August Makes and September Plans- Contemporary, Historical, and Home Sewing


Hi everybody and welcome to my August
makes and September plans. Well I can’t believe that it’s September already, it
seems like August just flew by and if you remember from my August plans video I
had quite a lot of plans that I knew was overly ambitious and at first when I was
looking at all of my makes for this month I was a little disappointed and
thought that I didn’t really get that much done. So the reason that it felt
like I didn’t get that much done at first this month is that I pretty much
exclusively worked on one project and that project is what you can see behind
me, my fitted English down that I’ve been working on this down I’ve been making
for the Carolina Renaissance Festival which starts at the end of this month on
September 30th. When I think back to this time last year and my first costume
that I made, my French Gown, I remember going to the dress rehearsal which
happens the weekend before festival starts and my costume was largely held
together by safety pins, I still had a ton of work to do. When I look at this
now I have something that’s completely wearable,
it’s basically finished, I could stop right now if I wanted to, I just always
want to add a little more detailing to it. So I’m ecstatic to be finished a
month early I’ve certainly been working on this for the better part of a year so
I’m very very happy to be completed with it. The one thing that I worked on this
month that wasn’t related to the Renaissance Festival was finishing up a
home sewing embroidery that I had showed in my last makes video and that one I had
showed you the hoop that my dog had chewed up but I had the floral wreath
done and I had mentioned that I wanted to embroider with Game of Thrones quote
here it is all finished I re-hooped it, trimmed off the back, and I embroiderd on
it “I drink and I sew things”. I didn’t get the full quote in there because I realized
I didn’t have the room for it. This really started out as a practice piece
so I love how it turned out I definitely want to do more Game of
Thrones quotes and more sewing related hoops maybe to hang up somewhere in my crafting room.
I did finish one Renaissance Festival related item that was not related to my
English Gown costume and that was just this cute little beaded collar that I made
for my dog. It has a rainbow of beads on it on a white velvet collar
I put elastic in it so that it goes around her neck and it won’t accidentally
choke her anything and she wore this in the Charlotte Pride Festival that we
marched in a couple weekends ago. A lot of fun and she had a great time she
loves seeing all the people at parades. I love making these little details for her
to make her look all fancied up. As far as my English Gown goes this is where I
had the bulk of the sewing that I finished this month happen and I’m so
happy to see it finally coming all together. So the first thing that I got
done this month was actually to finish he undergown for this dress. I finished
this undergown back in like April or something and I had just hemmed it but I
had never put the gard on the bottom and so finally I completed it months and
month later, I put the gard on the bottom of the gown. This gard actually
has some horsehair interfacing so that’s different than horsehair braid,
is just a woven material there’s a lot of stiffness they usually use it
like men’s coats and things. I stiffened the hem of that with this, this
is just so I don’t have to wear a hoop skirt with this costume but it still
gives it a little more volume and shows off the amount of skirt that I do have
in it, and then I just sewed this gold dupioni silk on the bottom of it.
This was completely done by hand, I have now sewn the bottom
circumference of this skirt, which is over 100 inches, six times. I had a double turn
hem underneath so I sewed around that twice with each turn then I sewed the
top and the bottom of the horsehair interfacing into it by hand so that was
two more times around the circumference of the skirt, then I attached the front of the
gard by hand I did that you know like right sides together and flipped it down
and turned it to the inside and then affixed the inside portion down by hand.
That’s six times round the bottom of this, you can see maybe why I put it off
a bit, but it’s now done I think it look so gorgeous.
I bought this silk kind of sight unseen and it matches the embroidery on
the silk of the dress perfectly so I’m so happy with that. The next thing I did
was put together the skirt for the gown. I did not have any of the skirt done
last month I didn’t even have it cut out yet so I cut out the skirt it is a
lightweight wool and it’s underlined with a mid-weight linen just to give it
more body, so I cut out the skirt and the lining. It required some piecing
because was it was not wide enough for the pieces especially on the back
because as opposed to different skirts that I’ve done in the past this skirt is
cut on an angle so it’s not a rectangular start it’s actually an
angled skirt, so it required some piecing and I was the first time I’d done any
piecing before. It went okay, it wasn’t the greatest and I kind of messed up the
piecing on my linen because I totally ran out of linen and I was piecing just
like little bits and pieces of it together and it didn’t turn out great so
there’s actually some linen missing from the inside turned edge but it’s mostly
covered by where I turn the wool over so you don’t see it. Cut that out I sewed it
together the top edge was finished. On the bodice
I finished the inside of the bodice covering all the raw edges with bias
tape and things like that so I finished the bottom edge and then I was able to
sew the skirt to the bodice I added all the velvet trim to the bodice which was
really fun. This velvet trim is just a ribbon so the fact that it goes on a
curved line was an adventure to go on and I actually wound up running a
gathering stitch along the inner edge of the curve and easing that curve into
itself so it it has some bumps in it that you can see but the bumps are
really even I think that it adds a lovely texture and visual interest to
the bodice of the gown. And the skirt has a bunch of cartridge pleats in the back.
