whole time. We did it. Those are all the techniques used in this
blanket. Really, you know, I went through a lot of
different stuff here, but you’re going to spend 95% of the time working on mitered squares,
on little mitered squares, you know, 16 of them. Many thanks to KPC for sponsoring this video
and letting us use their Gossyp Chunky Organic Cotton Yarn. I really had a nice time working with this
yarn, and it did wash up so beautifully, and I love my blanket now that it’s finished. Be sure to click through to my website for
everything you need to get started on this project for your own, and good luck.