So I pleaded and attached that all together and then I was able to gard
this as well this is garded with just a green velvet. I really hate sewing with
velvet I had such a time with this. I originally was going to sew it all by
hand because I said, “Hey, I sewed all of the silk guard on by hand so I should
be able to do it with velvet too!” but velvet is just way too slippery for me
to be sewing by hand especially without pins. It wound up doing some funky things
on the inside so I really won’t show that but I did sew on the front edge by
machine with my walking foot and lots of pins and everything and sew the inside
down by hand. Really happy with that, the velvet just gives it a lot of body
to the bottom of the skirt to really help it float over the horsehair lining
of the underskirt so it all looks really pretty. The last thing that I did was
create these under sleeves for this gown. You may have seen the videos that I
posted on how I made the puffed sleeves on it but I finally made the under
sleeves as well. These will just get pinned or tied to the kirtle underneath. These sleeves were drafted following instructions from a paper written by
someone named Jose Felipe Francisco from Madrid it is a historical method of
drafting sleeves called “old thirds” it was accurate to the
Elizabethan period so I followed the instructions written up on the blog
Caitlin’sClothing.com. I found that it did make quite a nice sleeve I just
had to do a little bit of adjusting I felt it was a little tight in the elbow
and a little long in the upper arm so I just shortened it up made a couple
muslins and then I cut out the silk and they are lined with a handkerchief
weight linen just to give them a little more stiffness and also comfort close to
the body. I cut the silk pieces with a 1 inch
seam allowance and that is because this silk like many silks frays like
nobody’s business. And I had mentioned in my August plans
video that I was going to embroider by machine all of the quilting on this and
then I wound up deciding to do it by hand because, I don’t know I was a little
bit crazy I had been watching a couple embroidery tutorials and things like
that and I felt hey you know it will look really special if I do it
by hand so I knew that with the amount I would be working this fabric it would
fray something awful so what I did was cut a one inch seam allowance and I
took some fusible web trimmed it down very small and ironed the fusible web on to
the edges of that seam allowance. And what I hoped that would do was stop them
from fraying because the fusible web kind of glues everything together. Then I had
a really easy time I actually just ironed the silk onto the linen and
cut around the outside. That also served as the basting so I didn’t have to hand baste it
all together as I embroidered. I think it turned out really well the embroidery
went way faster than I thought. I thought this was gonna take me a week
or more to do and I finished it all in a couple of hours. Probably because it’s
just straight lines and running stitches but I was really happy with how that
turned out I think they look gorgeous. So I embroidered the sleeve pieces
separately and then I sewed them together with a French seam. Doing that
French seam allowed me to cut off all of the fusible web so there’s no more
fusible web left in it and it gives just a really beautiful sleeve I love that it
matches the under dress brings a lot of visual interest to the sleeves of the
garment. In Elizabethan times sleeves were a very important part of the
garment because there is so little fabric in sleeves you were able to make
the sleeves from a more expensive fabric and show off a lot of wealth and status
in the sleeves of your garment so I’m so happy with how these turn out. So that’s
it for my makes in the month of August I did go on a business trip this month so
I feel it if I had had that extra week at home I may have gotten to do more but
I did a lot of the hand sewing for this costume on that trip I think that
overall it was a great month. So let’s move on to my September plans. So for the
month of September I’m really excited to say that I have very little historical
sewing that I feel I have to get done. I am just going to adjust the way the
skirt is attached. I can’t actually remember cause was so long ago but I
think that I may have deepened the front point of this pattern when I was
drafting the bodice up and that messed up the curve of the skirt and you can
see there’s kind of like a bunch of extra fabric here so I’m just going to raise
where the front portion of the skirt is attached to give it a more
smooth look, that’ll probably take me about an hour to do. I’m also going to be
adding a little bit more trim I’ll be adding some velvet trim around the
bottom of the puff sleeves adding some trim around the waist line and probably
continuing this bold line down the front of the skirt and maybe doing an extra
line of blue velvet right over the green velvet to add a
second band on the bottom. That’s really it. For this costume I had originally
planned to do it partlet and cuffs underneath it as well. Once I finished it
and wore and everything I felt like the neck just came up too close to be able
to truly show off a partlet underneath. I might still do the cuffs but I
probably won’t. I spend all my time at the festival holding dog leashes and
I just feel like that extra piece around my wrist will really hinder me in that. I
might also start making a hat for it I do have a hat that I can wear but it’s a
straw brimmed hat and when I’m sitting down all day in a building and leaning
back I feel like that brim might get annoying to me so I might make a smaller
matching hat as well. So since I don’t have a lot of historical sewing to do
this month that means this month is going to be all about contemporary and home sewing.
So mean first things first I will be making those curtains that I talked
about in my August plans video for my kind of kitchen and dining room area. I’m
having a housewarming party in a couple weeks and I just need to get those done.
I’ll actually be starting on those shortly after I finished filming this video.
It’ll be really easy just really have to turn the top and hem the bottom. I’m also
going to be getting to the Sew House 7 patterns that I talked about in my
last video. After a bothering my sister every day
for a couple weeks she finally sent me over her measurements so I’m going to
start cutting out the burnside bibs that I’m making for her for our birthday out
of this black linen from fabrics-store.com very exciting to be doing that. I’m
also going to be starting on my birthday present for myself which the tea
house dress from Sew House 7. You’ll remember in that video I talked about
purchasing a purple and white cross dyed linen from fabrics-store.com and as I
was waiting for it to go on sale they sold out of it and I was devastated
because I love purple. That was a expensive fabric but I was willing to
spend the money on it for myself as a birthday present. My best friend helped
me out and she went searching online and found this cross dyed Merlot and white
linen from fabrics.com and so I purchased it and it is so soft and
smooth it is even more purple in person than it looked online so very happy about it
and very excited to be working with it. Recently while I was walking around
Hobby Lobby I found this little bag in the embroidery section and they had like
some tassels and patches and stuff to sew onto it as kind of a project thing
and I love the kind of coppery rose gold leather, faux leather on the bottom of
the bag so I knew that I wanted to buy it and do something with it.
I got a selection of matching embroidery floss and also some coppery beads in the
bead section. I’m not sure what I’m going to embroider on it yet I was thinking
maybe like a very geometric pattern so I have to look some up, but that’s kind
of going to be my little hand sewing project for this month to keep me occupied while
I’m watching TV and things like that. Another project that I’m thinking about
doing for this month is actually going to be more of a dying project as I was
working on unpacking I found this project that I had made about a year ago
it’s quite large so you can’t really see it properly but this is a knitted dress
and I knit this dress not by hand actually I knitted it on a
knitting machine while I was doing some training for my job and I love this
dress so much it was inspired by another dress they had sitting on a mannequin in
the showroom when I was doing my training but I knitted it out of
this wonderful soft wool yarn that they had there. I have to dye it because it
has some oil stains on it so I’m thinking I’m gonna dye it a really
lovely fall color maybe something in the mulberry family or maybe I’m thinking
also an olive green. So I’m just going to dye it. It has like this split off part of
the skirt to give it kind of like a lovely little frill and asymmetric
detailing on the side so I’m going to sew some clear elastic in to that just
to give it more support from the weight of the fabric and just finish it up
basically so that I can actually wear it. It’s a tank top dress with a turtleneck
and so I’m really excited that I found it in all my stuff and I’m really
excited to see how it turns out and give it like a little fall dress. That’s
mostly it for my sewing plans this month the only other sewing related thing that
I’m doing this month is I’m participating in the #sewphotohop on Instagram. I did make an Instagram so that I could kind of show off my
sewing. I do post a lot of little silly things on my story while I’m sewing as I
get kind of a little cooped up in my sewing room, the longer I stay there
the sillier I get. So make sure that you go follow me on instagram as well my
Instagram is msjennl10 just the same as my YouTube username and I hope
that everyone else participates in the #sewphotohop. It’s been really fun
so far seeing everyone else participating. Thanks so much for
watching! In the comments below tell me what your plans are for the month of
September and be sure to like it subscribe so you can see new videos like
this every week.